• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Help - brand new 2013 txc310r not starting

T

tjf

Husqvarna
C Class
Can anyone please help? I bought a new 2013 txc310r six hours away in PA back in Nov (I am in upstate NY). I just rode it for the first time Friday. After 15 minutes it stalled and will not start again hot or cold. Here is some info that might help.
1. It does backfire when trying to start.
2. It ran fine for the 15 minutes I rode it.
3. I have put in fresh gas and a new spark plug. I checked for spark and it is getting spark.
4. I can hear the fuel pump running so I think it is getting fuel. Plus I sprayed starter fluid into the air intake with the air filter out and then tried to start it but it made no difference.
5. I took the flywheel cover off to see the the flywheel nut was loose - it appears to be tight. I do not have a flywheel puller.
6. A small shop here did do the starter worm gear recall over the winter.

I see a lot of talk on the forums about the valves. Is it possible that the valves are out of spec and are the cause? It seems unlikey to me since it ran fine and won't start hot or cold.

Can anyone help?
 
Mine did the same thing and was a loose connector plugging into the harness that plugs into ecu .

Check every connector.



So go thru everything and I know you looked at flywheel nut but make sure it didn't shear the key.
 
Mike-AK said:
Does the pump make a gurgling noise, or just a hum?
Click to expand...
Both petcocks are on and pump makes more of a hum sound then gurgle sound I would say. I thought starter fluid would discount a fuel problem (ie it won't start with starter fluid either).
 
dartyppyt said:
Mine did the same thing and was a loose connector plugging into the harness that plugs into ecu .

Check every connector.



So go thru everything and I know you looked at flywheel nut but make sure it didn't shear the key.
Click to expand...
Did yours backfire? I'll double check the connections like you suggest. I guess I'll also have to pull the flywheel. Can you get a puller from some place like Harbor Freight?
 
I rode mine and it backfired and stalled. Would not start. Pushed it back to my shop and it started.

Next week rode it again and was riding a wheelie and it popped, stalled and wouldn't start.

Try pulling coil stick out and spark plug to see if you get spark?

I had none. I took to shop and first thing they checked was flywheel/key.

But we tried everything. Switching stators , coil stick , ecu, etc... Once in a while it would spark for couple of seconds.

Whomever put the harness in did not push a wire in to snap good enough into the connector .

That's all it was but we were stumped for 3 hours. Make sure you didn't have wire by something hot burn through .

Puller wise. No get the correct puller and think Zip Ty has them.

Also , if good dealer. They will probably just fix it even not under warranty.
 
Also, thought of something else. When I bought my 7602 covers. I took off my original cover and then started to remove stator and pick up trigger. Someone in factory got one of the pick up wire from trigger caught under the bracket when they installed it. It was smashed and wires were showing but did not ground out on cover yet.

Check there as well, cause it looks like it is easy to do when mounting the pick up trigger and bracket.
 
I would bet a temp sensor. They are known to go bad and will cause the bike not to start or run well if you can get it started. Relatively cheap and easy to replace
 
So - I'm betting/hoping that I have a sheared flywheel key. I had forgot to mention that it kicks over hard sometimes. I found a previous thread where someone had expeienced thie same symptoms and had a sheared key. They went on to say that "that advances IGN timing and makes it hard to crank over". I think a sheared key also explains the backfires. I have a flywheel puller and new keys being shipped from Central Jersey Husqvarna. Sure hope this ends up being it.
 
tjf said:
So - I'm betting/hoping that I have a sheared flywheel key. I had forgot to mention that it kicks over hard sometimes. I found a previous thread where someone had expeienced thie same symptoms and had a sheared key. They went on to say that "that advances IGN timing and makes it hard to crank over". I think a sheared key also explains the backfires. I have a flywheel puller and new keys being shipped from Central Jersey Husqvarna. Sure hope this ends up being it.
Click to expand...

That was my comment!

You mentioned the ring gear was replaced already? That is when mine did the same thing.

If it is kicking back....STOP trying to start it until you take the flywheel off and check.

You can crack the case where the worm gear is seated in the front if you keep trying to start it.

Zip Ty sells the flywheel puller and holder for tightening the flywheel bolt properly.

Most dealers just wack 'em with an airgun and shear them right then and there.
 
That's what I'm guessing on but like I said look at your wires going from stator to pick up to make sure they are not pinched under the bracket. While you are in there.

Can't see coil stick , ecu or etc... Being bad. Maybe a sensor but these bikes are pretty solid.
 
