• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc How do you get in there to adjust sag?

With a hammer and a flat screw driver. Loosen the top nut, then turn the bottom nut clockwise for more preload or counter clockwise for less preload. Remember to tighten the top nut after getting your sag.
 
Motion Pro sells a neat shock nut punch that has a brass tip so as not to damage the Shock spring nut. Not bad priced. Your friendly Parts Unlimited Dealer can get you one. Even a long punch is better than a screwdriver. A screw driver will damage the nut so use that only in emergencies.
 
I use the end of a flat file, the part that would go into the handle.It's bigger and blunter than a screwdriver so it doesn't do any damage to the preload nuts.
 
A piece of 10mm aluminium round bar filed to a flat on one end has served me for many many years and will not leave a mark !
If it starts to look ragged on the end, file it again and another 10 year life span begins
 
I use 1/4 sch 80 PVC that I cut into 3/4" wide x 10" long; no messing up of the nuts with that. Once in a while I re-cut the end off the PVC to get it back to square. LOL I bought a sheet 4' x 8' sheet of this stuff 15 -20 years ago and still using pieces of it today.
 
put bike on stand loosen top ring nut (i use aluminium flat bar) and you should be able to turn the spring by hand which should rotate the compression ring nut, keep everything well lubed.
 
jo360 said:
put bike on stand loosen top ring nut (i use aluminium flat bar) and you should be able to turn the spring by hand which should rotate the compression ring nut, keep everything well lubed.
Click to expand...
+1
But if it gets a bit stiff to turn by hand, I use a long screwdriver(or similar) to lever the ring around, as opposed to belting it. No damage and heaps faster than tapping it around with a screwy/punch.
 
Or you could buy the right tool for the job. I've always used a brass drift.

http://www.amazon.com/Ohlins-00710-02-Shock-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B00415XAH0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_2

21g3TMT9rjL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top