• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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FE/FC How far on "Rider Sag" settings on FE 501 ???

decooney

decooney

Husqvarna
AA Class
how far do YOU believe you can you let Rider Sag go before it truly starts to impact steering and handling in a negative way for trail riding on the FE 501 - 110, 115, 120mm, how far can you push it within reason ???

Note: Stock with my 200lb rider weight I was just a tad over 120mm on rider sag, but also noticed there was less than 5mm preload on my rear shock set from the factory. I've since replaced the 5.7kg stock unit with a 6.0kg shock spring anyhow, but may not add much preload (if I dont have to) to keep the rear end lower for rider height in more technical/slick mud riding situations - is why I'm asking. Anyone experimenting with this at all on your 501s yet ???
 
the numbers listed are mathematically correct for proper chassis balance. all the science is done , try not to preload more than 10mm into spring (or whatever the book says sometimes its a little more) then get your static number and your race sag number 120 is turning your machine into a chopper if your front is correct, but if you have too lite oem springs up front it may work for you,,,but you will have more harsh rear and she will ride lower.
The book even has the chart for one lighter and one heavier rate for both front and rear corresponding to rider weight, you can simply continue the chart mathematically to get your proper number.
 
In most cases you are better off to bite the bullet and get the right springs. It is all calculated to get the bike balanced to handle and turn correctly. The difference in seat height is only 15mm static and probably less when you are riding. Plus your suspension usually works better when its up in the stroke. I have been in your situation and was amazed at the difference proper spring rates make to the bikes manners. Cam.
 
I'm running a 6.2 rear spring and 4.8 forks springs. 110mm is were I was at but now with a revalve its 105 mm. 8 mm preload. I'm 225 pounds and 250 in gladiator mode with tool bum bag and hydro pack
 
"Gladiator mode" is the best description I have ever seen used. All gear, tools and water included - ready for battle. Cam.
 
I have been playing around with the sag a bit for the last few months. I fit the original spring but the result is the same I suppose.
I had problems with front washing out big time in sharp turns in sandy or loose mud. Never had this with my old Italian TE450.
Results are:
Back too low and it doesn't turn in very well, good for desert racing in long straights but the front pushes out big time.
Back too high and anything fast becomes a mission as it feels like it needs 2 steering dampers.
If the sag stays round the 105 to 115 mm it's fine.
The bike needs moving way to the front to turn sharp, and stay at the back for straight line stability.(KTM thing)
If you keep to the above numbers it works very well.
 
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'm 200lbs rider weight and 223lbs with gladiator gear on, light pack or jacket, and water pack. Also, just spoke to a pro race team chassis guy who told me the "sweet spot" they found for the FE 501 is 106-108mm rider sag, whereas the manual shows 105mm. Close enough.

Since upgrading from 5.7 to a 6.0 shock spring I'm probably okay on the rear but likely need to jump from the stock 4.4 to 4.6 fork springs to get the front balanced out. Can't wait to get it dialed in.
 
4.6 will be good. I tried doing just the shock spring and the bike felt like a teeter totter. From experience I'd say do both right away.
 
I haven't seen anyone on these bikEs. My buddy has a 350exc with pds and has a progressive shock spring
 
Use the spring rates (chart) listed in the owners manual with added math for your weight will put you in balance. see the TE250 300 chart in the 2T section and do the same type spreadsheet for your 4T machine to get your proper balance.
basically, spring rates put your machine in the proper position in the travel according to your weight so the bike chassis sits properly and is balanced under normal riding, accel and decal.
 
robertaccio said:
Use the spring rates (chart) listed in the owners manual with added math for your weight will put you in balance. see the TE250 300 chart in the 2T section and do the same type spreadsheet for your 4T machine to get your proper balance.
basically, spring rates put your machine in the proper position in the travel according to your weight so the bike chassis sits properly and is balanced under normal riding, accel and decal.
Click to expand...


robertaccio,
There is no "chart" with formulas for "added math" in my 2015 FE 501S owners manual. In the back, there are listings in the Technical Data section which refer to a 4.2, 4.4, 4.6 fork springs and 54, 57, 60 NM/mm shock springs listed for rider weight ranges. In my case the 60 NM/mm shock spring and 4.6 fork springs are recommended for a rider weight between 187-209lbs. No chart, no spreadsheet.

Are you looking at the older Italian-Husky version manual or the new Austrian-Husky owner manual or something else ???
 
decooney said:
robertaccio,
There is no "chart" with formulas for "added math" in my 2015 FE 501S owners manual. In the back, there are listings in the Technical Data section which refer to a 4.2, 4.4, 4.6 fork springs and 54, 57, 60 NM/mm shock springs listed for rider weight ranges. In my case the 60 NM/mm shock spring and 4.6 fork springs are recommended for a rider weight between 187-209lbs. No chart, no spreadsheet.

Are you looking at the older Italian-Husky version manual or the new Austrian-Husky owner manual or something else ???
Click to expand...

no i created the charts from the oem data in the book from my 2014 TE300 owners manual. if you look at the listing and if you dont fit the weight ranges with corresponding spring rates you can do the math to add on weight ranges until you have your range

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oem-fork-spring-rate-chart-usd-4860-4cs.78752/

the 4T numbers are most likely different but its the same idea as the numbers above
 
at the first column I used the OEM Newtons per mm at the other end column i converted them to KG/mm because most of our cataloged spring rates are listed in Kg/mm, in the middle column are the weight ranges oen in 22lb ranges. the top rows and bottom rows are just notes and standards they use for base setup
 
update: Test rode the 501 today in some rocks and really bumpy and harsh offroad stuff after replacing the rear 5.7 to 6.0 spring; only 20lbs rider weight over the stock spring and getting the sag closer to 108mm made a notable difference. Very nice, rear tracks really straight too. Definitely more plush now, and will try for 105mm rider sag next. Will definitely be replacing the front springs. I could feel a tad bit of the "teeter-totter" effect mentioned earlier now with the rear settled in, time to do the front. Still happy with the stock WP valving - don't want to change it; just wanna try springs-only first. Hopefully, next week I'll be doing the front end springs too jumping from 4.4 to 4.6 for my rider weight.
 
I know I used teeter totter to describe the feeling but it's more like a rocking horse feel. My suspension tuner laughs his ass off at my dumbass descriptions. Lol
 
reveille said:
I know I used teeter totter to describe the feeling but it's more like a rocking horse feel. My suspension tuner laughs his ass off at my dumbass descriptions. Lol
Click to expand...


Yes, "rocking horse" feel is probably more descriptive. Or, I noticed the front would dive easier than the rear would squat after I installed a stiffer spring on the rear. Checked with a few others who reconfirmed I needed to go up a bit more on front springs for sure. Ordered the 4.6 fork springs and fork bleeders, hope to install them next weekend and try again shortly thereafter.
 
You need a special tool to remove the fork caps but changing the springs is a very easy task if you have the tool. No fluid loss just make sure the new springs are the same length and you'll be good.
 
Got the fork cap tool and springs yesterday. Removed the fork caps and replaced the front fork springs. Nice, super easy to do on these 4CS forks; took about 45 minutes start to finish taking my time. Added air bleeders too. As a simple test, standing on the side of the bike pressing down on the seat just behind the tank, the bike squats evenly front and rear evenly now whereas before the front would drop first when I just had the upgraded rear spring and stock springs in the front. Keeping my fingers crossed, Thanks!

Hope to try it this weekend.
 
It will help for sure. I went through the same thing, exactly. I rode it for 62 hours like that then had the entire suspension rebuilt. I'm getting sick of the weather not allowing me to get a good ride test though...
 
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