• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Head rebuild parts cost

T

T.Read

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm starting to think maybe my TC is needing a rebuild. I keep having starting issues and the last few rides, after it gets hot, it sounds like there might be metal on metal happening. Could be another issue, but I kinda want to open it up and see what's going on.

It was getting really hard to start a while back, but I found out it was dumping all my coolant and just overheating from a leak at the hose junction. Fixed that and it seemed to be fine for the last few rides. The last two rides however, once it gets hot again, it's a pain in the ass to start. Today was so bad I had to push it out of the woods and load up and go home. The radiators were full.

I want to get to the bottom of the issue and sell it. I really don't want to put too much money into it because I'm already going to lose quite a bit on it.

I do all my own work and I have the tooling to rebuild heads available through a friend. About how much would I be looking at to replace valves and guides and springs? I thought about getting an Athena 300 kit, but if I do that, I'm keeping it. My thought in selling it is to get a 2 stroke because I'm not wanting to deal with head rebuilds after this one anymore.

Also, as far as cylinders go, do people generally re-sleeve these, or is it possible to re-bore to clean them up and get a bigger piston? On my old bikes, we can bore out to .060, but I didn't know if the cylinder on these would allow that.
 
You may just have tight valves that require shimming. I would look at the easy things first. I had a 510 that was running really poorly and dying. I thought I had water in the fuel so I went through the fuel system including the carb and the problem persisted. I ended up needing just a new plug for 6 bucks.
 
That's not it. Checked them before the last two rides and they were right in the middle. Same as they were the last time I checked them which was a while ago after a bunch of rides. Plug looked good as well, but I didn't check for spark while I was there.
 
Here's a thought, pull the head and look at whether it's a head gasket leak, plus then you would see if it requires a rebuild. The cylinder cannot be bored as it is nikisil plated. If your head does require repair, try and find a decent one from ebay as new valves, guides and seats costs are high ($1500+).
 
Ah sounds like you are having same issues as me!!!
I've been chasing my tail for some time, have improved difficult starting only to have this hot running cutout issue. Folks here have given lots of advice on another thread I started.
I also had a gaping hole in the hose t connector that 2 bike shops missed!
Now have cool red hoses but they aren't really helping apart from sex appeal!
 
I was kinda wondering if there was a head gasket leak since I keep having to add coolant every ride. But I figured this was due to dropping it in the woods and some leaking out that way. The oil didn't look too milky last time I drained it, but it didn't look completely black or tan either. If it is leaking, I think it's very minimal, but that is one thing I'm looking for definitely. I really hope I don't need a rebuild as I really want to sell this and move on. I'd hate to sink all that money into it just to lose it all when I resell. I'm already not going to make any of the money I got in it back.

The thing that gets me is I had so many good rides on it until the weather got colder after I fixed the T hose connector. It just started doing this again and I'm stumped. I hate having something so new give me so many fits. All my other bikes are older and I never have a problem out of them like this.

Normally before the temp dropped outside, it was a one kick when cold with choke on starter. When hot, usually one or two with the hot start out or would fire up fairly easy on the electric start. One thing I noticed the other day was it felt like the kicker was grabbing the electric start. It did this not too long ago and finally stopped, not sure if the clutch needs some kind of adjustment, or something else involved in the starter. It used to be fairly easy to start in gear with the clutch pulled in, or without it, even though it has a Rekluse Z-start. Now it has to be in neutral.
 
T.Read said:
I was kinda wondering if there was a head gasket leak since I keep having to add coolant every ride.

One thing I noticed the other day was it felt like the kicker was grabbing the electric start. It did this not too long ago and finally stopped,
Click to expand...

I had a head gasket go bad, not much fluid ever made it to the oil, it was all used up in the combustion chamber, hard starting/no starting when hot and setting for 10 minutes was my symptom

I have had the kicker turning the elec starter as well, it goes away, I haven't worried about it too much.
 
Well, thanks for that...gives me hope it's maybe not too serious. Probably start tearing into it today. I'll post my findings for future reference in case someone else has similar issues.
 
Ah, yes I forgot about that. Read your thread a while back. Thanks. I'll check all that tomorrow if I can stand the cold shop.
 
Pulled the head off today. Looks like that may be the problem. I had breaks in the gasket worse than yours OHR.

The cylinder. Notice the discoloration between the water channels on the bottom of the image. Same spot yours was.



One part of the gasket. Think this was inside next to the metal center.



The metal center part of the gasket.



The head.



Beyond all that, the cylinder wall looked good. No excessive glazing, still saw some crosshatch with a few vertical lines from the ring gap. Carbon really isn't as bad as I expected. Valve clearance before I took everything down had tightened up a little, but still within spec.

If anything jumps out at anyone that you can tell from these pics, let me know. Really hoping this is all that I have to worry about for now.
 
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