Ok - got the flywheel puller yesterday. Pulled the flywheel and .......... Yes - a sheared key! So I put a new key in and put it all back together and it started! So if anyone else has these symptoms: won't start but has spark and is getting fuel, backfires, and hard to kick over then CHECK FOR A SHEARED FLYWHEEL KEY!
A couple more questions:
1. I wanted to torque the flywheel to spec but did not buy the holder and could not come up with a creative way to hold the flywheel so I reluctantly used my electric Harbor Freight impact wrench. I did mark flywheel and shaft prior so after hitting it with impact I could check to see if it slipped. Appeaered to be ok. Anyone know what a cheap elec impact like mine probably torques to? If anything I'm guessing I am under torqued. Anyway it's back together and running for now.

2. I cannot break free the rear oil drain (one with metal screen filter and tube). I've just about stripped the 12mm head. Anyone else had this problem? I may never end up draining fron there. Anyone know how "bad" that would be?
 
use a 6 point wrench on the drain plug. its a good idea to clean the screen filter thats in there every once in a while.
 
Ughhhhh! I sheared another flywheel key today! I think there is a design flaw. Anyone else having repeat sheared keys? I took off the flywheel again and removed the sheared key. I then put the flywheel back on with no key and it almost seems like the flywheel is bottoming out (I think - but am not sure). In other words the taper on the shaft may be smaller diam than the flywheel hole. Is this possible? That would mean the only thing really holding the flywheel in place would be the key and torque of the nut. I did use an impact last time but I don't think I sheared the key when I torqued it down because I had marked both the shaft and flywheel and they seemed to stay in alignment right after torqueing. I do think that the key sheared when trying to start it with the electric start.......... I'm not really sure what to do - anyone got suggestions?
 
tjf said:
Ughhhhh! I sheared another flywheel key today! I think there is a design flaw. Anyone else having repeat sheared keys? I took off the flywheel again and removed the sheared key. I then put the flywheel back on with no key and it almost seems like the flywheel is bottoming out (I think - but am not sure). In other words the taper on the shaft may be smaller diam than the flywheel hole. Is this possible? That would mean the only thing really holding the flywheel in place would be the key and torque of the nut. I did use an impact last time but I don't think I sheared the key when I torqued it down because I had marked both the shaft and flywheel and they seemed to stay in alignment right after torqueing. I do think that the key sheared when trying to start it with the electric start.......... I'm not really sure what to do - anyone got suggestions?
Click to expand...

Like I mentiooed above, the problem is you spun the flywheel and the sheared key and gouged the flywheel up messing up the fit and then you just wacked it with an impact gun which is exactly why it sheared in the first place. It's not going to get better until you fix the problem.

The good news is I doubt the taper on the crank or the flywheel is wrong from the factory. I've had a few of these apart and all the cranks and flywheels are machined properly. Once you start shearing keys they start to become messed up. This is one part of the engine that has to be installed properly. It is like a 2 stoke flywheel on there with 13 to 1 compression and a starter spag behind it and it is designed just tight enough that it only works if it is installed perfectly.

IMHO the impact gun itself shears the key. You have to fix all the flywheel damage from the sheared key and match it too the crank end. You also should scratch up the surfaces a bit to remove high spots too. Check the fit with Prussian Blue. To install you have to immobilize at least the flywheel with a holder and maybe even the crank too with a gear jammer. Lastly you have to us a a torque wrench to tighten to spec. I use Loctite retaining compound also.

I have a 2010 Te250 and when the dealer changed the ring gear with an impact gun it sheared the next day.

I put mine back on as described and it stayed on with no trouble for 2 yrs until my starter sprag seized and I had to take it apart. I put my old ring gear back on with a new sprag and I am still using the same key!

Are you in NJ?
 
So is this what you suggest doing?:
1. Put lapping compound on shaft and then put flywheel on and move around. then take off flywheel.
2. Use Prussian blue to check for places where maybe there is no contact. Where do you buy prussian blue???
3. Repeat 1 & 2 as necessary.
4. Wipe clean
5. Use loctite blue on threads AND on shaft.
6. Put key and flywheel on and torque to spec using holder.

That sound about right? I am in Rochester, NY
 
tjf said:
So is this what you suggest doing?:
1. Put lapping compound on shaft and then put flywheel on and move around. then take off flywheel.
2. Use Prussian blue to check for places where maybe there is no contact. Where do you buy prussian blue???
3. Repeat 1 & 2 as necessary.
4. Wipe clean
5. Use loctite blue on threads AND on shaft.
6. Put key and flywheel on and torque to spec using holder.

That sound about right? I am in Rochester, NY
Click to expand...

Almost...

Remove the burr that more than likely will now be on your flywheel gently without tearing it up too much.

Use Prussian Blue to check fit...then....use a little valve lapping compound if needed...just a little and not too much pressure. It is aggressive. Then use Loctite retaining compound (903 or 980, I think) just put a little on the crank end. Don't put any on the threads.

Get the holder from Zip-ty and tighten to spec.

Enjoy your now correctly affixed flywheel.

McMaster Carr has everything you need.
 
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