MXRider
Husqvarna
A Class
EDIT: Discussion thread here
This is a how to for the Husky guys who want to set up their bikes for the track, and all of this I know will meet tech inspection requirements. For this you will need safety wire and safety wire pliers that can be found at any motorcycle shop or auto parts stores typically. (harbor freight sells a pretty decent kit for under $20) You will also need a drill to make the holes in the bolts, but I recommend using a drill press for cleaner results.
When I drill out the head of a bolt, I drill 3 holes per head. (1 every other flat spot on the hex head) some only do 1 or 2, but I find 3 makes it very easy to always find a good line to fit safety wire after removing and replacing a bolt when you need to do an oil change.
For this, you will need to buy a few things in order to properly safety wire the bike. You will need 2 of these drain plugs found here. http://7602racing.com/prod_husky_oil_bolts.php I will get into why I dont recommend all 3 later on. Order the front left drain plug, and the bottom magnetic drain bolt.
First we are gonna start with the oil filter cap. Drill your holes in the bolts as you see fit, and route the wiring like this. Always remember to have the wire pulling the bolt tight, otherwise it is wrong.
Next is the oil fill cap and overflow. (note that older Husky's dont have this bottle)
Here is the drain plugs that hold the oil screens. Earlier I said I did not recommend the oil plate from 7602 racing, and the reason is because the 2 countersunk hex bolts that hold the plate on can not be safety wired. Now Im not saying you will for sure fail if you run that part, however technically its not legal and I would rather not run into that issue from a picky inspector. So I just used the OEM plate and bolts and wired them like the oil filter cap.
Here is the bottom drain plug. I ran the wire to the closest thing I could find. This is completely covered up by the skid plate once reinstalled.
Now we come to the front brake caliper. This isnt a requirement everywhere, but in my opinion its a very good idea.
Another thing that should be done is securing the master link clip. For this I use RTV silicone gasket material, and it holds up very well. Always install the clip so that the open end is on the trailing end of the clip during forward chain motion. Otherwise you risk the clip falling off when it goes through a chain guide. Tip: install the clip on the inside of the chain instead of the outside to help with the frame rub issues.
And thats pretty much it, you should be 100% legal for pretty much any trackday organization or racing group. If anyone wants to add to this or feels I messed up somewhere, please let me know.
This is a how to for the Husky guys who want to set up their bikes for the track, and all of this I know will meet tech inspection requirements. For this you will need safety wire and safety wire pliers that can be found at any motorcycle shop or auto parts stores typically. (harbor freight sells a pretty decent kit for under $20) You will also need a drill to make the holes in the bolts, but I recommend using a drill press for cleaner results.
When I drill out the head of a bolt, I drill 3 holes per head. (1 every other flat spot on the hex head) some only do 1 or 2, but I find 3 makes it very easy to always find a good line to fit safety wire after removing and replacing a bolt when you need to do an oil change.
For this, you will need to buy a few things in order to properly safety wire the bike. You will need 2 of these drain plugs found here. http://7602racing.com/prod_husky_oil_bolts.php I will get into why I dont recommend all 3 later on. Order the front left drain plug, and the bottom magnetic drain bolt.
First we are gonna start with the oil filter cap. Drill your holes in the bolts as you see fit, and route the wiring like this. Always remember to have the wire pulling the bolt tight, otherwise it is wrong.
Next is the oil fill cap and overflow. (note that older Husky's dont have this bottle)
Here is the drain plugs that hold the oil screens. Earlier I said I did not recommend the oil plate from 7602 racing, and the reason is because the 2 countersunk hex bolts that hold the plate on can not be safety wired. Now Im not saying you will for sure fail if you run that part, however technically its not legal and I would rather not run into that issue from a picky inspector. So I just used the OEM plate and bolts and wired them like the oil filter cap.
Here is the bottom drain plug. I ran the wire to the closest thing I could find. This is completely covered up by the skid plate once reinstalled.
Now we come to the front brake caliper. This isnt a requirement everywhere, but in my opinion its a very good idea.
Another thing that should be done is securing the master link clip. For this I use RTV silicone gasket material, and it holds up very well. Always install the clip so that the open end is on the trailing end of the clip during forward chain motion. Otherwise you risk the clip falling off when it goes through a chain guide. Tip: install the clip on the inside of the chain instead of the outside to help with the frame rub issues.
And thats pretty much it, you should be 100% legal for pretty much any trackday organization or racing group. If anyone wants to add to this or feels I messed up somewhere, please let me know.