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How to change the counter shaft sprocket

Runner

Runner

Husqvarna
AA Class
At the risk of revealing myself as a noob, what are the steps to changing the CS sprocket? Does it matter which surface is mounted against the engine? I'd rather not r/r the master link keeper as each time I service the chain the keeper gets abused.

I'm putting a 13 tooth on my carb'ed TE-510.:excuseme:

Thank in advance.
 
Loosen chain, remove front sprocket cover, remove circlip holding front sprocket on. Replace, Shoulder side of sprocket goes towards engine. Readjust chain. I can use a 15 and 13 with same chain length.
 
Runner;125353 said:
At the risk of revealing myself as a noob, what are the steps to changing the CS sprocket? Does it matter which surface is mounted against the engine? I'd rather not r/r the master link keeper as each time I service the chain the keeper gets abused.

I'm putting a 13 tooth on my carb'ed TE-510.:excuseme:

Thank in advance.
Click to expand...

there is a step on the CS sprocket it faces inside....if your uncertain look at the impression of the C clip left on the old sprocket

you will have extra slack in the chain if your sprocket is smaller...but you wont need to pull the masterlink...just readjust your chain
 
This is the information I needed, I prefer not to pull the master link, just adjust the chain afterward. Thanks!
 
I am trying to replace the cs sprocket on my 2010 TE250 and I am having issues. There only appears to be the nut and a washer but when I try to lose the nut the sprocket obviously spins not allowing me to losen the nut....what am I doing wrong? I am trying to go out riding tomorrow and I am trying to put in a new 12 tooth sprocket (from the 13 stock)....

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Its gotta be held some how ..Does it have left handed threads? A snap ring works well there ... Not sure why they would what to change to a threaded shaft ...

Just apply steady pressure ... and report back on the 12T setup...
 
x-lite engines went to threaded cs. An impact wrench works well to break it free. Put the bike in 6th gear to hold. I used a small piece of lumber in the spokes to hold the wheel when doing the work alone. Use torque wrench to reinstall.
 
It's definitely not as easy to swap cs's now. One thing that is better about it is the elimination of any free play on the shaft. I think that was more of an issue with non-cush drive TE's being ridden on the hardball a lot. Some folks were noticing some significant wear on their countershaft teeth due to the small amount of "float" the sprocket had with just a c-clip holding it on.
 
maybe it is better ... I'd just hate to see some dirty threads on that shaft when starting removin' it ...
 
Thanks for the good feedback. What do you think are my chances of getting the nut out without using an impact wrench as I don't own one....
 
DO NOT put the bike in gear while removing/tightening the CS nut, ESPECIALLY with an impact, bad for the gears. Keep the chain on and have a buddy stomp on the rear brake with the trans in neutral, that will hold it.
 
I've not removed mine on the 250 yet. My experience was on my KLX 300. I could not remove it with a breaker bar and socket. Matter of fact, I ended up applying a little propane torch heat to the nut and then using my newly purchased air impact wrench to finally get it off the 1st time. I don't know how these husky's are yet. You may be able to coax it off, no problem. Good luck!
 
It should come off without an impact ...

Get the wheel held, clean the threads as good as possible with a wire brush \ tooth brush, apply wd40 ... apply constant pressure when loosing ...

Is it right or left handed threads? ...
 
Nocontrol's method sounds much safer and definitely makes more sense. All I can say is I got my method from the Kawasaki section on the "other" site many years ago. The internet is a powerful drug:busted:
 
Older WR's all had a bolt and washer to secure the CSS. Always thought it was a solid conection and good idea until I snapped the head off the bolt on a ride on my WR360. :eek: The little plastic slotted cover caught the bolt head and kept the sprocket on. :excuseme: Babied it 10 miles out to the truck and it never came completely off. :thumbsup: Mostly all downhill so I rode most of it dead engine. Bottom line is replace the bolt before it is 10 years old even if it looks good.
 
on my ktm (same set up) I'd just locked the back brake and loosened the bolt holding the Counter sprocket... was easy every time [like NoControl said] but I did it by myself- I'd use my foot on the rear brake and work from the right side of the bike hanging over the seat and sometimes just used a tie down strap instead.

I do like the C-clip on my 09te450-
 
Thanks again for all the good advice. After all I read another thread in this site last night that made me think I don't have the right sprocket. I ordered mine from motosportz but I didn't specify I needed for the new xlite motor and the Moose sprocket I got I think it's for older husky models...so before I try removing the stock one I will contact Motorsportz on Monday to find out if they shipped me the sprocket for the new xlite engine or not...I was so excited to see the difference of the 12T out today but I guess I'll have to wait until next weekend. Thanks again.
 
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