• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Front axle hex nut?

Kyle Tarry said:
This is what I don't get. It's like a scam to sell wrenches. I think the combined front/rear axle wrench is a good idea, but why not make it in a useful size?

I already have a 27mm axle wrench (on my motion pro tire iron) in my toolkit. I don't need another. I already have a 14mm wrench in my toolkit. Why should I buy a front axle nut that I have to buy a special wrench to use?

I'd love to not have to carry a piece of allen key (steadydirt, the washer in the middle idea is brilliant!), but I'm not going to trade my piece of allen key for a giant wrench that costs me another 20 bucks.

Ok, sorry, I am done ranting on this topic. :cheers:
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Just FYI, when we developed the axle nut husky still gave each new bike an axle wrench that had the infamous 15/27 combo.
 
My front axle nut takes a 3/8" socket extension and will never strip out. I carry a T-handle and a few sockets when I'm out in the desert.


 
Tinken said:
My front axle nut takes a 3/8" socket extension and will never strip out. I carry a T-handle and a few sockets when I'm out in the desert.


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Ive been waiting to see one of those ever since HVNA Pres Odwarka told me about them....
 
BiG DoM said:
I know that this is the fix on some of the BMW oilheads (well sump drainplug actually) and was wondering. Can anyone confirm? Not keen to drop my oil to find out... :rolleyes: The parts diagram only gives the axle nut as 'screw' ... which in fact it is rather than a nut. The two drain plugs measure M 14X1.25 and M 22X1.5 ... guess may need to get that vernier out. The thread pitch is critical as well.
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NO - drainplugs will not fit ... axle screw is 20mm ... drain plugs 14mm and 22mm. Screw is identical to that on my BMW G450X front axle which is the same axle as many KTM's I think ...
 
I called Zip-Ty racing on your behalf, they are looking up the sizes I'll let you know when they get back to me. :)
 
You guys are way over tightening this thing if you are ripping the head off. All it does is snug the axle to that side and the pinch bolts hold it in place.
 
Motosportz said:
You guys are way over tightening this thing if you are ripping the head off. All it does is snug the axle to that side and the pinch bolts hold it in place.
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Yeah I realise this but the spec was 51 Nm and I did not even go that high. Next time will not even put the torque wrench on it.
 
i swear i loose the 12mm wrench so often. before the nut gets to the pad i just use a 12mm shouldered head bolt with two or three nuts swedged on it. 12mm inny comes right out. matter of fact pull that inny nut first thing and grease it so it dont get stuck before the new hex nut comes. loose the axle clamp first!
 
I have the nut because the 3/8 socket fitting is convient and Ty added to my 511 as part of the suspension package. Ty's or Motosportz nut would both work equally well
 
BiG DoM said:
Yeah I realise this but the spec was 51 Nm and I did not even go that high. Next time will not even put the torque wrench on it.
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Don't forget that threads that have been overtightened in the past or lubricated can't always handle the correct torque when measured with an accurate torque wrench.
 
Xcuvator said:
Don't forget that threads that have been overtightened in the past or lubricated can't always handle the correct torque when measured with an accurate torque wrench.
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Good point and I think mine had some anti seize on it ....
 
BiG DoM said:
Good point and I think mine had some anti seize on it ....
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When I use anti-sieze on threads, I usually reduce the applied torque by 20%. Our bikes have aluminum in many places to save weight, aluminum threads will wear faster than steel, especially if over tightened for one reason or another. Once the threads start to wear their strength can go away quickly....
 
Was the failure a failure of the threads, or a failure of the allen key hole, or something else? I don't fully understand what broke.
 
I stopped using torque wrenches years ago. Got a long explanation from an old time mechanic who knows literally everything. The torque figures will be wildly off if using lube, anti seize, loc tite or the threads are not 100% perfect and clean. Just learn how tight something feels. You will be surprised how good you will get at feeling the right amount. Also mark everything before taking it off, then when retightening you can see if you are tighter or looser than you were.
 
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