• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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All 2st Flywheel weight VS quick rev - the compromise...

letitsnow

Husqvarna
AA Class
I ride/race a 2000 WR250 and am constantly riding with others on MX 250's that have been converted to woods bikes.

The converted MXers sure do seem to rev up and down quicker when going through the really tight stuff (even with their FWW's installed). To maintain the same speed I am forced to keep the throttle pinned while using the clutch and rear brake to speed up and slow down with them.

I can't help but wonder what the CR ignition with a FWW would be like... ???
 
letitsnow;122481 said:
I can't help but wonder what the CR ignition with a FWW would be like... ???

Pretty well the same as what you're riding...:D That's what a WR is a CR with a FWW. :cheers:

Well and a wee be more.:busted:
 
HuskyDude;122483 said:
Pretty well the same as what you're riding...:D That's what a WR is a CR with a FWW. :cheers:

Well and a wee be more.:busted:

You don't think that the digital ignition helps?
 
My CR125 has a very tiny flywheel and just installed a 10oz flywheel weight. My motivation was to have just enough weight to minimize stalling on tight singletrack, but maintain the overall feel of the CR motor.

My previous bikes were a GasGas EC250 (with the larger flywheel Kokusan 2K-3) and a GasGas XC250 (with the smaller flywheel 2K-2). Even with a 10oz or 14oz weight added to the smaller 2K-2, it was still not even close to the 2K-3 flywheel... that thing has a lot of inertia.

Overall, if I had to choose again then I would go the smaller 2K-2 flywheel and add weight to tailor the power characteristics. :cheers:
 
MattR;122488 said:
Overall, if I had to choose again then I would go the smaller 2K-2 flywheel and add weight to tailor the power characteristics. :cheers:

That is the same way that I am thinking. I just can't decide whether to switch to a CR ignition + weight, or buy a YZ250 - make it into a woods race bike and keep the WR for trail riding. Decisions, decisions...
 
The WR suffers from much of the same thing as the MattR explained about the GasGas. The WR really has too much weight for a racer. You can pull a taller gear, easier with the lighter flywheel and take more advantage of the great torque the motor makes.

It will start to "spool up" sooner with the CR ignition and not have that hard transition as the power valves open, like with the WR ignition.

Basically, more like the YZ with a weight, only better, IMO.

And the digital ignition is better, too.
 
I've just weighed my flywheel on the bathroom scale and it is approx 28oz. The doesn't seem like an incredibly heavy flywheel. :excuseme:
 
No, but most of that weight is much further from the center than an internal MX type rotor. Inertia is what you're dealing with. So, a MX rotor can weight the same as a WR rotor, but have about 5 times the inertia because the weight is carried so far from the center.

Your bike tends to not spin up or slow down as fast as an MX bike, even with a FWW. So, in the tight stuff you have to work a little harder to keep pace with the MX conversions, because they can speed up and slow down easier than you. You're working the clutch to get going and possible having to shift gears, then riding the brakes and down shifting to haul it down to hit the same line without over shooting the turn.

In the truely nasty enduro stuff where it's hard to get traction or maintain control, your enduro FW is going to pay you back. Just better hope there's more of that than the other.
 
The ignition should be different from a CR and a WR, including the FWW ... Most back in that time frame(2000), took a CR and added the WR ignition stuff to calm it down for the woods ... You guys must be moving if you are pinning that bike in the woods ... A better pipe might help t some degree ...

I had the 02 CR250 and tried to add a FWW to it but was sent the wrong flywheel nut numerous times so I never actually got the weight bolted on :(

BMP in Salem OR will know plenty about this if you wanna pursue parts ... He sold me my 02 and was very knowledgeable on this subject ...
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I will buy a CR ignition if I find one cheap, otherwise I will just get better at clutch/brake control.
 
MOTORHEAD;122592 said:
The WR suffers from much of the same thing as the MattR explained about the GasGas. The WR really has too much weight for a racer. You can pull a taller gear, easier with the lighter flywheel and take more advantage of the great torque the motor makes.

