• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Highway Dirtbike Handguards for TE 310

2wheeler

2wheeler

Husqvarna
AA Class
Planning to order a set this weekend.

Do I have the correct size upper and lower clamps in mind?

Upper: 93 x 38/40 mm
Lower: 10mm

Thanks!
 
This is what Paul from HDB told/sent me and they fit the 310.

For the TE's the bolt pattern is 93x50mm, but I don't support the 50mm top clamps anymore because they're asymmetrical, what I'm making is 93x38/40mm and then the lowers I make for everything else matches those. So when you order you need to order lowers too. That's the only special consideration you'll need, the through bolts are 10mm.
 
Thanks reveille. Paul's explanation alleviates my confusion lol.

Picked up some pillow top grips. Going to try not gluing them. Maybe they will help a little with vibration.
 
You will need to tap your bar ends. Make sure you are fresh when you attempt it. Don't try doing it after work because you will end up running out of cuss words. AMHIK Much better to tackle it early in your day IMO. I replaced my bars with Protaper EVO's, my current favorite bars and the flex helps with vibes too. If your not gluing the grips then safety wire them.
 
haha sound advice! I will save for a Sat morning. Ok still stuck in the 70's here. Bars were bars and we just slipped on the grips. Looks like I will be cutting the stock ones off and should glue the new ones. That is amazing the evo's actually have some flex to them? How susceptible are they to bending with the guards on? Umm, just is case they meet the ground.
 
I ran EVO's on my DR650 and couldn't bend em with some high speed off's. That was a 350lb bike too. I like em but it's subjective I think. My stock TE Magura bars bent after the first crash. FYI, if you order bars from Paul at HDB, he will tap them for free. He charges about $10 over what the superstores sell the bars for but the tapping is worth the $ IMHO.
 
Thanks for the tip. I will take a look at the evos. Definitely sturdy taking that punishment. Its almost worth new bars just to keep from having to mess with the tap lol.
 
reveille said:
You will need to tap your bar ends. Make sure you are fresh when you attempt it. Don't try doing it after work because you will end up running out of cuss words. AMHIK Much better to tackle it early in your day IMO. I replaced my bars with Protaper EVO's, my current favorite bars and the flex helps with vibes too. If your not gluing the grips then safety wire them.
Click to expand...

If I had to do it over I would make a tap guide out of PVC or something to keep the tap straight when starting. If it gets crooked in the hole, chances are the guards will still bolt up, but it will be a big PITA getting enough thread depth while the tap tries to chew its way through the bar. Ask me how I know... :D
 
I like the pvc idea. I did make a guide out of a chunk of 2x4 and it worked perfect. I learned my lesson when I tapped the stock bars so when I did the EVO's this winter I used a guide which helped tremendously. I still can't get over how hard the aluminum is to thread though. I damn near needed a 3' cheater bar for the last couple of turns. Tough stuff the EVO's are made from...
 
Tap guides a great idea. Although I have done similar before has been a few minutes since that time. I know I have some 2x4 laying around. Bet my left over pvc is too large diameter for the bars. Thanks to you guys help I have some time to get this all together before they arrive. I looked at the bars listed on the site. Honestly I believe I would have to try them to really know what to change if any. I don't have any problems with the stock shape.
 
2wheeler said:
Thanks reveille. Paul's explanation alleviates my confusion lol.

Picked up some pillow top grips. Going to try not gluing them. Maybe they will help a little with vibration.
Click to expand...


I recommend gluing them. I painted the bars with Goop and let it dry, then I brushed on some mineral spirits and also sloshed mineral spirits around inside the grips and twisted them on. It took a little effort, but they are on there rock solid now. If you don't have one, now would be a good time to by a grip punch cutter to cut out the ends of the grips.
 
2wheeler said:
We will go with the gluing. Mike by Goop you refer to the glue right? Why the mineral spirits?
Click to expand...


GOOP is a brand of rubber cement. I imagine any would work. It sets after you paint it on the bars. The mineral spirits dissolve it again just enough that you can slide the grips on.
 
I've got an Enduro Engineering skidplate. I think if I had to do it over I would go with a Hyde.

You can probably get the old grips off intact if you are careful. Compressed air can help. If not, you will need new ones. Either way you will need to cut holes in the end of them since the bar ends need to be uncovered to attach the HDB handguards. A grip punch cutter is the neatest way to do that. This would also be a good time to install a Throttle Tamer if you are so inclined.
 
Gentlemen,

FNG to the world of off-road and all the inherent mysteries. A "tap guide" made out of PVC or a 2x4; how do you make it and then use it ? Sorry, but I have not run across the need for one in my casual wrenching, so any and all information would be appreciated. Thanks, Ken.
 
Tapping the end of the bars with a 5/8" - 11 tap is tricky to start the tap straight. The aluminum alloy of the handlebars is very hard, much harder than steel and if the tap isn't straight it will cut out and just tear out material instead of cutting the threads. Clear as mud right? A guide, that fits over the bar end, helping to keep the tap straight is very helpful. I made one out of wood and it worked perfect but I think Mike mentioned using a threaded PVC 5/8-11 fitting and retro fitting it as a guide. There are specific tap guides for sale for machinists but they are spendy.
31FEKbvuawL._SX300_.jpg

tap2.jpg
 
Almost done looking good!

Am I interpreting the correct torque figures for the risers, and the top clamp?

Risers to Triple Clamp 28 Nm

HDB Top Clamp to Risers 21 Nm

The bolts holding the risers to the triple clamp don't seem to be long enough for the provided flat washer. I should be OK with the factory triple clamp grommet/washers combo right?

Torque Front Suspension.PNG
 
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