• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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125-200cc How exactly 144cc makes?

Sendman

Sendman

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi all
I have last piston size on my "C" marked cylinder, so for next season i will looking for a new one, but better i prefer for 144cc'd my cylinder. I was asking local master turner if he can make 144 from my 125, he ansverd positive. He will bore my cylinder and make an cast iron sleeve.

So i want to ask is this the way, they are making in your country? Which piston size will i need for 144cc? Will stock crankshaft handle it? Will a cylinder head need some modifications?
P60419_075415.jpg
 
From what I see Wallybean boars the cylinder and re nikasils it. No liner.

Yes head will need re working and yes your crank should be fine after all your not changing the height just width.

Think it's a gas gas piston that's used.
I'm not all that sure as I've not got one.
 
juicypips said:
From what I see Wallybean boars the cylinder and re nikasils it. No liner.

Yes head will need re working and yes your crank should be fine after all your not changing the height just width.

Think it's a gas gas piston that's used.
I'm not all that sure as I've not got one.
Click to expand...

Thank for reply bro! It's better than nothing!
 
The husky came from the factory with an optional 144 cc kit. You can do it all with oem parts, although they are probably hard to get in your location.

125cc bore = 54mm
144cc bore = 58mm
165cc bore = 62mm
 
gots_a_sol said:
The husky came from the factory with an optional 144 cc kit. You can do it all with oem parts, although they are probably hard to get in your location.

125cc bore = 54mm
144cc bore = 58mm
165cc bore = 62mm
Click to expand...


thanks man!
I bought my husky for price they asking for new 144cc kit, so i have no moral right to buy it.
The deal is - i need to get new cylinder (fix my) anyway, so i better make 144 from my 125, the problem is - no one know how to do it, and i cant find info.

so i keep on looking.
is this the right piston? http://www.sylinterikauppa.fi/product/34/husqvarna-144cc-mantasarja
why it's so expencive?
So, if the piston marked 57,94mm - the bore must be exactly 57,985mm?
 
But the power valve is not the same, so you wont get the same effect as a "real" 144 kit, i think.
And maybe hard to tune in also to work good in all ranges low middle etc.
I think it is a different top also in the real 144.kit.
 
my seized piston, it will run until winter, and then - cast iron sleeve. Still thinking about making 144cc... any advices are welcome!
P60918_112434.jpg

P60919_115438.jpg

P60918_112517.jpg
 
Yeah let the bike warm up before giving it some.. looks like a cold 4point seize.
If your going cast liner you will have allow extra clearance between the piston and cylinder walls as the thermal dynamics are different to nikasils. Ie. Longer to heat up and expand.
 
juicypips said:
Yeah let the bike warm up before giving it some.. looks like a cold 4point seize.
Click to expand...
yeah, it was in 4 points, it happens at full throttle on road, after 5-6 km. And i warmed it well, as usual.
juicypips said:
If your going cast liner you will have allow extra clearance between the piston and cylinder walls as the thermal dynamics are different to nikasils. Ie. Longer to heat up and expand.
Click to expand...

thanks for valuable advice! I hope my Turner knows about things like this!
 
I did that on a 250 let it idle for 3 mins pootled around got caught in traffic lights opens her up on duel carriage way an the rear locks up solid.
Brand new wossner piston an fresh nikasil.
Was not happy. Turns out the cooling on the 250 was a bit over kill an not everything was up to temp. An Ignition too far advanced will also heat the piston up faster so at full tilt that could also be part of the issue.
 
I can't advise running that motor. I don't know if that is what you meant. Cleaning it up and trying to run it with a flaking and cracked lining is risking catastrophic failure. It also wouldn't be my choice to go with a cast iron liner as there are lots of other issues then as Juicypips pointed out.
 
the reason i go for a cast iron liner, is that it's much cheaper than new coating, and new cylinder as well. Furthermore there is many motors running this kind of repair.
So you strongly opposed to use my cylinder in this condition?
And the main reason i bothered you, is to have your opinion about trimming power valves to fit 144 size cylinder, and to gain more power at bottom? Maybe some mods to cylinders windows?
 
I personally would go for nikasil, should be about same cost as a liner and much more beneficial.
P.s. I know you shouldn't run a cylinder in this condition but I have done to get a race over and yes it's lasted... I'm not saying yours will last or it won't but that's the gamble you take.
 
I ran my 360 for about 100 miles with a cylinder that looked much worse but I wouldn't do it if I had a choice. The downside when some of the cylinder lining flakes and goes through your bottom end is not worth it. This is very hard material and the bearings won't mean much to it.
 
Re-nikasil it mate, as others have said, continual running in that condition will only result in a bigger bill when you'll need to do the bottom end as well....scored piston and even wall yes but not when the coating has flaked.
If you want to save money, bore and re-nikasil to the 144cc piston size and off you go for another 100+ hours...cast liners went out at the turn of this century!
 
thank you all guys ! I decided not to run motor in this condition anymore.
I still looking info about exact dimensions of piston and cylinder for 144 kit.
Who can help in this question?
 
The dimensions of the 144 is 58.00mm bore by a 54.5mm stroke. You can use an oem Italian husky 144 piston or you can also use a YZ144 piston. Either way you are going to need to machine your head to fit. You will also need to re-chamber the head for the correct volume. The YZ piston has a raised dome with a bevel on the edge so machining is a bit trickier but the pistons are much easier to source.
 
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