• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

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How Do I Check Oil Level? Te510

Angsty

Angsty

Husqvarna
B Class
Hi all, long time caller, first time listener,

I have a 2007 TE 510 I bought used. The manual shows an oil sight window, but my model does not have this. There’s nothing I could find in the shop or owners manual that describes how to check the oil level (without completely draining and refilling the bike).

Saw something on a thread about a bolt that might indicate oil level.

Any recommendations are appreciated.
 
Pour in about 1.4 liters of oil Make sure bike is level upright. Remove oil screw. If oil doesn't run out of hole, add oil until it starts to run out. Then reinstall screw. Run engine. Recheck. If oil drips out of the bottom of your airbox after a ride, then there was a little too much oil in the engine. Oil will also run out of the airbox if you have a good crash on the righthand side of the bike. It will go from the valve cover vent,down the hose and right into the airbox. Then the engine will be a little difficult to start and will smoke till all the oil gets pulled through the combustion chamber and the inside of the airbox is cleared. Just telling you that so that it won't get you worried if it happens.
 
Thanks so much. Greatly appreciate it. Now if I could just find a new side stand bracket, I’d be golden….
 
Dirtdame said:
Pour in about 1.4 liters of oil Make sure bike is level upright. Remove oil screw. If oil doesn't run out of hole, add oil until it starts to run out. Then reinstall screw. Run engine. Recheck. If oil drips out of the bottom of your airbox after a ride, then there was a little too much oil in the engine. Oil will also run out of the airbox if you have a good crash on the righthand side of the bike. It will go from the valve cover vent,down the hose and right into the airbox. Then the engine will be a little difficult to start and will smoke till all the oil gets pulled through the combustion chamber and the inside of the airbox is cleared. Just telling you that so that it won't get you worried if it happens.
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Dirtdame said:
Pour in about 1.4 liters of oil Make sure bike is level upright. Remove oil screw. If oil doesn't run out of hole, add oil until it starts to run out. Then reinstall screw. Run engine. Recheck. If oil drips out of the bottom of your airbox after a ride, then there was a little too much oil in the engine. Oil will also run out of the airbox if you have a good crash on the righthand side of the bike. It will go from the valve cover vent,down the hose and right into the airbox. Then the engine will be a little difficult to start and will smoke till all the oil gets pulled through the combustion chamber and the inside of the airbox is cleared. Just telling you that so that it won't get you worried if it happens.
Click to expand...

Great answer
 
So if I want to just check my oil: I run it, let it sit for 60 seconds, take out the screw, and oil should run out. If not add oil. That all sounds kosher?
 
Well, I found the slow oil leak was because the last service tech didn’t put a crush washer on the drain plug bolt. Then, I discovered they striped the little screw plug to check level. Helicoil should fix that, but are these shavings caught by the screen something to be concerned about?
 

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Are the chips magnetic? What did the bottom drain plug magnet look like/ Any chips in the oil? I would be concerned if the the chips are magnetic, or if there were a lot of chips drained out of the bottom plug. But you don't know if the former owner ever cleaned either of the screens, so if I were you, I would thoroughly clean both front and rear filters, install a new oil filter, fresh oil and run it another 500 miles, then check screens and filters again. If they come up clean, then I wouldn't worry much. And yes, I had to install an insert on the case of my TE450 also. That should end any more thread stripping episodes.
 
Not much was caught on the magnetic drain plug. Seems like the screens caught everything, and I took out and cleaned all three screens and replace the oil filter. Thanks so much for the reply and info, greatly appreciate it.
 
Obviously trying to keep shavings and the cool end out of the oil, how concerned should I be if some shavings get in there. Do I really need to sacrifice the 1.5quarts of new oil? Probably…
 
Angsty said:
Obviously trying to keep shavings and the cool end out of the oil, how concerned should I be if some shavings get in there. Do I really need to sacrifice the 1.5quarts of new oil? Probably…
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I changed my oil every 500 miles anyway, and the filter every other oil change (or 1000 miles). I did not use expensive oil. When I bought my bike new from the dealer, they recommended using regular petroleum based motor oil, so I did. First I bought motorcycle specific oil from the dealer, but later I bought turbo rated 20/50 from Walmart, and that seemed to work very well.
 
I’m fine just draining the oil again, but now wondering if draining the oil and hoping the screens will catch any other aluminum shavings is a bad idea. Do I need to remove the hole crankcase cover, install a helicoil in it and then reinstall. A freaking simple oil change is now looking to cost me double the oil, $40 for the M8 helicoil, and another $35 for the crank case gasket and about quadruple the time.
 
Angsty said:
I’m fine just draining the oil again, but now wondering if draining the oil and hoping the screens will catch any other aluminum shavings is a bad idea. Do I need to remove the hole crankcase cover, install a helicoil in it and then reinstall. A freaking simple oil change is now looking to cost me double the oil, $40 for the M8 helicoil, and another $35 for the crank case gasket and about quadruple the time.
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i used the original thread size insert, which is a 6X1. I would avoid making the threaded hole any larger than it originally was. I don't think I had to drill for the rethreading. just put some thick grease on the thread pilot tap to pick up any shavings in the flutes, then screwed the insert in with some grease on the end of the tool that the insert tang rests in. That way, the tang sticks in the grease in the tool also when you break it off.
 
Dirtdame said:
i used the original thread size insert, which is a 6X1. I would avoid making the threaded hole any larger than it originally was. I don't think I had to drill for the rethreading. just put some thick grease on the thread pilot tap to pick up any shavings in the flutes, then screwed the insert in with some grease on the end of the tool that the insert tang rests in. That way, the tang sticks in the grease in the tool also when you break it off.
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You may be a genius. The bolt is an M8, but if I just tap it and get an M6, as long as the M6 coil is snug then I’d be set with very minimal shavings and a slightly smaller but functional hole. Thank you!
 
Angsty said:
You may be a genius. The bolt is an M8, but if I just tap it and get an M6, as long as the M6 coil is snug then I’d be set with very minimal shavings and a slightly smaller but functional hole. Thank you!
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If the threaded hole is M8, that means that the previous owner stripped it and decided to just hog the original M6 size out so they wouldn't have to spend money on the correct tools and inserts.
 
Update, the screw in the check hole was a M8 that was glued into the stripped case cover with locktight. I used a slightly smaller helicoil and screw to repair. Manual says it should hold 1.8 quarts (with a filter change), which seems like a lot and plenty poured out the check hole. How much oils do you put in your bike?

Maybe someone can tell me if this is the check hole screw per the manual? I don’t think it is, because the torque spec is way too high. I used the recommended torque speck for a steal bolt on aluminum. Photos of the manual included.63F6958E-F6F1-4FA8-B8F8-44741260C49E.jpeg EAF1F982-2A55-4DB8-973A-C03C2DDFDE00.jpeg
 
1.8 seems like way too much. Try 1.4, then add if you have to. Remember that the hole size dictates the measurement, so if the hole is larger than 6 mm, the oil will spill out at a slightly lower level....not by much though.
 
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