• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

HELP!!! CRANKSHAFT REBUILD

Spankymat

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi all

Have a 2011 TE449 with dead crank. Bought a new BMW 450 crank and the key ways are different size.......after all the "they're the same engine" hype....no they're not 8-(

Anyhow, need to try to make a good one out of the two now, my hurdle is i can't get the bushing or pulley off the old crank. The manual shows a "tool" to heat to 300° C which then grips the bushing to remove.
The CLOSEST thing/tool i have found are "open bit tongs" that blacksmiths use. However, it needs to be the right size.......

ANYONE got a plan for crank rebuild????

Thanks in advance

Spanky
 
get the BMW rotor- you'll be golden. It's cheaper, too. (or take the crank to a machinist with the right sized broach).

I think everything else on the crank is the same. maybe. the keyway difference is known- do some searching here.

300°C? wow, thats getting hot.
 
ZipTy was working on a solution, but the crank specialist Ty spoke with couldn't do it. Still on the back burner of his mind though as he knows this is a problem for many people now or in the future.
 
ZipTy was working on a solution, but the crank specialist Ty spoke with couldn't do it. Still on the back burner of his mind though as he knows this is a problem for many people now or in the future.

if Ty decides to go for it- go with BMW crankshaft and mill an woodruff key that allows the use of a husky stator. That way, you kill two birds with one stone (2 markets with one crank).

And I guess you could mill a key that would work the other way too- allowing a Beamer rotor to work on a husky crank.

well, that is... if the cranks are the same otherwise. And I don't know if they are.
 
He was working on a way to rebuild the Kymco Husky crank.

yeah, I thought you were talking about making new cranks....

but hell, maybe call Taiwan and see if they'll send 50 Beamer or Husky cranks (I'm thinking they're making the beamer style) for a good price (eg $100/per) and make 25 special woodruff keys depending on which style arrives. Sell'em for $600 or whatever.

I'm thinking there's more BMWs out there than Huskys... but I'm not sure.
 
Well problem solved......i "removed" the old bushings from the dead crank and now have created another problem!
Does anyone the part numbers (or equivalent) for the thrust washer under the bushings? AND there is a "roller" (ball bearing, looks like) presumably to keep the bushing in place? But i can't find that in any parts manual or OEM parts supplier!!!

Sheeesh, this bike better be worth it when done****************************************
Any help gratefully received!
 
Hey trench! Sure.....here's some of the new G450X crank "exploded" showing the parts i mention. First is the bushing (in case anyone else needs the part no's) the first is 120G which is on the gear side. The other is same dimension-ally but is marked 119G, i believe
The second shows the "washer" i need to replace (this lives under the "non-gear" side) The third shows where the "roller" or ball bearing (as shown in the manual) lives.....the 2nd from right hole.20161216_170850.jpg20161216_170829.jpg20161216_170757.jpg
 
well, I thought that thing was an oil slinger or something... now I realize it's just damaged; I dunno what it is.

BTW, isn't your bushing just the inner race for the bearing?
 
The "Bushing" just part of the bearing and the "washer" is the shim to set the crank width. You need some side to side endplay when assembled so the crank can grow and shrink without being pinched by the cases.
 
Right....so finally getting close to finishing!
One last problem has presented itself.....i have a strange "bolt" left over from the engine parts.....not mentioned or shown in the WSM or parts manual****************************************!
Has someone just chucked this in there to make me crazy?????
It is NOT one of the two "fixed skate fixings" as shown on page 20 of the WSM (it is exactly the same, but larger)
It is not the rear fixing for the rear timing chain tensioner blade...........
ANYONE?????
20170201_213441.jpg20170201_213559.jpg
 

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