FE/FC How far on "Rider Sag" settings on FE 501 ???

[decooney]

Works great now.

update: re-sprung the shock and forks. Set sag, done. Not only is it more plush, it handles well. Leaving the factory valving alone.

 

[gregdee]

Where are people purchasing their springs and what are you paying for them?

 

[North50]

Where are people purchasing their springs and what are you paying for them?

Yes, where are you guys getting the springs? Also is there an option beyond 60 rear and 4.6 front? I'm 235lbs and close to 260lbs gladiator style.

 

[Chums]

Yes, where are you guys getting the springs? Also is there an option beyond 60 rear and 4.6 front? I'm 235lbs and close to 260lbs gladiator style.

Check out my classified on hear, got forks springs that'll work for 235lbs, just saying...

 

[decooney]

Update;

my buddy just got a new 501S. We both weigh between 194-200lbs. His bike has stock springs, mine has the new 6.0kg shock spring and the 4.6N/mm forks springs for a 200lbs rider.

We traded back and forth three times to compare on some really rough and choppy hardpan stuff with clickers set the same to "comfort" setting.

A noticeable improvement with the right springs in the bike for the rider weight. Much smoother, more plush, not harsh - even with stock valving.

Pleasantly surprised. I normally hand my suspension over to a pro to re-revalve and re-spring it for me, but this time all I had to do is change the springs myself. Works just fine.

Worth every penny.

 

[octagon pilot]

I'm in a similar boat...I weigh 150, plus gear, which fortunately puts me proper weight for the stock springs, front and rear. Sag is set to 108mm in the rear.

After about 5 hrs of break in, I spent a couple hours on a short practice loop working with fork clicker settings and actually ended up with the compression clicker quite a bit softer and wound up on a much faster rebound clicker setting. I am happy with compliance, deflection and bottoming resistance on the choppy loop I was on.

Rear shock clicker setting will be next up, and the main thing I want try is to stiffen the HS comp and slow down the rebound setting.

I think the stock fork valving is going to be fine for my single track and desert riding. Some of the posts about the 4CS had me a little curious, and I have yet to try them out at higher speed desert stuff...so far, so good though.

Update;

my buddy just got a new 501S. We both weigh between 194-200lbs. His bike has stock springs, mine has the new 6.0kg shock spring and the 4.6N/mm forks springs for a 200lbs rider.

We traded back and forth three times to compare on some really rough and choppy hardpan stuff with clickers set the same to "comfort" setting.

A noticeable improvement with the right springs in the bike for the rider weight. Much smoother, more plush, not harsh - even with stock valving.

Pleasantly surprised. I normally hand my suspension over to a pro to re-revalve and re-spring it for me, but this time all I had to do is change the springs myself. Works just fine.

Worth every penny.

 

[Big Timmy]

Jeff Slavens at "Jeff Slavens Racing" has about the largest stock of rear springs in the Country all American made. Not Chinese crap. Usually in stock in 3 different colors. I got a 6.4 KG spring from him for my FE501 and they are right at $100.00 apiece. It took all of about 2 days. Progressive wound springs for PDS systems are a bit more. I got my Progressive 6.2-8.0 spring for my WP Trax shock which is a PDS set up for my BMW G450X from him as well. A progressive wound spring is not offered for the stock BMWs Ohlins shock. Which was revalved and now is just sitting on the shelf.

He can get the fork springs, I'm sure for less than others as well. Again all American made and spring rates are always tested for accuracy. He is a KTM suspension specialist and has only posted about 5000 YouTube videos on many subjects for this subject and other things for this kind of servicing.

300 2 Stroke "Mule" builds are also his specialty. He has no "Proprietary secrets" on his tricks of the trade and is more than happy to help you out and make videos explaining these subjects from start to finish on public access video on YouTube.

He's also the one who usually answers the phone directly when you call so you get the answers you need directly from his source of knowledge. His shop is in Colorado.

Of course being a KTM guy he also does the new Huskys as well and is very respected in the industry. A true off road guy.

I've been a very happy customer of his for quite awhile now. With no song and dance and no secret squirrel, sorry that's proprietary to our company, I'm better than you are and smarter too sales pitch either. He has come up with some neat and cool stuff and is very humble. Doesn't look at these products like they are his personal inventions either.

He is a dealer for many other brand products as well and has a much larger inventory than many others in fact, Just bought a Rubber Mount BRP Submount and Scotts stabilizer from him last evening for my new FE501.

You can call him up at:

Jeff Slavens Racing
925 West Cucharras Street
Colorado Springs CO. 80905
719-475-2624

Or just go to Slavensracing.com

 

[gregdee]

Where are people purchasing their springs and what are you paying for them?

I ended up getting mine from Chip@Munn Racing. He had an Easter special which was a pretty good deal. But if Slavens is selling for around $100 a pop then that would be cheaper. Anyway, will be installing tomorrow and then testing will ensue. I am 170# but with full gear, pack, and tools the total "rider weight" came in at 207#. I was surprised to say the least. Perhaps I should work on minimizing my load but I am not really willing to compromise on protective gear and tools - well - when you need 'em, you need 'em.

