• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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How do i stop flame out on 449

STOMPER

STOMPER

Husqvarna
Just bought a 2013 te 449,mods are JD jetting power surge,toxic racing oil system,zip tye vent,map 2,FMF power core 4 & warp 9 supermoto wheels.Bike runs great, till it shuts off at a light or stop sign.Any help or mods would be appreciated.love the bike,Thanks.
 
STOMPER said:
Just bought a 2013 te 449,mods are JD jetting power surge,toxic racing oil system,zip tye vent,map 2,FMF power core 4 & warp 9 supermoto wheels.Bike runs great, till it shuts off at a light or stop sign.Any help or mods would be appreciated.love the bike,Thanks.
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Spend some time and read through some of the posts here. There about a dozen ways to skin the cat and all are covered quite extensively. You do NOT need a JD nor a PCV to make the bike run right. There are quite a few folks here that have the bike running absolutely perfectly without tweaking the fuel/air delivery at all.

First, make sure you have the BMW Map Set #3 loaded. If your local dealer won't do it (many wont) then send it to Zip TY.

Make sure your TPS is properly reset. TO make sure, have your dealer do it as it takes like 5 mins of effort. After those two items, note your position on the brass air screw and add 1/8 to 1/4 turn (out). That little bit of extra tickover helps allot of the issue vanish overnight.
 
X2 turn the brass screw to the left a quarter turn. It turns up the idle a little. I haven't had a stall since
 
9880sts said:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/20...y-efi-system-finally.41069/page-3#post-402561


here is your answer to stop them.... period
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Sorry, but this is not required - I am not saying it is not worth looking into, but there are very simple cures to the flameouts. I just returned from three amazing days of riding in the Ozarks. Roughly 200 miles of everything from twisty asphalt to ISDE-qualifier single track. My 449 (a 2013) was perfect and I had zero (as in absolutely none) flameouts. I can also add that with the EarthX I also had zero compression induced failure to starts.

I don't have the JD nor PCV - my only "electronic" mod is the BMW Map Set 3, a FMF with the new smallest quiet insert, a fresh TPS reset, and an extra 1/4 turn added to by tickover. That's it.

Last fall, same terrain and same weather I had dozens of flameouts with a couple of them throwing me over the bars. I also had multiple boil overs. The changes above made ALL of my Husky woes vanish.
 
bigmo said:
Sorry, but this is not required - I am not saying it is not worth looking into, but there are very simple cures to the flameouts. I just returned from three amazing days of riding in the Ozarks. Roughly 200 miles of everything from twisty asphalt to ISDE-qualifier single track. My 449 (a 2013) was perfect and I had zero (as in absolutely none) flameouts. I can also add that with the EarthX I also had zero compression induced failure to starts.

I don't have the JD nor PCV - my only "electronic" mod is the BMW Map Set 3, a FMF with the new smallest quiet insert, a fresh TPS reset, and an extra 1/4 turn added to by tickover. That's it.

Last fall, same terrain and same weather I had dozens of flameouts with a couple of them throwing me over the bars. I also had multiple boil overs. The changes above made ALL of my Husky woes vanish.
Click to expand...


...and just to confuse everyone even more I am running PCV w/ autotune (zipty factory map with around 25 hours of accepted trims from autotune), FMF slip-on with quiet insert, map 3, power-up plug, idle set to just around 2000 rpm and still have flameouts in the tight twisty stuff. Flameouts happen more on the single track in hills while in the lower rpms. I'm not talking about stalling it on a rock either- this is the cough + hiss + hard to start back up flameout. Otherwise from 2% - 100% throttle and 2000 - 8600+ rpm the bike runs great. Pulls much harder than running just the map 3 and power up plug.
 
I too think this may be a good mod, my bike is the best its ever been, but better off idle, makes sense, I am lurking,
Seems it would be worth a try on the butterfly. Easily reversable. Keep the reports coming!
 
bigmo said:
Sorry, but this is not required - I am not saying it is not worth looking into, but there are very simple cures to the flameouts. I just returned from three amazing days of riding in the Ozarks. Roughly 200 miles of everything from twisty asphalt to ISDE-qualifier single track. My 449 (a 2013) was perfect and I had zero (as in absolutely none) flameouts. I can also add that with the EarthX I also had zero compression induced failure to starts.

I don't have the JD nor PCV - my only "electronic" mod is the BMW Map Set 3, a FMF with the new smallest quiet insert, a fresh TPS reset, and an extra 1/4 turn added to by tickover. That's it.

Last fall, same terrain and same weather I had dozens of flameouts with a couple of them throwing me over the bars. I also had multiple boil overs. The changes above made ALL of my Husky woes vanish.
Click to expand...



