• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Husky WR 125-08: My TMXX carb is too short!!!

Johnnymannen

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hello everyone! Just changed carb on my sons WR125-08 from the old TMX to my factory TMXX from my 300. Works rea´lly well, but the carb is about 10mm too short on the airbox side. Does anyone have an easy solution to this? Incredible difference compared to the factory carb=)!

Johnny
 
Yes,

You have to take the 2 lower air box bolts out on the lower rear aluminum subframe. Drill the holes closer to the front so air box moves forward. In the rear up under the top 2 bolts, you might have to put a washer to shim it forward. Usually, just doing the bottom works. Use blue loctite on bottom bolts.
 
Tim is going to use a reed spacer and it should work well. I am not sure how much it will affect throttle response on a 125.
 
The 7 port cylinders like the same gasket that goes between reed block and cylinder, then same gasket between reed block/carb boot. Pulls the reeds out at about right spot. I tried other spacers at my elevations and didn't notice a difference. Just with the gasket it made a difference. If you are using the v-force 2 block , set the reed limiters on low. If you space the reeds out to far, you'll have negative results. The more tension on the reeds = more low end. If it is set on low and you want to try the high setting, make sure you use new reeds cause they can crack.
 
Good to know thanks , it is the older cylinder so I don't know if that makes a difference. I am just trying to get the bike going until I do a winter Walt bigger bore kit .
 
Good to know thanks , it is the older cylinder so I don't know if that makes a difference. I am just trying to get the bike going until I do a winter Walt bigger bore kit .

Great, keep us updated as you progress. Keep in mind, never give up trying different things. What works for me at sea level may not work in your elevations.
 
Tim,

Was doing some thinking, actually took a nap. There might be some advantages to a reed spacer up your higher elevations. Like to here how it works, etc....
 
Dartyppy,
what would the advantages be, I was just going to use the reed spacer to make the carb fit. I have the Rb mods done to my Tmxx , I have the 16-62 needle and 5 slide , what jetting specs do you suggest.
 
That is good that you have the RB mods. Are you running the older V-Force 2 reed block? It has a high and low setting on the reed limiter plates. Make sure you set them on low. The V-Force 3 block is thicker, making up some difference. The 3 block, you cannot change tension on the reeds. Since the TMXX is a short bodied carb, it might benefit you in higher elevations lenghtening it (engine side of reed block). I put a gasket in front of reed block and one between reed block and intake boot. I think it worked some or my boot could of been leaking some air. On your jetting,maybe NW Rider/Walt and them can help you and they seem to run a lot lower pilots. Then depends on oil mix/race gas. I also look at the intake boot on the reed side. I kinda clean up the rubber casting, flow wise with a dremel tool. Then sand it real smooth so you have no air/fuel drag. You can tell by looking at it where you can improve it. Hope this helps.

Thanx

Darin
 
Yes,

You have to take the 2 lower air box bolts out on the lower rear aluminum subframe. Drill the holes closer to the front so air box moves forward. In the rear up under the top 2 bolts, you might have to put a washer to shim it forward. Usually, just doing the bottom works. Use blue loctite on bottom bolts.

Ok! Sounds like an easy fix then! Thanks!

Johnny
 
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