• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help, TXC 310r Oil Leak

Jeremy Williams

Husqvarna
A Class
So I decided to pull the trigger on a 2014 txc 310 R. Both my buddy and myself drove 6 hours away and picked two up. Drove them around in the parking lot and didn't notice any problems. We got them home and I now have about an hour on the bike. My buddies bike has no leaks on his. After five minutes on mine I had two pretty bad leaks. One on the alternator cover where the wire's come out the top. After about two minutes I have oil all over the side of the alternator cover. I read on some threads this can be fixed with some high temp silicone. I do not like messing with a brand new motor but think I can get this one fixed (I am not even close to a mechanic, the only thing I do is change the oil). The second leak though is on that oil line that runs up to the head, at the timing drive shaft. I thought it was leaking at the drilled bolt that holds the line on but its not. Its leaking behind that plate with the two phillips head screws. I guess its the actual shaft. I can see in the service manual that there is a Rubber ring on this shaft. I'm thinking that this ring is damaged or something. I checked the torque on the drilled bolt and the two phillips screws and they are good. It looks like to change or check this ring the head needs removed and you need to hold up the actual gear while you remove the shaft. I have one hour on this bike and do not feel that I should have to tear apart the head to fix this issue from the factory. I called the local Husky dealer and he told me the warranty is only to replace the parts not the labor. I have had this bike for 12 days and put 1 hour on the bike. I am very frustrated. I have had two Kx 250f's with well over 100 hours without a single oil leak. It just doesn't make sense. I do love everything else about the bike though. I just think its absolutely ridiculous that you buy a brand new 2014 bike and have to pay for labor to fix factory issues. I will do it because I think the bike will be nice.

This thread is not just to complain. The other reason I bought this Husky was because of the support on this site, which is awesome. I am wondering if anyone else ran into a leak like this on these bikes, or have any suggestions? I'm just looking for a little help. Also is there any tricks to pulling off the alternator cover? I know its magnetized and needs a good pull. Anything else I should know?
Thanks
 
I think the leak you mean is the oil pickup line from the oil filter cover plate. Lay the bike on its left side and remove the 3 allen bolts on the bottom of the oil line to expose the oil filter and inspect the o ring seal. It all comes off in 1 piece. If it all looks good reinstall the cover and tighten it up good. If it is still leaking then the banjo bolts may need to be tightened on the oil line. Should fix er up good. Welcome BTW:cheers:

P.S. Sounds like you need to download the service manual to help guide you better. The dealer should have given you a electronic version on a flash drive.
 
Reveille,

I am not talking about the oil filter cover. The area I'm am talking about is higher, where the head lubrication pipe goes into cylinder head. That bolt threads into the timing drive shaft. The leak is coming from the behind the shaft.
 
On mine you can definitely see a gasket between the head and the plate. I don't see that on yours.
 
That plate is the end of the shaft for the intermediate gear. I wouldn't go pulling that one out. I think I'd be taking that back to the dealer.
 
Does anyone know anything about the warranty's on these bikes. I understand that its a race model and they give a 30 day warranty. The dealer is trying to say that is on parts only. That makes no sense to me. What if there is a bad $5.00 part inside the motor that needs replaced. Labor could be $400.00 to pull everything apart and reassemble. The part would be $5.00. Will they only pay the $5.00 for the part? I just don't understand that, especially when the bike only has an hour on it.
 
Mine came with a 6 month factory warranty. Covers everything. New red heads may be 30 days? Either way it covers everything.
 
Do you have any paperwork that came with the bike that details the warranty?

reveille, I believe the TE warranty is 6 months while the TXC is only 30 days. I sure hope I don't have any problems with mine. I bought it a couple months ago but have not yet ridden it.

I checked my bike...no visible gasket in that area. Parts diagrams show only an o-ring.
 
I know blackheads use a gasket. Red heads must be different.

It would be an easy fix if you decide to do it yourself. You will need to pull the valve cover.
 
I gather you already tried tightening the 2 screws? Stupid question I guess but just tryin to cover the basics.
 
Does anyone know anything about the warranty's on these bikes. I understand that its a race model and they give a 30 day warranty. The dealer is trying to say that is on parts only. That makes no sense to me. What if there is a bad $5.00 part inside the motor that needs replaced. Labor could be $400.00 to pull everything apart and reassemble. The part would be $5.00. Will they only pay the $5.00 for the part? I just don't understand that, especially when the bike only has an hour on it.

Or... Remove 12mm banjo bolt and two Phillips screws. Remove faulty o-ring. Replace with new $5 o-ring. Replace two Phillip screws. Replace banjo bolt. :rolleyes:
 
Or... Remove 12mm banjo bolt and two Phillips screws. Remove faulty o-ring. Replace with new $5 o-ring. Replace two Phillip screws. Replace banjo bolt. :rolleyes:
Like I said in the opening post, I am no mechanic. I can do a few things. If it is that easy to replace the o ring I will be overjoyed . But I thought by looking at the service manual that the head needs pulled off and the cams need pulled out . Then then the shaft needs pulled out and the gear supported. I was worried about messing with this gear. I have checked the torque on the Banjo bolt and the Phillips head screws. They are good. I was actually hoping that Tinken would comment on this. By reading these threads the last few weeks, it seems he has a lot of experience with these motors. So do the cams need to come out or can the shaft just be pulled and new Phillips screws and a new banjo bolt?
 
How do you install the o-ring without removing the shaft?
You're right, I was thinking about a different engine. Have to hold the chain and sprocket and pull the shaft. Easier to have someone replace the o-ring so you can re-insert it back in.
 
I wish you were located closer to us. Course if you did, you'd end up spending a lot more money on other goodies...
I don't feel that this is a complicated job, but I wouldn't want you to drop the chain down.

upper_banjo.jpg
 
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