• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

How to check valves on a 2006 4stroke - video

All the 250/450/510 huskys are the same as in Coffee's video. The 610 is a completely different animal.
 
Although maybe not true in all cases. When you pick up a new bike.(Husky)

It will come with a very in depth "Owners manual" Explaining all.:thumbsup:

Any where from "How to remove your seat, to checking your crankshaft play with a dial indicator.

And if you really like to wrench you could always get a "Shop Manual" from your local dealer. They come in a CD format.

The video on here along with your Owners manual for reference is priceless.
 
Quick question, I want to check/adjust my valves but don't want to take the time to take off my gas tank because I have to remove the steering dampener clamp and just don't feel like it. My question is, do I really need it removed? Can't I just deal with the reduced working space and still get to my valves for checking/adjusting?
 
Probably possible on the TE 250. I don't think George removes the tank to do it......unless he's doing other stuff too.

There's a lot more room between the valve cover and tank on the 250 over the 450 or 510.
 
I highly recommend taking the tank off if you are going to make an instructional video about checking the valves, otherwise it would be harder to get the video. :p


Otherwise it is probably not a necessary step on a 250.
 
HuskyDude;27331 said:
Although maybe not true in all cases. When you pick up a new bike.(Husky)

It will come with a very in depth "Owners manual" Explaining all.:thumbsup:

Any where from "How to remove your seat, to checking your crankshaft play with a dial indicator.

And if you really like to wrench you could always get a "Shop Manual" from your local dealer. They come in a CD format.

The video on here along with your Owners manual for reference is priceless.

my owners manual has nothing its ueseless only tells you bout all the controlls and wat liquids it needs to run on :(
 
My exhaust shims are 2.25 and they were pretty tight. What is the next size of shim that I should get. Thanks
 
jwdirt;58588 said:
My exhaust shims are 2.25 and they were pretty tight. What is the next size of shim that I should get. Thanks

I believe they come in 0.05 mm increments so the next size would be 2.20, right?

That means if you are on the edge of meeting spec because they are too tight, then you go to the next size, you will be on the edge of being too loose.
 
sorry for being ignorant but are these to be checked at TDC on all shims ? if so, whats the spec/tolerances for them.. mine doesnt seem to rattle and runs perfect but just for future ref.... also, does the husky have any signs if needing done ? rattling or running issues ? my old xr rattled when it needed adjusting..
 
rabskyline;58641 said:
sorry for being ignorant but are these to be checked at TDC on all shims ? if so, whats the spec/tolerances for them.. mine doesnt seem to rattle and runs perfect but just for future ref.... also, does the husky have any signs if needing done ? rattling or running issues ? my old xr rattled when it needed adjusting..

You should definitely check your valves. Yes TDC with lobes (sorta) pointing towards each other slightly and up. The specs are in the manual I don't recall them at the moment. Mine (2006) were really tight from the factory.
 
Thanks for the quick response coffee so I'm going to bug you again. I picked up some 2.2 shims and they are still to tight could it be possible that I need to go to 2.15 or have I messed something up. I am 99% sure I am at TDC it's really not that difficult white mark lined up and lobes kind of pointing in. I checked my valves at 35hrs and they were snug but still within spec. I now have 50hrs could they have tightened up that much?
 
jwdirt;58842 said:
Thanks for the quick response coffee so I'm going to bug you again. I picked up some 2.2 shims and they are still to tight could it be possible that I need to go to 2.15 or have I messed something up. I am 99% sure I am at TDC it's really not that difficult white mark lined up and lobes kind of pointing in. I checked my valves at 35hrs and they were snug but still within spec. I now have 50hrs could they have tightened up that much?

No good deed goes unpunished :lol:

My valves, and almost everyone else's valves do not move. Not like other brands.

My educated guess would be that you are not at the correct mark. There are a few marks on mine. Point the lobes up, symmetrically towards each other - there should be a mark there. You need to measure when all 4 valves are as closed as possible at the same time i.e. the most clearance

You should be able to get some feeler gauge in there to calculate the size shim to go to. :)
 
Coffee;58849 said:
No good deed goes unpunished

Good one!

So I guess it was the 1% of time when I was wrong. I apparently didn't have it at TDC and now when I put the original shims back in and actually put it at TDC everything is fine. Thanks.
 
Coffee;58849 said:
You need to measure when all 4 valves are as open as possible at the same time.


That should be "closed as possible", just don't want to confuse people. :)


Later,
 
jwdirt;58901 said:
Good one!

So I guess it was the 1% of time when I was wrong. I apparently didn't have it at TDC and now when I put the original shims back in and actually put it at TDC everything is fine. Thanks.
That has bitten me more than once!

jmetteer;58947 said:
That should be "closed as possible", just don't want to confuse people. :)


Later,

Got it, it has been changed. That is what I get for not being 'with it' when making posts.
 
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