• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st How do you seal the pipe to silencer joint?

krieg

krieg

Husqvarna
Pro Class
My CR 150 is spitting spooge at the joint between the silencer and pipe. The spooge is accumulating on the swingarm. Any suggestions for sealing this joint? It did not come with a rubber bushing like other 2T's I've had.
 
I put Zip ties around the rubber collar on mine,it seemed to slow the leaking down a little.
 
Alot of high temp silicone is what I use, on the cylinder/pipe junction also. Ours came with the bushing/seal thing though, buts ours is a 10 125
 
Jet it
oldman.gif
 
You need to jet it correctly. You are too rich. Especially at the Pilot and needle. Certain oils are also prone to spooge as they won't burn cleanly. My WR150 spooged badly. I have now rejetted and change oils. I have recently changed from Maxima Super M to Maxima K2. I have so far been impressed on how clean the K2 burns when mixed at 40:1.
 
Vinduro said:
You need to jet it correctly. You are too rich. Especially at the Pilot and needle. Certain oils are also prone to spooge as they won't burn cleanly. My WR150 spooged badly. I have now rejetted and change oils. I have recently changed from Maxima Super M to Maxima K2. I have so far been impressed on how clean the K2 burns when mixed at 40:1.
Click to expand...

I'm already running a 30 pilot. I'm using the RM needle in the stock Mikuni. I may try lowering the needle a clip but the bike screams as set up now, so I may just put up with the spooge.
 
I have recently changed from Maxima Super M to Maxima K2. I have so far been impressed on how clean the K2 burns when mixed at 40:1.
Click to expand...

Dwight,
Not surprised the K2 was cleaner than the tried and true Super M. The flash point (temperature at which the vapors will ignite) of modern 2 stroke oils also come into play. i.e. Bel Ray MC1 plus 208' F, Amsoil Dominator 195' F and the Interceptor 185'F, Golden Spectro 170'F, and Maxima 927 240'F, Super M 420'F, and the K2 is 288'F. the higher temps of a flash point require higher temps to burn. There are additives in the oil that need a freaking blow torch to burn and even have a high ash content. A sparky will always exhaserbate the spooge issue. It's just the nature of those damn HP choking things we have to deal with as US riders. I tired Torco GP7 once and found it extremely clean burning at 44:1. No spooge whatsoever. I am a golden Spectro guy through and through and get very little to no spooge at 44:1 on my 144.

Joe

There is nothing like the sound and smell of an old air cooled open bike running Maxima 927 castor or the Klotz NeNOL Castor. (Klotz flash point is 555'F BTW...not good for PV engines)
 
The RM needles are richer straights, richer tapers and you have to increase your slide # to offset the bottom. Your stock one could have been a 2.69 - 2.71.

What RM needle # you using?

This Chart will help All 16 needles are 1 clip moves. all 17 are 1/2 clips.
 

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  • RM Needle Chart.jpg
    RM Needle Chart.jpg
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dartyppyt said:
The RM needles are richer straights, richer tapers and you have to increase your slide # to offset the bottom. Your stock one could have been a 2.69 - 2.71.

What RM needle # you using?

This Chart will help All 16 needles are 1 clip moves. all 17 are 1/2 clips.
Click to expand...

I'm using the 17-61.
 
My stock 125 with CR Ignition. I"m 16-62 4th clip, 37 Pilot, 460 main. Synthetic 2 stroke oil 40:1 no spooge. PaHusky is I think #2 clip, same pilot, same main. With that needle, you are 1/2 clip richer.
We both run the 5.0 slide.

I could let you borrow a 5.0 slide if yours is a 4.0 and a 62 needle.
 
I've got the 16-62 needle. I guess I just need to check the slide #. Where can I buy new slides? I wonder how much difference the 150 will make versus the 125? Also, what temps/elevation?
 
Joe Chod said:
The flash point (temperature at which the vapors will ignite) of modern 2 stroke oils also come into play. i.e. Bel Ray MC1 plus 208' F, Amsoil Dominator 195' F and the Interceptor 185'F, Golden Spectro 170'F, and Maxima 927 240'F, Super M 420'F, and the K2 is 288'F. the higher temps of a flash point require higher temps to burn.
Click to expand...
Joe Chod do you know the flash point of Motul 800 and how it compares.. Thanks and cheers..
smile.gif
 
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