• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

How to change the counter shaft sprocket

HUSKYnXJnWI;128695 said:
on my ktm (same set up) I'd just locked the back brake and loosened the bolt holding the Counter sprocket... was easy every time [like NoControl said] but I did it by myself- I'd use my foot on the rear brake and work from the right side of the bike hanging over the seat and sometimes just used a tie down strap instead.

I do like the C-clip on my 09te450-
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+1 This is how I used to do it on my old DRZ; hold down brake with right foot and lean over bike with an impact wrench.
I don't know about the new huskies, but on the DRZ's, leaving the bike in gear could cause the primary nut to back off when you zapped the CS nut with an impact.
You can also just put a block of wood thru the spokes on top of the swingarm to hold the rear wheel.
 
ray_ray off is counterclock, like a normal bolt,and it's a -itch without an impact, for some reason it was the hardest sprocket nut i have ever gotten off, and i've been riding for 41 years.
 
rubenguallar;128718 said:
Thanks again for all the good advice. After all I read another thread in this site last night that made me think I don't have the right sprocket. I ordered mine from motosportz but I didn't specify I needed for the new xlite motor and the Moose sprocket I got I think it's for older husky models...so before I try removing the stock one I will contact Motorsportz on Monday to find out if they shipped me the sprocket for the new xlite engine or not...I was so excited to see the difference of the 12T out today but I guess I'll have to wait until next weekend. Thanks again.
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Where in Jersey are you? I have an impact and have also taken some tough ones off just by using a block of wood to keep the rear tire from moving. I'm in Vineland...let me know if I can help.
 
gandalf;128811 said:
Where in Jersey are you? I have an impact and have also taken some tough ones off just by using a block of wood to keep the rear tire from moving. I'm in Vineland...let me know if I can help.
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Unfortunately I live in the total opposite side in Northern NJ (bergen county). Thanks for the offer though!
 
John47;128782 said:
ray_ray off is counterclock, like a normal bolt,and it's a -itch without an impact, for some reason it was the hardest sprocket nut i have ever gotten off, and i've been riding for 41 years.
Click to expand...

cool ... I was thinking they might have reversed the threads to help keep the nut tight while riding ...

I've found other nuts on my bike very hard to remove the first time also ... I guess this is better than having loose ones ....
 
Probably not a hard and fast rule.

BUT

Chain on left side of bike countershaft has right hand threads.

Chain on right side of bike countershaft has left hand threads.

That keeps the nut tight while riding.
 
I road my 510 with the 12 tooth CS and what a difference it made! Low speed riding was much easier, not needing to feather the clutch lever as often. Mid-speed was improved too, the bike was more in the power band. On pavement it tended to rev-out still earlier, but the bike has a close ratio tranny. This is one advantage the EXC bikes have over the TEs.
 
Here's a trick i discovered myself stuck in the bush. Remove guard. Put a 22m ring spanner over the nut, facing up so that the other end of it is wedged against the frame. It is a normal thread. Bike in neutral. Lift rear wheel or lay the bike over and using your hands on the rear wheel, turn the wheel backwards. The chain will turn your CS sprocket and transmission backwards, your spanner and nut stay still, therefore your nut will unscrew! You can reverse the process for doing it up.
 
Matt Shield said:
Here's a trick i discovered myself stuck in the bush. Remove guard. Put a 22m ring spanner over the nut, facing up so that the other end of it is wedged against the frame. It is a normal thread. Bike in neutral. Lift rear wheel or lay the bike over and using your hands on the rear wheel, turn the wheel backwards. The chain will turn your CS sprocket and transmission backwards, your spanner and nut stay still, therefore your nut will unscrew! You can reverse the process for doing it up.
Click to expand...
Old post, I know, but just had to award you the internet for it.

Genius.
 
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