Hi I just got my 2012 TE511 today (only 410 miles on it). The guy who sold it to me said it had stage 3 mapping which i am not sure what that is but I do know about the power up plug. i went and put fresh 93 octane gas in it and took it for a ride through some local trails.After riding it a while I noticed it kept shutting of when i went to accelerate so when i got it home i looked to see if the power up plug was in and it was. so I pulled the plug and started it up rode it around the yard and it idled lower and still shut off. so i plugged the pp back in now i cannot get it to start.OMG what did i do? HELP ME PLease****************************************
-
Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Help!!
- Thread starter mtntamer
- Start date
I was able to get it started after pulling the plug again then starting it.... then after it started I shut it down waiting a few minutes then restarting it!
Now how do i get it to stop shutting off when i go to give it throttle! thats frustrating since it happened going up a small hill.
tonskiguy
Husqvarna
AA Class
Are you running the stock exhaust? If so, remove the Cat, or get an FMF. Give the idle screw a 1/8th turn, check with Zip Ty to see if they installed Map III, or if they can. My 2012 ECU was "Locked" and would not take Map III, so I ordered a Power Commander. You can install a 13 or 14 tooth front sprocket too to give a little higher RPM for the slow speed stuff.
MorrisBetter
Husqvarna
AA Class
A video of the problem would help here. When you say "shut off" I assume that you mean the motor quits running. Does it make a "blatt chuff" sound when it quits? If so, that's a common fueling problem that can be solved with a power commander or the (arguably easier to use) JD Jetting Power Surge X6. But before doing anything, crank up you idle speed to about 1850-1900 and see if that helps. If the problem persists, get a tuning box (PC or X6) and you should be good to go. I had the same problem and I solved it in short order with the JD Jetting thing.
bigmo
Husqvarna
AA Class
I will disagree with the others...you can get them to run perfectly without spending money on the PCV or the JD tuner - but it takes some money and some effort on your part.
IMO, you can get them to run good with the stock exhaust, but you will not ever deal with a bunch of minor gremlins until you either a) cut out the cat or b) throw on an aftermarket exhaust. One is free and one is not - both can work very well.
The VERY first thing I would do is reset your TPS. No need doing any other troubleshooting until you do that first.
Next, you need to figure out what set of maps you have on there. You WANT BMW Map Set #3. My local dealer did mine (I paid in beer). That being said, I don't think dealers are actually supposed to do it. The best method is to mail it off to ZipTy. Their fee is very affordable (like REALLY affordable).
If you are spending the vast majority of time on trails and very little on pavement, I agree that dropping the counter shaft one tooth is money well spent. I got a Moose front (I think stock is 15 and I went to 14) - check your teeth first and drop one. That put the whole gearbox in range and I still can zip up to 70 and hold that for short spurts on the highway when needed.
I also believe that the batteries sold with these bikes are vastly underpowered. I have an EarthX and could not be happier.
I have spent less on my 449 making it race ready than any other bike I have ever owned. The only bike that came close was my 2002 KTM 400 EXC. Mine runs absolutely flawlessly and flat out rips. I do not run either the PCV nor the JD Tuner. I do have Map Set #3, an FMF pipe with the quietest (new) 1 1/18" insert - but I ran fine with the stocker sans a cat. I put the FMF on for weight reduction as it cut 5 whole pounds. I also have the EarthX which cured my nagging problem of compression locks.
These bikes are worth piddling with and getting the kinks worked out. You probably got your bike for a steal - so they are worth sinking a few bucks into.
Good luck and enjoy!
IMO, you can get them to run good with the stock exhaust, but you will not ever deal with a bunch of minor gremlins until you either a) cut out the cat or b) throw on an aftermarket exhaust. One is free and one is not - both can work very well.
The VERY first thing I would do is reset your TPS. No need doing any other troubleshooting until you do that first.
Next, you need to figure out what set of maps you have on there. You WANT BMW Map Set #3. My local dealer did mine (I paid in beer). That being said, I don't think dealers are actually supposed to do it. The best method is to mail it off to ZipTy. Their fee is very affordable (like REALLY affordable).
