• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

front wheel alignment please help

megagobby

megagobby

Husqvarna
B Class
on my wr 250 83 i cant seem to get the front wheel to line up correctly. i need to get it over to the left side a bit more. but having trouble. maybe the lert side spacer is too wide ?? not sure because its a fixed spacer. is this correct ? any pics will help me along . thanks all
 
megagobby;141759 said:
on my wr 250 83 i cant seem to get the front wheel to line up correctly. i need to get it over to the left side a bit more. but having trouble. maybe the lert side spacer is too wide ?? not sure because its a fixed spacer. is this correct ? any pics will help me along . thanks all
Click to expand...

i moved the spacer inwards to move wheel over . think it sorted.
 
the second pic is the same as mine. all i did was move the spacer on th oposite side over to the left to push over to centralise wheel . is this safe and ok ??
 
To answer your question: YES

In more detail...Here is what I learned through this from several people here on the forum....and actually did.

1) Leave the four axle pinch bolts on each fork leg loose...

2) Tighten the axle nut with all spacers in place on the axle.

3)Slide the tightened axle with spacers left or right and check for the wheel being centered........make sure that the quick pull handle has room and is not completely against the fork leg.

4) Once wheel/axle is centered, tighten the four pinch bolts on the brake backer side( left side or clutch handle side of bike) (Note that once you have done this once you should never have to loosen this side ever again)

5)Hold the front brake on and pump the forks a few times to help center /locate the axle in the forks / roll front wheel apply brakes a few times

6)Now go to the opposite fork leg and tighten the four pinch bolts on the right side of bike and your done...

For Reference: Next time you need to remove the wheel all you will need to do is loosen the axle nut on the brake backer side and then loosen the four pinch bolts on the right side of bike and the axle will pull right out.... (note that you will not loosen the other side pinch bolts (brake backer side)as this clamped in spacer now has your centering alignment set) This is the way the quick pull axle is supposed to work... once you have gone through this set up once it now becomes quick and easy each time thereafter...

T
 
I was going crazy yesterday trying to reinstall my '74 front wheel. Had all the spacers correct per the manual, but the wheel seemed to 'float' on the axle (i.e. wheel wasn't tight / secure between the fork tubes). I centered it and tightened the pinch bolts per above, but was left wondering if something was still wrong. Sounds like this is correct for Huskys : )
 
don't forget to measure the fork sliders just under the fork boots and just over the hub to make sure they are parallel. bouncing the forks may not always have the forks parallel
 
Use calipers and keep the forks parallel next manufacture spacers to keep the wheel in the centre of the forks.
 
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