It will start to "spool up" sooner with the CR ignition and not have that hard transition as the power valves open, like with the WR ignition.

Basically, more like the YZ with a weight, only better, IMO.

And the digital ignition is better, too.

This could make sense to the 125 as well
Can you use the digtal CDi with the WR stator?

Would the only differnce be flywheel weight ? Why didnt they run the digital on WRS if it s better ?

Ive got my hands in a 2008 CR igniiton so looking to convert . I dont mind changing the flywheel to a CR one .
Any thoughts or help .
 
Rock Dancer,

You need the complete cr ignition from stator/flywheel to cdi to the coil. The wiring harness is different as well. Husky is already going to the digital ignition on the 250/300 wr's and I expect the same thing on the 125/150 in '12.
 
Can the WR harness be made to work with the CR Igniton etc
Didnt you convert to the CR ignition? (with the FBF controller)
 
Another reason why the wr suffers is that is has a powerful generator (lighting coil). It puts a drag on the engine and will make it more lazy acting like a very heavy flywheel. That is a big reason why most mx bikes perform better. I have a 09 wr300 and it makes good power but does not spin up fast enough for what I am used to having only mx bikes up until now. Going to the cr ignition will probably fix it but I don't want to lose my lights. I've done many things (carb,jetting,minor porting,power now) and all seem to help. I'm goin to go to a 50 tooth rear sprocket from 48 that should help a little also.
 
That CR ignition will not power any sort of light or are you referring to a halogen \ HID or something similar?
 
I had my 2008 CR 125 stock CR rewound to get 35 watts .A Cr stator has 6 plates on it but Husky only uses 3 on the top to run the motor the 3 on the bottom are just sitting there so i had Ricky Stator.com rewind mine cost about 100 dollars and i now get 35 watts ..BUT at low RPMs the HID light will dim SO i installed a batt in the air box and at low rpms the light looks for power from the batt then when the motor speeds up the 35 watts takes over A stock batt box from Husky cost only 6 dollars and fit right in the air box like on a 4 stroke bike I have a quick disconect plug so when i do not need lights i remove the batt
 
This may sound silly basic question but I am still not clear on why the CR doesnt seem to have the bigger flywheel stator casing and the WR does. How does the cr get the power.?
 
Would drilling the face work also ? would you shave off the sides or face?
I think id rather chaneg the whole box and dice.
I think I have found a 2008 cr magneto and CDI setup
 
MOTORHEAD;122660 said:
No, but most of that weight is much further from the center than an internal MX type rotor. Inertia is what you're dealing with. So, a MX rotor can weight the same as a WR rotor, but have about 5 times the inertia because the weight is carried so far from the center.

Your bike tends to not spin up or slow down as fast as an MX bike, even with a FWW. So, in the tight stuff you have to work a little harder to keep pace with the MX conversions, because they can speed up and slow down easier than you. You're working the clutch to get going and possible having to shift gears, then riding the brakes and down shifting to haul it down to hit the same line without over shooting the turn.

In the truely nasty enduro stuff where it's hard to get traction or maintain control, your enduro FW is going to pay you back. Just better hope there's more of that than the other.


Your description of the WR is spot on. I absolutly love my WR but it's obvious how much better my 250 is when the trails get gnarly. I can keep up with a couple of my faster riding buddies when the trails turn nasty, but as soon as we're riding faster twisty stuff I get left behind. There's no other bike I'd rather own right now other than maybe a new 2011 WR300. Brad.
 
rockdancer;136707 said:
Would drilling the face work also ? would you shave off the sides or face?
I think id rather chaneg the whole box and dice.
I think I have found a 2008 cr magneto and CDI setup

Changing the entire ignition would be the way to go ..Not sure on all the drilling but the timing advance is also different with the CR ignition ... Trimming the FWW would help to some degree but the timing I think is also in question ... You might can do some FWW trimming and advance the spark also if you cannot get the entire ignition ... I have read here a few times where guys have advanced the spark but this can be tricky ...
 
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