• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

has anyone else modded the te310 stock can?

bent70

bent70

Husqvarna
AA Class
I plan on getting the open pipe map flashed soon and was looking at affordable ways to open up the exhaust. I went from the zipty fmf can to the idea of modding a clearanced FMF 4.1 exhaust off a kx450. I ended up just experimenting by drilling the rivots out of the stock can and seeing what I had to work with. Basicly, the inside of the can was fiberglass surrounding a perferated steel inner cylinder with a perferated plate blocking off the inside of the cylinder halfway down. I just drilled out the tacks and pounded the plate out allowing for an unrestricted flow though. I then rivoted the can back together and it is barely louder, only when you get on the throttle. Next is to get the remap to open pipe and hopefully get the gains I need out of this bike down low.
 
I hope you first disconnected the tailpipe from the header and let that honeycomb insert fall out.....
 
Nope. 511 is in the lower end of the tailpipe canister...you will find a couple of threads about the joy of modding that...
 
oregonsage said:
Nope. 511 is in the lower end of the tailpipe canister
Click to expand...

Okay, that's what I thought. But I just wanted to verify since I put a FMF on mine and got worried that the cat is still in the mid-pipe :thumbsup:


oregonsage said:
you will find a couple of threads about the joy of modding that...
Click to expand...


Yea, I went through it on different brand bike. By the time you pay for materials/tools and the time it takes to cut through all that damned metal :banghead: ...It wasn't worth it to me so I just bought a FMF.
 
Nope have not had the time to go get it remapped yet. Yes the cat is gone from the mid pipe and the piece I took out was a bitch....involving a drill bit and 1 1/4" pipe and some anger beating on it.
 
bent70 said:
Nope have not had the time to go get it remapped yet. Yes the cat is gone from the mid pipe and the piece I took out was a bitch....involving a drill bit and 1 1/4" pipe and some anger beating on it.
Click to expand...

Kinda late notice(sorry) but my cat converter was tight too but a few hits with a torch and out she popped.:thumbsup:
 
The perferated steel I took out sucked, the dealer had already pulled my cat....less work for me.
I just need to head out to vacaville some day(1hr away) and save $60 of expendable cash for the flash.
 
Which rivets did you drill out? The ones adjacent to the mid-pipe, or the ones by the cap? How hard is it to get it back together? Thanks.
 
Mike-AK said:
Which rivets did you drill out? The ones adjacent to the mid-pipe, or the ones by the cap? How hard is it to get it back together? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Not my thread but I did this mod recently too...

You don't need to remove the rivets on the cap end, just the midpipe end. It came apart easy with a few light hammer taps on the pipe bracket.
The baffle is a little tricky to get out. I lightly center punched the spot welds, drilled small pilot holes then put a 6-7mm drill thru. Tapped the baffle around with a small punch through the perforations and it eventually fell out.
Also installed a cut down DB Killer.
One ride so far and it is a bit louder but power seems better in mid to top end.
Getting it back together is easy. Just make sure you've got a good rivet gun if you use SS rivets. (I broke mine!)
 
Just as he said....rivots at the mid pipe....nextime, as if there will be, I would just cut the metal out with a cutting wheel and weld the cylinder back up.
 
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