• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

head bolt

ct cr430

ct cr430

Husqvarna
AA Class
Anyone else have this problem ? Last night I was putting the head back onto an 81 cr430 and ran a into a problem . Previous owner had inserted a helicoil and it's pulling out . Any suggestions ? I might be able to remove old helicoil and reset new one lower . Maybe time sert or or maybe fill the hole , drill and retap . Just want to get it right .
 
it shouldn't pull out. Is the stud threaded deep enough in the case? Do you know if they are metric ?
I seen people do silly things. I wonder if he installed the wrong size helicoil? The wrong width thread insert.
That's the only way I could see it pull out. Is the material in the case solid and not corroded or soft?


When I was building the 155mm howitzers for the U.S. army everything was helicoiled. We used a lacquer paint to glue the helcoiled in the threaded holes. I never seen them pull out.
 
I'm having the problem with the small bolt that threads in over the exhaust port . Not much room between the hole and the liner . The 4 studs are good and the other bolt over the intake , those I can get to torque down without any problems .
 
Is the bolt too long? If it bottoms the helicoil may pull up.

There is a installation tang on the bottom of the helicoil that were suppose to break off once the helicoil is installed. Then remove it from the hole.

Is it metric or English thread?
 
Bolt doesn't bottom out . Measured depth of hole vs length of both that protrudes from under side of head without washer to make sure . The installation tang seems to be gone , probed around in hole with a pick . Helicoil visually moved , now near top of hole . Should be able to grab it and try to remove . If I have the clearance thinking about trying a time sert . Getting opinion's and ideas before I process , don't want to make it worse .
 
Previous owner helicoiled hole to 5/16 18 . 8mm bolt is slightly larger but is 1.25 pitch . Trying not to lose whatever metal I have available to repair this . The bolt hole over the intake has also been helicoiled but does torque down without issues , maybe front hole over exhaust was affected due to heat , not sure on that . Maybe just previously bad install of helicoil .
 
Your using a 5/16-18 bolt right?

If your worried about the bolt and heat there are dorman products that offer like exhaust manifold bolts.
The older automotive parts houses carry the dorman products. Or search online. There not expensive.
Fix it once and forget about it.

Or go with a grade 8 bolt.
 
Not worried about the bolt any the heat just trying to figure out best plan of attack to repair threads of the hole in the cylinder that the front head bolt over the exhaust port . Heat may have contributed to the helicoil or the metal the helicoil was threaded into . It's pulling out of the cylinder . Somehow those threads will have to be repaired before the head can be installed again .
 
I know it's a pain, but your best bet is to remove the cylinder and take it to an engineering shop that knows what they are doing with helicoil inserts.
There are many types out there in the market. The shop should be able to remove the old incorrect one and bore the hole larger and fit the correct M8 coil with an oversize O.D.
It is worth doing it right.
 
I agree , it is worth doing it right ... and the first time . I just don't want this to be an ongoing problem . The one big problem with this is it's location to the liner , not much left . A friend is suggesting a TIME SERT , just don't know about clearance . Thanks for the suggestion about a machine shop , I would just need to find a good 1 that I could trust . I just hope this is a one shot deal to do it right and have it be wrong .
 
You can use a pointed pic to pull the helical out. Start to unwind it with a pic then a pliers will unwind it slowly. I've pulled and replaced delicious before.
 
I have used Time Sert as well as their oversized insert, known as a Big Sert (used to repair your type of situation). I have also used Heli Coil many times in various applications I find the Time Sert is much better than the Heli Coil in these engines, due to it being a solid machined insert. On the Time Sert website, there is a link to their engineering dimensions, you may be able to get some idea as to whether you have enough room for the oversized Big Sert.
Hope it comes out well for you.
 
Right now the coil is just at the top edge and was able to get it off the top thread . Haven't tried to remove yet , just waiting to see how I decide to do this . Glad to hear SteveJ recommend this also , I'm not going to rush this . Like the old saying measure 2x , cut once . Don't want to replace cylinder or pull sleave and try to have welded just looking for alternatives . Has anyone tried a time sert in this location ?
 
replace it and Never torque those bolts until the 4 studs are done
Often why the bolt holes fatigue is it is aluminum for the stand alone bolt holes and to torque to even 27 pds wears on the aluminum after years. There are people out there who do things wrong.
 
Always would torque 4 nuts on the studs 1st . Then the 2 smaller bolts to 14 lbs as per spec . Or does anyone recommend less on these 2 bolts ?
 
AJS Stormer head has the same bolt head layout but they use studs in to the alloy, loctite them in and you only ever undo the nuts!
 
Is the torque rating different on different size engines ? or is there a rule of thumb number you guys shoot for?
 
I just go with what the manual says. I always reckon that the Husqvarna R & D department know more than me. So far in my 42 years of riding and building bikes that has been the case. One or two tricks picked up on the way, but they still know their stuff.
 
ct cr430 said:
Previous owner helicoiled hole to 5/16 18. quote]

If the previous owner didn't helicoil the damaged hole to an m8 X 1.25 then I think you found the problem. Even though 5/16" is the same dia as m8 the thread pitch between the coarse thread 5/16 helicoil and the m8 X 1.25mm head bolt is difference.

I've installed many helicoils on Huskys with great results but I've never had to remove one.

I would like to know how you eventually get the helicoil out so please post your results and if possible post some pics. Pictures help bring out the circumstances you are dealing with. Thanks!
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