• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc FWW on WR250

MOTORHEAD;48489 said:
What's the OFG clutch mod?
Click to expand...
Beats me too. I wondered if it might be the removal of a couple of springs, but if so I can't think what this particular TLA stands for. :thinking:

One Finger Grab?
Often Feels Good?
 
Do you have to pull the actuator shaft up out of the engine, and drop it back in through the hole in the extension arm?
 
Yeah, Surfer knows it:thumbsup: OFG is just Old Fat Guy. He's where I learned the trick but it's been around much longer. I heard Yamaha use to sell extensions for the actuator arm years ago.

The one I did doesn't connect as far out on the end as OFG did. In fact, mine connects right beyond the original arm. You'll notice that OFG's cable hits the breather tube coming out of the case. Mine doesn't. All you need is a little more leverage and it works wonders.

I cut mine out of a circular saw blade (think hardened steel). The hole in the center of the circular saw blade is where new arm rotates (if that makes sense)...I'm probably not wording it right. Below is a pic of OFG's. I'll try to post a picture of mine tomorrow. I cut it out of the saw blade using a dremel. It's a very simple thing to do and well worth it. :thumbsup:

IMG_1956.jpg
 
Oh, I think I get it now. You cut through the center of the hole in the saw blade, leaving it open on one side,...and then the finished product just sort of 'saddles' on the actuator shaft under the original arm,....right?
 
surfer1100;48730 said:
You bought your bike off OFG didn't you? It should be on there then. It is just an extension of the clutch actuating arm where the cable enters the engine.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=567467
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Didn't have one on there when I got the bike, but could explain why the push rod jumped past the arm shaft the first time I went to ride it. :eek:

I had to split the cases to get it out, and replace both parts.

BTW- Guys have been doing that sort of stuff for years. Use to see it more before they started enclosing all the clutch arms. Now most bikes don't have enough room to do that.
 
To help soften the clutch pull, I just add a spring to the clutch arm (where you show the extention) and pull tension on the spring in the direction of cable travel. Helps make the first part of the clutch pull much easier and by the time the spring is no longer helping with the pull, you are half way into the pull and no longer need the extra help. Keep the cable lubed well and clutch lever, that also helps.
If you add the extention, make sure to align the cable to follow the new angle it will be pulled from.
 
Boom Boom said:
To help soften the clutch pull, I just add a spring to the clutch arm (where you show the extention) and pull tension on the spring in the direction of cable travel. Helps make the first part of the clutch pull much easier and by the time the spring is no longer helping with the pull, you are half way into the pull and no longer need the extra help. Keep the cable lubed well and clutch lever, that also helps.
If you add the extention, make sure to align the cable to follow the new angle it will be pulled from.
Click to expand...

I like this. I know this is an older thread, but I'm wondering where you hook the other end of the spring?
 
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