250-500cc heat causing my '11 wr300 to cut out and stall. what could it be

[Kyle Tarry]

For the TMX, just run the stock (GAY) needle on the 4th clip, 35 pilot, 410-420 main. Should be good enough for a test ride.

What year did they switch ignitions? I thought it was 2012 for some reason, if so your 2011 and his 2014 would have different systems. I could have that year wrong, though. Actually, now that I think about it, it was 2010 right?

 

[Dirtdame]

What year did they switch ignitions? I thought it was 2012 for some reason, if so your 2011 and his 2014 would have different systems. I could have that year wrong, though. Actually, now that I think about it, it was 2010 right?

2011 was the first year for the Ducati, I think.

 

[Brian Scott]

2011 was the first year for the Ducati, I think.

Correct. 2011 and newer bikes have the Ducati ignition with the coil and cdi combined into a single black box, which makes checking the coil somewhat problematic.

 

[Motosportz]

Correct. 2011 and newer bikes have the Ducati ignition with the coil and cdi combined into a single black box, which makes checking the coil somewhat problematic.

Aw, forgot about that. yes, makes swapping a coil not an EZ thing.

 

[Brian Scott]

Ha ha I'm at Fort Ward... JD jet kit 32.5 410 white needle third clip with his richer nozzle tho too.

I agree it sounds electrical. However, swapping the carb is an easy way to totally eliminate that as a cause.

Next time it dies, check the spark.

After that, I'd probably go through systematically checking/swapping ignition parts. There isn't much to check: check that you have +12v at the coil, check the coil resistance, check the stator resistance, check wire continuity. After that, start swapping parts, it's really only the coil and the stator on these, if you have 12V.

Thanks for the jetting specs guys. I have the upgrade jetting kit that came w/the 2011 bikes so I'll set it up this weekend as best I can.

When I did some testing a few nights ago I got 12v at the brown wire between the stator and the regulator w/the bike running and the regulator plugged in (this is an AC system only). I did not test the coil voltage. How is this done? Also, what should the coil resistance and stator resistances be (primary and secondary)? The workshop manual does not provide data. Using a power drill w/the plug out I was able to turn the flywheel fast enough to measure 18 volts on the brown wire to the regulator (w/it unplugged) and 8 volts on the red wire that feeds into the coil. The lights and dash also lit up when doing this. The workshop manual says that it should be 35.5V at the brown wire, but I don't know how you're supposed to get the engine to 3000 rpm w/the regulator unplugged as it states to do.

 

[Crocus Paper]

I had a similar problem with my 2011 250, turned out to be the stator. What seemed to 'trigger' my problem was giving the stator a good blow with compressed air. Maybe the knock to your exhaust was just enough to finish yours off.

 

[shrubitup]

Sounds like shrubitup may be a willing donor since we apparently live only a few miles apart. You're right, it's not much to check, but if it's in the black box then I'm seriously considering putting some cash down for an '02 cr250 ignition and jd dual map cdi like Motorhead and ajaxauto did. Think I'd rather have the coil separate from the cdi now...

You can drop by and I'll let you borrow stuff. Maybe just take electrical measurements from mine to see if different?

 

[Brian Scott]

Hey Crocus Paper, how did you diagnose your faulty stator? Was it heat related like mine. Was that all you had to replace?

Shrubitup, maybe later this week I can come over after work to take some measurements and compare to what I've taken so far? I'm waiting for my flywheel puller to show up in the mail sometime this week so I can pull it and check out the stator and take a few more measurements. I'll bring a growler of libations from Walts . Shoot me a pm w/your address and phone # and we'll set up something.

 

[Crocus Paper]

Hey Crocus Paper, how did you diagnose your faulty stator? Was it heat related like mine. Was that all you had to replace?

Shrubitup, maybe later this week I can come over after work to take some measurements and compare to what I've taken so far? I'm waiting for my flywheel puller to show up in the mail sometime this week so I can pull it and check out the stator and take a few more measurements. I'll bring a growler of libations from Walts . Shoot me a pm w/your address and phone # and we'll set up something.

I cheated. Electrics turn my brain to pulp. I suspected the stator or coil, took it to a main dealer and he put a new stator on it and that cured it. It was a random intermitant problem for six months before I had a hard fault.

 

[broken biker]

my

So do you think it's a faulty trigger, timing issue, faulty coil or cdi? Can the voltage regulators go bad and wreck havoc on the ignition system or create shorts? This is all new to me and it's baptism by fire coming up to speed w/the entire electrical system.

on my 2012 wr 300 the stator was replaced under warranty after seizing twice[repaired under warranty,not a jetting issue]and that improved starting but it seized again.i replaced the voltage reg/rectifier after the auto elect tested entire ignition.the auto elect explained to me that the faulty/shorting out reg/rec was causing the spark to go to ground the most direct route so the spark [plug] was all over the place causing no spark/spark/weak spark and causing seizures

 

[ks9mm]

How can no spark cause seizure? detonation from pre-ignition maybe, but seizure?

no spark means no heat in the engine, and if piston moves up and down, you should have lubrication..

 

[lankydoug]

How can no spark cause seizure? detonation from pre-ignition maybe, but seizure?

no spark means no heat in the engine, and if piston moves up and down, you should have lubrication..

It's not the no spark but faulty ignition timing (too much advance) causing kickback on start up and detonation while running. Timing and poor fuel quality problems are often misdiagnosed as lean condition when someone is looking at the aftermath of a engine failure.

 

[Xcuvator]

It's not the no spark but faulty ignition timing (too much advance) causing kickback on start up and detonation while running. Timing and poor fuel quality problems are often misdiagnosed as lean condition when someone is looking at the aftermath of a engine failure.

Makes sense Doug.
BTW, nice to see you round here again.

 

[Brian Scott]

Update: faulty stator was the cause of my stalling issues. It looked fine to me so it was likely the trigger as Bill at BMP suspected. Thanks Bill! Put a new stator on last Sunday and went on a hot and punishing ride at green and gold mountain filled with ridiculously difficult hill climbs. Really got the motor loaded and hot with not a single issue. My steed performed flawlessly. It even starts easier even with the headlight and speedo hooked up. Thanks everyone for your helpful insights. I appreciate it.