 

[Big Timmy]

I totally agree on that I wear and carry in excess of about 38 lbs, with my hydration pack added to everything else.

"Slavens" sells his progressive wound rear springs used for a lot of PDS shock mounted applications, for what most others sell there less expensive to manufacture straight wound springs.

His progressive wound springs are only like $125.00

He has a huge selection in 3 colors too.

 

[reveille]

I got my fork springs from Slavens and the shock spring from MXTECH.

 

[gregdee]

Got the rear done. It was not as simple as I expected so here are a couple of points for those who also try doing this on their own.

• Manual states to pull the shock down then pull out the header. What I finally ended up doing was tying up the rear wheel to the rear fender using a bungee cord to keep it up and out of the way. This allowed me to get the shock down far enough to get the header out. Without doing this the header could not get around the reservoir cartridge on the shock.
• Without reading onto the next page I missed the fact that the shock comes out in the upwards direction next to the air box. It obviously doesn't fit going down but this stumped me for a moment.

Still have not managed to reconnect the right side spring between the header and exhaust port. I will try to find a spring tool as there is not much room in that spot to get enough leverage using a screwdriver or similar.

 

[gregdee]

For the fork spring swap, seems as though the fork oil has to be drained to remove a cartridge from the bottom of the fork. Is this true or can the springs be removed without doing this step?
Is the press out tool (14051) listed in the manual required?

Manual says 635 ml of SAE 4 oil per fork leg. Is that 4 weight oil? I thought fork oil came in weights like 5 or 10. I'm guessing you can't buy 4 weight oil down at Cycle Gear. Comments?

 

[reveille]

No man, it's an easy swap for the fork springs. 15 minute job. You need the tool that fits the fork cap or make your own. Remove the fork legs and clamp them in a soft jaw vise vertically then remove the fork cap. Pull the fork spring up and loosen the 19mm nut holding on the fork cap. Remove spring and install the new spring. Lather rinse repeat for the other. Easy peasy. You shouldn't loose any fork oil so none is required unless you screw up and tip the fork over... The shock is a bit trickier due to the exhaust removal but still not bad once you do it once.

 

[octagon pilot]

anybody know, is the 19mm under the fork cap the one thats the subject of the recall on the fork?

No man, it's an easy swap for the fork springs. 15 minute job. You need the tool that fits the fork cap or make your own. Remove the fork legs and clamp them in a soft jaw vise vertically then remove the fork cap. Pull the fork spring up and loosen the 19mm nut holding on the fork cap. Remove spring and install the new spring. Lather rinse repeat for the other. Easy peasy. You shouldn't loose any fork oil so none is required unless you screw up and tip the fork over... The shock is a bit trickier due to the exhaust removal but still not bad once you do it once.

 

[reveille]

If you swap springs, the recall is non existent. Yes the fork cap recall will be fixed when you swap. Just tighten up everything and your all set. Easy

 

[octagon pilot]

yeah, I guess I should pop my caps off and torque the cap/19mm.

I'm sprung correctly with stock springs so thats the only need I have to open them up until I need a fork oil change, but i sure don't need stuff separating in there

 

[Big Timmy]

Pull the Exhaust springs with a suitable hooked pick for o-ring removal I have a set of 3 from Matco and they worked fine. Or bend one yourself into a 270 degree loop after pencil sharpening that one end of a piece of 3/32" or 1/8" diameter for heavier springs. Use 7018 welding rod, its stiff. Break off the flux first of course and it makes a good stiff hook for exhaust springs. Just shape the other end into a ring or bend it about 90 degrees or what ever shape for a handle. It'll cost about a whole nickel at any welding supply where you can buy welding rod by the pound.

 

[decooney]

Rider sag now at 105mm with a new rear spring. Bike does not squat as much so I'm definitely on my toes in slick single track, not so great when I put a foot down. Not really looking to put lowering spacers in my forks or shocks this year, maybe next year if I ever do it.

UPDATE/QUESTION: My local dealer told me they just received and update recently from KTM/Husky indicating rider sag set up should be 105-115mm ??? on the FE 501.
Also, found a few references with riders indicating 112mm is the sweet spot. I would like to raise my forks 1/2" to drop the front down and take some preload out of the rear spring, but not sure how much I can get away with and not screw up the handling.

Anyone here running 112-115mm rider sag with success and front end dropped 1/2" without issue on the new FE 350/501s ???

 

[Big Timmy]

I weigh 240 or so and wear all of about 30 to 35 lbs of riding gear also. I'm running a 6.4 spring in the rear at 109mm exactly right now measured by my partner when I was on the bike in full gladiator gear and all tool bags, hydration pack etc.

This rider sag setting is very subjective but what matters is that its planted well in the front when turned in. To stiff and it will skate and oversteer. Or jump out of the ruts. I'm only running a .48 set of front springs and may go to a set of .50KG set in front if recommended. When I send off the forks and shock for a full service. Just waiting for the hard rifle case I bought to get to my front door and I'll take em to Stillwell myself he's 230 miles or so North of me.

 

[bowser]

I run my 350 at 112mm, does the job well