• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

How much impellor play. Is this my problem?

duggoey

duggoey

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Two questions- have had the overflow bottle spit on my boot for a few months now and just noticed some coolant in the oil. Suspected a head gasket leak so did a leak down test, held pressure well so no probs with rings or gaskets.

I am changing the water pump seal, because of the above and also I see a small amount of oily water coming from the weap hole under the water pump. Has this fixed the issue for others?

How much play should there be between the shaft and the impeller. I can rotate the impellor a good 10 degrees on the shaft when the locking nut is undone, what is the normal tolerance?
 
10 degrees is not much, I don't remember how much mine has, but I feel like it was pretty tight on the shaft.

Be sure and bungee your cam gears up to try and maintain your cam timing when you remove the water pump seal housing, or else, put some marks on the left side of the cam gears.

My thoughts personally, is that transfer of oil/water back and forth at the water pump seal is not gonna result in over heating.


trig_degrees.gif
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
10 degrees is not much, I don't remember how much mine has, but I feel like it was pretty tight on the shaft.

Be sure and bungee your cam gears up to try and maintain your cam timing when you remove the water pump seal housing, or else, put some marks on the left side of the cam gears.

My thoughts personally, is that transfer of oil/water back and forth at the water pump seal is not gonna result in over heating.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I haven't checked the timing, I've actually left the valve cover on. I didnt see the cam chain and gear drop into the motor, I'm hoping to just reinsert the shaft without anything spinning. And the play between impellor and shaft is probably more like 20º
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
Did you take the water pump shaft out? And the valve cover is on and you can't see the camshafts?
Click to expand...
Yes, holding the gear in place with a pin. It sounds like a bad idea I know, if it drops when I go to reinsert the shaft I am in trouble. I am being lazy as the valve cover tappings for the head bolts are recoiled so I avoid opening it when I can.
 
If you haven't removed the ACCT, getting the saft back in is gonna be real hard, impossible if the ACCT spring pushes in a click or 2.

If the main cam drive gear falls down 1/2 an inch, the cams will swing down from the weight of the lobes, and your cam timing will be so far off, you might bend a valve. You should pull the spark plug and turn it over real slow when it's all back together.
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
If you haven't removed the ACCT, getting the saft back in is gonna be real hard, impossible if the ACCT spring pushes in a click or 2.

If the main cam drive gear falls down 1/2 an inch, the cams will swing down from the weight of the lobes, and your cam timing will be so far off, you might bend a valve. You should pull the spark plug and turn it over real slow when it's all back together.
Click to expand...
Agreed. I will see how it goes when I reinsert. If I have to find the timing again that's what I will do.
 
I just found my impeller with about the same amount of play while rebuilding the top end, I put in a new high performance water pump, I personally would worry the play would get worse. It seems (on mine) the flat spot in the impeller that keeps it from spinning was wearing, as long as your shaft is good all it would take is a new impeller or just upgrade to the high performance pump altogether, $50 for a little peace of mind.
 
I have the new seal. What is the best way to remove the old one without destroying it so I can inspect it properly?
 
The inside of the old seal looked pretty worn, nothing obvious but it did look oil stained on both ends contacting the prop shaft. It lost all of its elasticity and was also very hard whereas the new one is more springy and softer.

I couldn't find my hydraulic press (i.e. I don't have one) so I just had to make one.
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Seal
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