• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Fuel pump relay fast clicks twice, no priming, no starting.

OlderHuskyRider

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Fuel pump relay clicks on and off within a quarter second. It's supposed to click on...prime the injector 3 secs...click off.

Battery is strong, 12.8v standing, no decrease in voltage when key is switched on.

Fuel pump is fine, I put 12v to it and it spins freely.

Relay is actually burping the fuel pump with the micro-burst of 12v, when it clicks on and then off really fast.

All 3 relays on the bike are doing the same thing. Hard to believe 3 relays all go bad over the span of 3 days.

All grounds are good, unchanged from when the bike ran 3 days ago.

None of the 4 wires going into the relay are grounded. Fuse is good.

The relay double-clicks fast with the fuel pump hooked up to it or not.

Dash shows a FAIL message, no codes, but the system sees something wrong.

I feel that I did something while I was changing the head gasket. I have been over and over all the wires under the tank, nothing seems to have been damaged. The relay primed the fuel pump on Sunday, right before I started tearing the bike down.
__________________
 
All 3 relays have a Brown with white stripe wire. Is this the common ground wire? Should it show to be grounded?

UPDATE
None of the wires show to be grounded so I'll have to figure out some other way to test the wiring, Brown white shows good continuity between all 3 relays.

UPDATE
Even though I am pretty sure it's not the relay, I will attempt to find one of these at the auto store this morning
HuskyRelay_zps22968a74.jpg
 
Can anyone confirm that the ECU is responsible for the 3 second priming of the fuel pump at KEY ON, the relay is really not smart enough to do that step, correct?
 
Can anyone confirm that the ECU is responsible for the 3 second priming of the fuel pump at KEY ON, the relay is really not smart enough to do that step, correct?

Yes this is ECU controlled. It sounds like a wiring fault and as the dash is showing fail there is clearly something out of range. Plug it in to Ibeat / HST and that should give you a good starting point.


Dave
 
Yes this is ECU controlled. It sounds like a wiring fault and as the dash is showing fail there is clearly something out of range. Plug it in to Ibeat / HST and that should give you a good starting point.
Dave

Don't have ibeat, pretty sure I can fix this problem without a computer, by hook or by crook.....

If the ECU controls the 3 sec prime, and the Yellow with green wire is the connection between the relay and the ECU, I'll go and have a look at that run of wire.

Thanks for the response Dave.
 
Has anyone ever had their tank off the bike, fuel pump unplugged and then turn the key on? Does the ECU then NOT allow the relay to prime the pump?

Anybody have their tank off the bike?

Perhaps I have a fault in a wire to the fuel pump, so even when it's on the bike and plugged in, the ECU thinks the fuel pump is missing and doesn't allow the relay to do the 3 sec prime. That would explain why it acts the same whether the tank is on the bike or off the bike.

UPDATE
This one is not holding up because I have seen the fuel pump burping for the 1/4 second that the relay is allowing power to the pump, so I am pretty sure the wiring is good to the pump.

UPDATE
That one is NOT my aha moment, I pulled the fuel pump out of the tank, hooked it to its connector and checked continuity from the Green with red wire at the relay to the end of the red wire that hooks into the fuel pump, tests OK. So does the Blue ground wire.
 
Yes this is ECU controlled. It sounds like a wiring fault and as the dash is showing fail there is clearly something out of range.
Dave

A question for all who are reading:

What devices/wires would cause the ECU to cut the power to the fuel pump:

Tilt Sensor? - I know the TE models have the sensor itself blanked off under the seat, BUT do the Orange, Black, Green with black wires still operate to send signals to the ECU, like if they were rubbed bare and shorting out?

Clutch interlock - Does the pink wire talk to the ECU or does it only disable the Start button?

Anyone have any other info on stuff that talks to the ECU and might cause the ECU to shut of the fuel pump power?
 
The Black wire shows to connect to Tilt Sensor, o2 Sensor, MAQS sensors, the WTS (???), and the ECU. It is grounded. Is this the common ground for all the sensors, and it IS supposed to be grounded right?

Is the Orange wire on the Tilt Sensor supposed to be grounded with some resistance?
 
Cant help with everything , but if the tilt sensor "plug" fails , bike will run but show "Fail" on Dash.

I had a similar problem on a 2010 TE450 and got a new wiring loom under Warranty .
 
Dave, I found another thread where you typed the info below, so I off to check the 2 wires to the injector! Fingers crossed!

Check the fuses under the sidepanel - I can't remember which one it is but one fuse feeds the power to the injector / fuel pump circuit and if that fuses pops the ECU thinks there is an EFI fault as there's nothing coming back from the injector.

Also if the injector wiring is disconnected or damaged, then the fuel pump won't run. Software seems to say 'no injector, therefore no need for fuel pressure'.

The flashing neutral light just shows there is an EFI/ECU fault - there is no code to interpret.

If all else fails plug it in to Ibeat, that will tell you what is at fault.
Good luck!
Dave
 
Dave, I found another thread where you typed the info below, so I off to check the 2 wires to the injector! Fingers crossed!

I was scrolling down to post the same info! DG Harv can confirm this to be true, we bypassed the loom on his bike to get it running a few years back.

Dave
 
Thanks to Dave and anyone else having to put up with my drama. Problem was at the 2 connectors to the aftermarket fuel pump I run, so yeah, the connectors are my work, I only wrapped the positive with some wire wrap, and left the negative bare, well, 2 years and 12,500 miles of vibrations wore thru the wrap and suddenly, right after I finish a head gasket, the positive and negative connectors at the fuel pump decide to start touching! I re-wrapped BOTH of them and the fuel pump spun right up, 2-3 seconds of rapturous priming sound! Electrics, I suck at....

HuskyBadConnex_zpsf0ab4e75.jpg
 
I have 4000 miles on my 2010 TE310. So....... I watch you adventures very carefully. Thanks for all the great posts OHR.
 
Most of the things that brake on my husky are things that I have broken when I am fixing something that I broke..

Yeah, I fixed my head gasket, then I had to fix my fuel pump NOW the bike wont hold an idle, after spending 2 years idling at 1900 on the dot. Time for a new thread.
 
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