Excellent to hear your bike is running well almost unmodified!

As mentioned in my original thread, my own '11 model TE449 did not respond to any of the above 'normal fixes'. (Map3, tps sets, idle adjustments)

As I don't have a '13 model I can't say if it would work for one of them, but not all '11 model bikes play up either.

I would have preferred to leave it standard, but after 18 months of dealers & my own time & still no cure, I made my own changes.

The results are awesome.
 
Whittaker said:
...and just to confuse everyone even more I am running PCV w/ autotune (zipty factory map with around 25 hours of accepted trims from autotune), FMF slip-on with quiet insert, map 3, power-up plug, idle set to just around 2000 rpm and still have flameouts in the tight twisty stuff. Flameouts happen more on the single track in hills while in the lower rpms. I'm not talking about stalling it on a rock either- this is the cough + hiss + hard to start back up flameout. Otherwise from 2% - 100% throttle and 2000 - 8600+ rpm the bike runs great. Pulls much harder than running just the map 3 and power up plug.
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I would try the steps in the post taking care. All are reversible, so nothing to loose.

Have fun.
 
Dangermouse449 said:
Excellent to hear your bike is running well almost unmodified!

As mentioned in my original thread, my own '11 model TE449 did not respond to any of the above 'normal fixes'. (Map3, tps sets, idle adjustments)

As I don't have a '13 model I can't say if it would work for one of them, but not all '11 model bikes play up either.

I would have preferred to leave it standard, but after 18 months of dealers & my own time & still no cure, I made my own changes.

The results are awesome.
Click to expand...



Right, I get that. However, the OP has a 2013 - same as mine. Barring some odd gremlins, any 2013 can be made to run with some pretty minor effort.
 
bigmo said:
Right, I get that. However, the OP has a 2013 - same as mine. Barring some odd gremlins, any 2013 can be made to run with some pretty minor effort.
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I'm hearing you mate, although 2012 bikes are the same as 2013 bikes, there are a heap of these not running well too.

As I said, great yours is sweet. No one posts on here saying 'My bike is all good' much either, so we only hear about the problem bikes.

It would seem all the years suffer variable build quality....
 
Gents I run a pro circuit full system also had to replace my TPS after a stick smashed it,I had it replaced and reset but now at low rev range whilst doing approx 10kms it pops and jerks I also run 98 octane fuel . ANY BODY HAVE ANY IDEAS. I also run race map 2.
 
Mr Ford40 said:
Gents I run a pro circuit full system also had to replace my TPS after a stick smashed it,I had it replaced and reset but now at low rev range whilst doing approx 10kms it pops and jerks I also run 98 octane fuel . ANY BODY HAVE ANY IDEAS. I also run race map 2.
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Dumb question but did you do the TPS yourself or a Husky shop?
 
Mr Ford40 said:
Gents I run a pro circuit full system also had to replace my TPS after a stick smashed it,I had it replaced and reset but now at low rev range whilst doing approx 10kms it pops and jerks I also run 98 octane fuel . ANY BODY HAVE ANY IDEAS. I also run race map 2.
Click to expand...


Best way would be for the dealer to set it up via the scan tool, that way it can be moved until the correct voltage is set for the idle position.

I'm looking at getting some of the factory plugs (they're available aftermarket) shortly so I can make a plug-in jumper lead with test wires hanging out, that way I'll be able to run the bike AND measure the TPS voltages. I'm hoping I can find the 'magic' voltage for a smooth idle on my own '11 model.

Stay tuned =)
 
The PCV does reset the tps, and seems to work fine. Running the zipty map and bumping the fuel
5% at 1500rpm up to 2500, adjusting air bypass I have not had a flameout/stall since the mod.
The voltages shown at 0 throttle are .6 something and 3.99+ at 100%.
 
James Patton said:
The PCV does reset the tps, and seems to work fine. Running the zipty map and bumping the fuel
5% at 1500rpm up to 2500, adjusting air bypass I have not had a flameout/stall since the mod.
The voltages shown at 0 throttle are .6 something and 3.99+ at 100%.
Click to expand...


I don't have a PCV, but may in the future, just occupying myself messing with the factory system to see how good I can get it. (For the record, pretty good now, one flameout in two big rides isn't bad)

Thanks for the readings, I suspect mine wasn't as high as that 0.6 reading before I moved it, that's why I will test with a meter.
 
The problem with fooling around with the factory setting is that you cannot increase the fuel which is causing the lean condition in the first place. Once you add the pcv, not only can you ramp the fuel, but also the timing. You have the option of on-the-fly map changes too. This is awesome for switching for traction control, plus other utilities.
 
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