• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Husky WR430 1987 - Fork Swap Question

Wow, cool stuff. Nothing beats an easy swap, with no issues at all.

Plastics, you have your choice. NOS is still available, as well as DC reproduction stuff. Quick google search will have either right at the top, with the sources in front of you, for either.
 
I recently modified my son Joe's bike with the Race Tech emulators, adaptors and fork springs.
Race Tech part number for 40mm Husqvarna forks is FEGV 3801 and adapter part number is
FPEV AD3805P.
Adapters are only $19.95 for the pair, so I thought that was cheap enough to go ahead and buy them.
Race Tech can provide Eibach springs for your 87. Use the www.RaceTech.com spring calculator to select spring rate for your weight.
Race Tech suggested this set up for 210 lb rider: emulators with the blue spring set at 2 turns of preload, .48 kg springs with 10mm preload, 15 wt fork oil, oil level set 120mm from the top, with springs out and forks collapsed.
These forks came off an 84 250 WR and are mounted on a 79 390CR.
I drilled out the damping rods as specified by Race Tech. Which meant drilling through the 2 existing holes with a 5/16" bit. Drill through 1 existing hole and straight through. Then turn the rod 90 deg and locate the center between the 2 sets of holes previously drilled and drill another pair straight through for a total of (6 x 5/16") holes.
Obviously, deburr and clean throughly before reassembly.
Unfortunetly we won't be have a chance to ride the bike with the new Race Tech set up until next weekend, but I'll definately let you guys know how it works or what adjustments we had to make.
Ron​

Update: My sons 1979 Husqvarna 390CR with 40mm WR250 forks and Race Tech springs and emulators.
For a 210lb ride,r Race Tech advised using 15 wt fork oil 120mm from the top, with 1-1/2 turns on the blue springs, in the emulators.
That set-up was horrible! The front end would dive about 6" inches into the travel way to quick and make the front end ride to low. That made the rear end loose bucking and kicking up all over the place.
He liked the stock forks way better. When I asked him what was wrong, he said "I don't know, I just don't like it".
I talked about it with Steve the Huskydoggg and he suggested since my son is a pretty big guy, we should start at 4-1/2 turns and raise the oil level to 100mm.
What a huge difference. Now the front wheel follows the ground really well and the rear end is back to working properly.
He flat landed 4th gear jump from about 7 ft in the air and used all but about 1" inch of travel. Very plush landing.
I don't know what could be done to make it any better. I highly recomended this set-up.
Can't wait to get my 77 250CR done, it will have the Race Tech set-up too.
Ron
 
Ordered new OEM fender from Husky part web site plus sourced locally 6 new pan head allen bolts for brake rotor to replace rusted crappy ones, new tire going on this weekend with some light wheel true up for one spot, new wheel bearings installed, ordered new hub seal for speedo side of hub to protect new bearings, steady ahead but all will grind to halt for a bit due to bad schedule for next 2 weeks. Will post pictures of old bike forks and new bike set up before all is done.
 
New fender mounted from Husky site - looks like nice OEM type Ascerbis fender - but got a surprise when pulling off old tire: all the nipples are VERY deeply rusted from sitting outside, rim is true but too scary to ride on with these spokes. And the rim has a small developing crack so all must be replaced which was not in the plan but no surprise when you rehab old stuff. I just want the forks and they are mint with all new seals etc after cleaning the goop out of them with a complete tear down. So sent the hub off to Buchanon's for new spoke install with new Sun rim for $$$ - no other easy way and will be riding bike for several more years so what the hell. I guess the whole front end of the bike will now shine like new so I better clean up rear of bike to match.
 
HuskyGreg said:
New fender mounted from Husky site - looks like nice OEM type Ascerbis fender - I guess the whole front end of the bike will now shine like new so I better clean up rear of bike to match.
Click to expand...

I think y'alls better put up some photos before the natives get restless.
 
Final product installed: new Sun rim and Buchanon spokes to replace the cracked OEM rim. Took out bike for a light ride on small jumps etc and it appears the bike has entered the modern era as a frankenstein of some sort with a whole new end, brake et al. Some light 6 foot jumps made for super plush landings with none on the old harshness!!! Wil dial in the comprrssion and rebound on next ride. Note the small alum plate holding the speed sensor with JB weld and zip ties while it dries.

This is a very easy conversion so go find some 92 Huskies of 125/250/360 size as I believe they all had the adjustable Showa fork set up (1993 used same forks but the adjustable compression and rebound and preload features are all REMOVED and the springs are only half length The 1993 forks look like a Walmart version so aim for 1992 forks. The most you might need to change is the bearing on the lower stem but mine fit right on my bike so maybe it was already swapped.


Wheel 1205-03.jpg Wheel 1205-03.jpg
 

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Hi guys.
Somebody have a manual for the White Power fork from 1989? Need to do some nice work on the fork.
Thank you.
 
roffe said:
Hi guys.
Somebody have a manual for the White Power fork from 1989? Need to do some nice work on the fork.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
roffe said:
Hi guys.
Somebody have a manual for the White Power fork from 1989? Need to do some nice work on the fork.
Thank you.
Click to expand...

If you have not found one yet then google and call Halls Husqvarna motorcycles in Springfield Illinois as they have about everything on hand.
 
no way! but smart move. know that you will need the wheel as well, because you will need to convert from floating rotor to solid rotor and the hubs are slightly different. its a worthwhile swap tho, worlds better brakes. the 87 has brakes that are close to modern, the only deficiency is the small rotor still.
 
justintendo said:
no way! but smart move. know that you will need the wheel as well, because you will need to convert from floating rotor to solid rotor and the hubs are slightly different. its a worthwhile swap tho, worlds better brakes. the 87 has brakes that are close to modern, the only deficiency is the small rotor still.
Click to expand...
The master cylinder probably has different bores as well.
I like the floppy disc as I call it. I think flex in the fork/axle is better accommodated. The 87-88 fork lowers differ right to left. Switch them or the whole fork and the 85-86 goes on. Easier going backwards even the single leading shoe set up can be put in there.
 
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