• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Flywheel nut torque spec?

Cosmokenney

Cosmokenney

Husqvarna
Pro Class
2009 WR250, I can't find any indication in the service manual (or in searches of this site) on what the flywheel nut should be torqued to. My woodruff key sheared off and I want to avoid breaking my ankle a second time when the key shears and timing drifts and causes kick back.

I saw a 125 reference that said 50 something ft/lbs., I assume the 250 should be pretty close?
 
Lap the fly wheel too the shaft with fine grinding paste.
Clean all that off line the key ways up and crank that baby down.
My manual for 360 says rotor nut M12x1,25 Nm49-53.9 lb/ft 36.2-39.8
 
Skrew it this bike is a lost cause. After my cylinder fiasco, I brought the bike to a recommended mechanic. He thought the bottom end was bad so we did that. $$$s later and the we are still having the same problem with the cylinder. I just sold my TE 511, to finance a car, and now I'm going to have to part out the WR 250 so I can start to save up for a new (non-husky) bike. Beta. Or GasGas. Can't decide.
 
Omg what!?? Somebody get over there an help the bloke out.
What is the issue with the cylinder buddy?
And the rest of the bike?
 
My 09 wr250 has been as reliable as an anvil. Maybe someone with no mechanical knowledge worked it over before you bought it? What is the issue with the cylinder?
 
I have another thread on here about my paper weight of a cylinder. The rest of the bike is great. I love the bike. I had a lectron on it when it was a 250, and it ran like a tank for the 2 or 3 years I've owned it. But when it was time for a top end, I sent the cylinder and head to millennium tech for their big bore kit. Which entailed them boring, plating and porting for bottom end and pump gas. They sent it back with a new Gas Gas EC300 piston matched to the bore, wrist pin and bearing, gasket kit and a hole in the exhaust port that leaked coolant into the combustion chamber. I never even fired it up, and sent it back to them for a repair of the hole. They sent it back to me, and now that its "runnable" it's either detonating really badly, or the piston is contacting something like the head or the skirt is hitting the cases on the bottom. I've had the cylinder off a few times to diagnose and there is nothing obvious apart from some unexpected scratching on the cylinder that shouldn't be there given the total of about 40 - 60 minutes of total run time on the new top end. The scratches are not fingernail detectable.
 
Cosmokenney said:
I have another thread on here about my paper weight of a cylinder. The rest of the bike is great. I love the bike. I had a lectron on it when it was a 250, and it ran like a tank for the 2 or 3 years I've owned it. But when it was time for a top end, I sent the cylinder and head to millennium tech for their big bore kit. Which entailed them boring, plating and porting for bottom end and pump gas. They sent it back with a new Gas Gas EC300 piston matched to the bore, wrist pin and bearing, gasket kit and a hole in the exhaust port that leaked coolant into the combustion chamber. I never even fired it up, and sent it back to them for a repair of the hole. They sent it back to me, and now that its "runnable" it's either detonating really badly, or the piston is contacting something like the head or the skirt is hitting the cases on the bottom. I've had the cylinder off a few times to diagnose and there is nothing obvious apart from some unexpected scratching on the cylinder that shouldn't be there given the total of about 40 - 60 minutes of total run time on the new top end. The scratches are not fingernail detectable.
Click to expand...
I remember reading that thread. I'm not impressed with millennium at all. I called them about doing the squish on a 2001 Honda CR250 that had a new top end with 165 psi compression and they gave me a BS theory about how my cylinder must be out of round and tried to sell me a big bore kit. I checked the combustion leak down and it was under 15% so I sent the cylinder head to http://www.maxrpms.com/ and they set the squish and now the bike runs perfect with 225 psi. I've heard that millennium sold in two different parts and has different owner/managers which if that's the case it makes sense. Rarely does someone who buys or inherits a business run it as successfully as the guy who started it and built it up from the ground.
 
Man that sucks, I got a cylinder with a liner done by custom Kraft.
So far no issues so perhaps try them on future
 
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