how to bleed a clutch slave

[MChammer]

I have an 08 TE300 and this summer at about 2,700 miles, I lost my clutch - the piston had worn the slave cylinder wall I've since read about. I had the dealer replace the cylinder and piston with Husky factory stuff and it's working great. Since reading all the posts, I sent for one of the 7602 racing pistons and wanted to install it before the same thing happens next year, but I'm getting feedback from the dealer that bleeding these clutches is tricky stuff...something about you need a special tool and bleed from the slave cylinder up to the reservoir. I've read many posts where it sounds like a snap, but no one's ever given detailed instructions / pictures on how to do it. I'm no motorcycle shop tech, but do all my own work on my cars and have bled brakes plenty of times. Any help?

 

[Motosportz]

I have an 08 TE300 and this summer at about 2,700 miles, I lost my clutch - the piston had worn the slave cylinder wall I've since read about. I had the dealer replace the cylinder and piston with Husky factory stuff and it's working great. Since reading all the posts, I sent for one of the 7602 racing pistons and wanted to install it before the same thing happens next year, but I'm getting feedback from the dealer that bleeding these clutches is tricky stuff...something about you need a special tool and bleed from the slave cylinder up to the reservoir. I've read many posts where it sounds like a snap, but no one's ever given detailed instructions / pictures on how to do it. I'm no motorcycle shop tech, but do all my own work on my cars and have bled brakes plenty of times. Any help?

When i did it on my 04 TE450 it was as simple as getting a large syringe and pushing the oil from the slave up. then i just bled it like a brake.

 

[Colo moto]

MC

It's pretty easy. Pull the slave cylinder. There is a snap ring holding the piston in that needs to be removed. After you do that, pull out the stock piston, and replace it with ours. Re insert the snap ring. Face the slave cylinder with the piston pointing down and give it a few light taps with a screwdriver handle to get the air out of the pocket that holds the spring in the piston. (this will be more clear when you take it apart) Bolt the slave cyclinder back on the engine. Bleed the system. I prefer to use a syringe and back bleed it, its faster and works better.

For the back bleeding, get a good size syringe, 20cc will do and some tubing that will fit over the nipple on the slave cylinder. Attach the tubing to the syringe and fill the syringe and tubing with mineral oil. Tap it to get out any bubbles. When all the bubbles are out, attach the tubing to the nipple. Crack the nipple open, and push the fluid in. If you are carefull not to get air in the system, it shouldn't need any bleeding. You should be good to go.

Don't pull the clutch lever when you have the slave cylinder off the bike. You can break the groove that the snap ring sets in.

 

[MChammer]

Thanks for all the help guys - I'll print this out so I have it handy for when I tackle the project.

 

[STmatt]

And after you do the install proceedure and you find the clutch lever is very hard to pull......stop right there. You don't want to damage a $140 clutch slave assembly like this one.

 

[krieg]

I did my 7602 piston change out using the procedure specified in Clay's post with no issues. It was messy to say the least, but it was relatively easy using the "bottom up" method with a syringe and tubing. That was 2 months ago. Been working great ever since.

Sounds like a dealer wants to make some service $$$.

 

[rabskyline]

i bled my clutch from the top and as long as you keep fluid up and bleed it like any other fluid brake with the 8mm spanner, it will be fine but i watched a mate bleed his ktm 525 in the bush with a syringe bottom up and seemed quicker ad easier...and no mess at all ? small rag to catch oil under lever reservoir and away you go !

 

[MChammer]

Colo Moto - I finally did the piston swap with your technique today. All went well until I tried to force the fluid into the bleed nipple with the syringe and nothing budged. I surmised that I had to take the cover off the clutch reservoir so I did, and after a little oil cleanup, pushed the oil in with no problem. After I stopped seeing bubbles come out at the top, I forced in a little more just to be safe and closed the nipple, removed my syringe/tube, filled the upper reservoir to the proper level and put the cap back on (more mess). The clutch pull seems slightly more difficult than before - is this normal or did I do something wrong? I didn't run mineral oil around your rubber seal before I installed it (like you do on an oil filter rubber seal) - could that be the problem or is this new feel normal? I haven't run the bike to see if it's performing normally because I have the shock linkage apart and am awaiting a new bearing.

 

[Colo moto]

MChammer,

Yeah, the stiff feel is normal for the first few hours. Mine was that way, and several other customers have told me that theirs were also stiff for the first hour or two. Mine now feels noticeably lighter than clutches without our clutch piston when you pull them back to back.