• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Husqvarna Te310 Not Idling.

Huskyyyyy

Husqvarna
A Class
I have a 2009 Husqvarna TE310. It has only done 2,800km's and been serviced regularly. Recently it has not been idling and will die when the bike goes below 1600rpm. The bike still rides exceptionally well and starts first time with ease.I have replaced the spark plug, drained the tank and put new fuel in, and also charged the battery. It seems the idle screw doesn't work to change the idle. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue or knows more about this and can help me out :)
 
Really???

It should.

Are we talking about the big nurled phillips screw over by the kick start lever?

It's not the allen key with the set nut.

Maybe something wrong with your thottle body?
 
I'll start by saying I'm no expert on Mikuni FI.

Is you bike showing signs that it's running lean (backfiring, popping on decelleration, lean bog, runs poorly when hot, runs hot...)? Grab a handfull of throttle and let go. Does it bog/backfire?

Two reasons I can think of that your idles screw is not working:
  1. You are not getting enough gas (weak fuel delivery or failing/clogged injector). In this case your combustion is limited by fuel, so more air doesn't change the RPM.
  2. Your air bypass is clogged and adjusting the screw has no effect. Remove the screw, shoot carb cleaner and clean with a q-tip.
 
A couple other potential reasons I thought of...
3. Air leak in the intake manifold/boot. You could check this by spraying the carb cleaner around the boot while it's running. If the idle picks up, you have a leak.
4. Your TPS could be let too low. Need a harness and a multitester or iBeat to test this.
 
Yes i've checked the manual and I am adjusting the correct screw, have just bought a new intake manifold as my old one had severely visible cracking.
 
Just replaced the intake manifold, seems to be running a little bit better but still doesn't idle properly and the idle screw still does not work. Will try your other methods.
 
Have tried all of your methods aside from TPS. I had the injector cleaned professionally and new filters put in. Not much difference, idle screw seems to work a little bit better, but still not fully functional. Bike still dies when RPM gets too low, when riding. It does backfire on deceleration implying it's running lean, but the spark plug is carbon fouled implying it is running rich. Very confused and not sure where to turn to next. Any more ideas?
 
I think a TPS reset will allow idle changes. I screwed up my mixture and idle once at altitude. Came back to sea level and went to George's (Uptite) reset TPS, THEN set idle and mixture. At one point at altitude (8000) I was turning idle adjust and getting nothing.

TPS is like setting timing...not exactly but is a zero point for all ecu adjustments of fuel and timing advance.

You can usually get back to close to correct adjustment by setting TPS, setting fuel to 2 1/2 turns out and idle to whatever you find in manual. I let idle go to 2000.

You need iBeat generally for this.
 
I think a TPS reset will allow idle changes. I screwed up my mixture and idle once at altitude. Came back to sea level and went to George's (Uptite) reset TPS, THEN set idle and mixture. At one point at altitude (8000) I was turning idle adjust and getting nothing.

TPS is like setting timing...not exactly but is a zero point for all ecu adjustments of fuel and timing advance.

You can usually get back to close to correct adjustment by setting TPS, setting fuel to 2 1/2 turns out and idle to whatever you find in manual. I let idle go to 2000.

You need iBeat generally for this.

As I understand it the TPS move the whole fuel curve up and down the rev range.
 
If you do not have access to an ibeat, but you have a multitester, you can use one of these (or make one if you have access to Molex connectors/tools):

http://www.tpstool.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItvqQmdm81wIVaCjTCh2YtAuuEAAYASAAEgKR5PD_BwE

You simply measure the signal to from the TPS at idle, then rotate the TPS until it is set properly and lock it down. After adjustment, you should follow the procedure to reset the TPS.

There is a procedure to "reset" the tps value without an ibeat. You disconnect the battery for 10 mins, press the starter button to discharge any stored cappacitance, reconnect the battery, then start and let the bike idle without touching the throttle for 5 mins. I believe this effectively tells the ECU to store the TPS setting as an "idle" value in the map.
 
The bike backfires on deceleration but yet the plug has fresh carbon and oily deposits. What could this be? If it's running rich what should I look for?
 
Leaking exhaust gasket at the head will cause the popping as it makes the exhaust very lean. If the pipe was removed and a new gasket not installed it will leak.

Paw Paw
 
2009 is the 4pt Mikuni injector.

Many people replace them with the 12 pt and I bet if you posted a want ad in the classifieds you could find one cheap.
 
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