• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

How I will build my own oil cooler for my TE511

Rearwheelin

Rearwheelin

Husqvarna
Pro Class
So there is the hand crafted machined oil filter cover that nobody can buy that you need in order to connect a oil cooler. If you haven't seen that mod then a brief search of the forum should turn it up..

I started thinking after looking at the 449/511 clutch cover and thought , " I really need to take that off and have a look at how the oil flows inside :thinking: ". My first hope was that crap loads of oil goes into the cover. :notworthy: So I left all 1300cc of oil in the engine and started unbolting :D With the clutch cover off now I wanted to see what kind of oil flow rate goes into the clutch with the bike straight up and down. Stood the bike up and the oil poored out faster than you can empty a quart of oil... Cool this is what I wanted, direct access to the oil bath. Why the clutch cover ? Because the oil that is swirly around in there will force its way out of a hole with pressure behind it when I drill a hole and weld a hose bung to it :banana:

I plan to weld some aluminum tubing to my skid plate and plumb my oil line coming from the clutch cover to it.. The skid plate is perfect for absorbing heat out of the oil and so is what I will use it for :thumbsup:



This pic is just a general "Get the picture?"pic...


 
Yes, it poors in there and the clutch claps it around. The oil will re-enter threw the cap and poor back into the main oil pool that the oil pump pulls from. It won't starve the clutch of oil.
 
That is good! If this oil cooler is workable, that should give the added volume of oil you all seem
To want, and keep it cooler.
 
James Patton said:
That is good! If this oil cooler is workable, that should give the added volume of oil you all seem
To want, and keep it cooler.
Click to expand...
I just need to figure the best way to prep the cover for my welder and the series of oil tubes I'm going to weld on the inside of the skid plate. The oil volume should bump from 1150 to 1200cc or so. Plus the extra 100cc for doing the breather mods so around 1300cc total. Depending on the head pressure the clutch cover produces I might run one of my cans inline to bump oil volume another 150cc
 
Radar said:
I would think that the skid plates main job (kissing rocks) would disqualify it as an oil cooler. Unless you want oily rocks.
Click to expand...
That's what you think. The lines will be way better protected than a conventional oil cooler. My skid plate has seen some really harsh treatment and the aluminum tubing will be thick and welded to key areas .
 
K.Forte' said:
Don't do it,,put it behind the radiator..Just a thought. :naughty:
Click to expand...
I have a cooling fan on each radiator so there is no room there. Soon as I have a test of out output I will get more serious about the cooler. If the skid plate takes a big impact and bends so will the aluminum heat sink pipe , there might be several pieces welded in different locations on the skidy.
 
IMHO, not a drop of oil will be moved from the point of origin to the point of return to sump. The force from the oil spinning off the clutch basket simply is not enough, especially with the point of origin being lower than the point of return, AND an even lower point on the cooler portion.
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
IMHO, not a drop of oil will be moved from the point of origin to the point of return to sump. The force from the oil spinning off the clutch basket simply is not enough, especially with the point of origin being lower than the point of return, AND an even lower point on the cooler portion.
Click to expand...
It will only take less than a half of psi to move oil threw the system . Just check in time to time and we will see who is right. :)
 
I agree with olderhuskyrider, how is there even half a psi going into the pipe you weld on? all this will do is create extra oil capacity. You don't even have gravity on your side, if you can pick up higher and return lower that may work. Even then you need pump pressure to flow through any kind of cooler. How about an electric pump?
Just my two cents.
 
stushusky said:
I agree with olderhuskyrider, how is there even half a psi going into the pipe you weld on? all this will do is create extra oil capacity. You don't even have gravity on your side, if you can pick up higher and return lower that may work. Even then you need pump pressure to flow through any kind of cooler. How about an electric pump?
Just my two cents.
Click to expand...

Agree. Thats not going to flow oil. Gravity would not be enough even if setup that way (which it is not) and the internal crank case pressure is equalized at both your intake and outlet side. Not going to flow anything IMHO. All il coolers I have seen are attached to the oil pump pressure at some point.
 
I like your concept and i'm interested to see where you go with it. I think there are some details that need to be worked out, because you can't beat physics. Two things I think you might consider are, instead of a simple pipe welded to the clutch case, your cooler inlet needs to be more like a large, flat funnel shape in order to collect a larger volume of oil. This will help with flow because there will be more oil volume/weight to help push it through. I also think you might consider placing your tubing array toward the front of your skid pan rather than the bottom, so that you get some gravity assist. You could then route your return into an oil drain or tapping into a suction/scavenge filter cap (if the 511 has one). I think you're going to spend a lot of time reshaping your "slinger pickup" so that you get the most action out of it.

I've considered tapping into the external oil line and using an orifice disc on the cooler inlet (so as not to starve the top end) and returning back to the oil filter cavity.
 
The clutch on the 449/511 has full access to the engines oil reserves. There is a 360 degree opening behind the basket and two oil spill ways at the bottom. When oil goes into the clutch area its like waking into a tornado .

The clutch covers inner inside diameter is smaller than the inner outside diameter . All oil coming in is getting the centrifugal treatment and gets forced outward to the covers walls and stays there swirling around the cover . Since to covers I.D. is largest closest to the engine case the oil in centrifugal suspension will be loaded up most there .

As oil pores in and hits the clutch there will be a force to the oil outward . As oil escapes threw the perforation for the cooler it will get replaced just as fast by the engines oil reserves . My theory is there are a few pound of pressure to be had out of the clutch basket on the 449/511. A water tank holding 10 feet of water will produce 5 psi at the tanks bottom. I don't know how many rpm's a tornado spins but I'm willing to guess its less than the 511.


If there was a tropical rain downfall and the temps of the water drops where 98.7 F what do you feel hitting your face ? the water drops or the pressure a drop of water creates ? There is no doubt a hole in the basket will produce oil . The question is how much :oldman:


I will weld my pipe in the spot I think will be the best and it will move oil out. I can take my Dremmel tool and cut little mini canals that all lead to the hole. A round hole with a pipe is simple and if it works good enough than I don't need to go any further with the clutch cover. :thumbsup:
 
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that you're wrong. Just pointing out that a funnel shaped collection point will collect more fluid, and like a water monitor will also help increase flow pressure. Perhaps not by much, but perhaps not much might be what it takes to get it from "kind of working" to "fully successful." It would certainly be a bit more involved in terms of fabrication. Again I like your concept and I'm interested to see how it goes. :)
 
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