• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Fork oil in 06 WR125

J

James Patton

Husqvarna
AA Class
How much are you guys running? I know my manual says 3.18 but hoping to learn something.
Just put new fork seals in, I use the bike for tight single track, and playbikeing, I like it almost
trials like, suggestions?
 
So anyway, I disassembled the forks several times aligning springs, rod, some truing on the tubes, till they moved
smoothly, disregarded oil instructions in manual. Keep trying different levels till it felt right.
Took it to ride yesterday, played with the adjustments, it is really nice small bump and very progressive.
could not believe that getting the springs unbound and getting things working smoothly could make so much
Difference. It took me about 4 hrs., but it was worth it. Ended up with almost a full bottle of 2.5wt. PJ1 in each
Fork leg. Was not aware the tube were not true. Used a dial indicator, V blocks, a large C clamp to true, there
Was a small amount of binding that seemed amplified when reassembled. Once that was removed they work as
They should.
 
FYI, forks should be filled by oil level, not oil volume. In other words, fill it until the oil is at the correct depth from the top of the tube (fully compressed, springs out). Don't worry too much about how much fluid they take, I just use that as an indicator of how much to expect to use.
 
3.2" is about 80mm, which is higher than most people usually run. If it's working for you, I suppose go for it, but usually people run 110-90mm.
 
I started at 3.25, and worked my way down, I don't know what the measurement was at the end.
Somewhere around 650 cc and they are right where I want them. I think getting them working smoothly, and
everything aligned properly is more important than oil level. If these other items are not correct the oil level is moot.
 
upto 135mm from top if you want them plush drill out the base valve orifices to 3.5mm i did a thread on this mod a while back look up on the search for 45mm shiver mods.
 
Here's the link to your thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/45-shiver-mod.27271/

You say "drilled out the bleed holes" but you also say "just enough so they do not effect the shim sealing surfaces." Generally, "bleed holes" are any holes that allow oil to get through the valve without having to go past the shims. Did you drill/add bleed holes, or did you enlarge the existing ports behind the shims?

You also say "also positioned one of the smaller shims behind the largest shim to help with the flex." Can you clarify what shim stack you ended up with, or how you changed it?

I am probably pulling my Shiver 45s apart this weekend and I am going to work on both of these things, I have some plans of my own but would be curious what you did.
 
my bad terminology not bleed holes but enlarge the existing ports behind the shim stack that the shims mate against, i merely moved the existing shims around in an all or nothing attempt to get the forks to be more compliant before laying down some cash on gold valves.
as described in the mod you can do the work by just removing the forks and working on them upside down, the effect may be the same just drilling out the holes, i had the same issue with the wp 43s on my gasgas but after looking at the base valve design decided the problem lay elsewhere and have had to do the shim stack and sticky seals.
hope everything turns out well but if you want a plusher ride this is a definite step in the right direction.
 
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