If you are spending the vast majority of time on trails and very little on pavement, I agree that dropping the counter shaft one tooth is money well spent. I got a Moose front (I think stock is 15 and I went to 14) - check your teeth first and drop one. That put the whole gearbox in range and I still can zip up to 70 and hold that for short spurts on the highway when needed.
I also believe that the batteries sold with these bikes are vastly underpowered. I have an EarthX and could not be happier.
I have spent less on my 449 making it race ready than any other bike I have ever owned. The only bike that came close was my 2002 KTM 400 EXC. Mine runs absolutely flawlessly and flat out rips. I do not run either the PCV nor the JD Tuner. I do have Map Set #3, an FMF pipe with the quietest (new) 1 1/18" insert - but I ran fine with the stocker sans a cat. I put the FMF on for weight reduction as it cut 5 whole pounds. I also have the EarthX which cured my nagging problem of compression locks.
These bikes are worth piddling with and getting the kinks worked out. You probably got your bike for a steal - so they are worth sinking a few bucks into.
Good luck and enjoy!
riding
Husqvarna
A Class
I bought my bike used with 47 miles on it. I also had a problem with my bike cutting out and then not wanting to start. It was very frustrating. I thought it had to do with altitude or the gas. I talked to a guy who recommended Zip Ty Racing. They were super friendly and glad to help someone new to bikes. I highly recommend the Zip Ty Racing. My bike hasn't stalled one time since they did the ECU upgrade. Worth a shot for $40.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/te449-511-ecu-upgrade/
http://www.ziptyracing.com/te449-511-ecu-upgrade/
Teambowles
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I just went thru this, mine has fmf exhaust, jumper in and map 3. Kept flaming out and started hard. I thought it would be cool for it to be louder so I pulled out the quiet core (way louder). After about the third ride I was pissed. Ziptyracing recommended put the quiet core in and do tps reset. Did both and also matched the big brass screw on side of tps to my 449 5 1\4 turns out from all the way in and she now runs like a scalded cat. I did all this at about 450 miles, now has 1000 on it and all starting and flameouts are gone.
I do have the FMF Q4 on there and bought the Quiet core so when it arrives I will be installing it. I d have one more question.. when I start the bike it says race map II would it say that if race map III is on there or would it say Race map III? Also how do I do a TPS reset without a key which my bike doesnt have?
bigmo
Husqvarna
AA Class
You are mixing verbiage. There are any number of map sets available - the one we all know and love is known as something like "BMW Race Team Map Set #3" - at least that is what my dealer called it. That "set" has two maps - one witht he jumper out and one with the jumper in. You can load any number of the sets and each will have that same "two map" combo. Make sense?
As for the TPS, yes it can be done, but it is dramatically tougher as you are constantly acting and waiting based upon the ignition status. I too have a keyless 2013. I THOUGHT i was doing ti right and even performed the TPS reset about 5x to be sure. When I couldnt get something sorted out ont he bike, I ran it over tot he dealer and they did one for me in like 2 mins - turns out my TPS reset didnt work/take or I am too stupid to follow the directions. Whatever the case, THEIR TPS reset fixed the issue immediately.
I would have spent more time trying to resolve it, but I am adding a key soon so it will be a non-issue for me.
Teambowles
Husqvarna
Pro Class
No it will still say race map 2 when map 3 is installed. Map 3 is called a lot of things, bmw race map 3, my dealer called it akrapovic full race exhaust map 3, or akrapovic full titanium exhaust map. It's been over a month since I did tps reset so I'm going off memory, (there is a thread that explains tps with no key here on CF).
Push starter button with clutch in but don't start
Pull fuse or like I did pull off positive battery terminal from battery quickly like before buzzing stops
With clutch pulled in after you disconnect battery or fuse continue to hold in starter button to discharge remainder of charge in system (I held mine for about 5 minutes)
Let bike sit for about 30 minutes
Reconnect battery, start and let idle for 5 minutes. Then go for a ride. It worked for mine no more flame outs but I also installed core back in pipe during that 30 minutes so I think both helped
Thanks so much you guys have been very helpful! I just bought a earthX battery hoping that will help also a quiet core for the FMF and I guess I will have to get a key for it since we don't have a Husky dealership here in Savannah.