Float the ground questions 06

[Pinittowinit]

So I'm looking to run my fan setup on my 06. Its a spal kit I made. I installed it wired to the batt with a switch. For some reason it killed my shorai batt. It draws 4amps. I only used it at long lights and then turned it off when I started moving. Anyway I was looking to "float the ground" on my stator. I don't use headlights. If I do need lights I have a mountain bike setup with batt pack. Can anyone guide me threw the process. I also was reading that the stock regulator should be ok. Here is the harness and fan setup I made

 

[Tinken]

I'm curious how your 48 watt fan killed your Shorai battery? And what would be accomplished by floating the ground?

 

[Pinittowinit]

Good question. The bike ran fine before the fan. A week or so later the batt was kaput. It wasn't drawing static either. I got a new shorai so little scared to put the fan back on. At that time I was running the stock headlight. But I'm not now

 

[Tinken]

Lithium ion batteries have a limited number of charge/discharge cycle times, that's it. I don't see how the 48 watt cooling fan killed your battery, especially if you were running it during engine regeneration.

 

[Pinittowinit]

So just a coincidence ya think?

 

[Pinittowinit]

Ok so here is what's up... Voltage at batt cold. 14.6. Started it up voltage dropped to 14.0 from starting. And crept up to 14.7. So I rode for a bit and turned the fan on for a few minutes. Turned it off while riding and stopped a few miles down the road. Turned the bike off and checked the batt. 14.5. Rode home and pulled the seat again. 14.6 at batt. Started and waited for the voltage to settle. 14.7 again. Now here is where it gets strange. Turned the fan on at idle and watched the voltage slowly drop to 13.3 that's when I turned it off. It would have continued to drop. That took about 2 minutes. I then kept it running until the voltage showed over 14.4 and shut the bike off. Ideas??

 

[Tinken]

That sounds normal to me. The power from your stator, your car, or any other vehicle for that matter is minimal if any at idle. It takes a good 1700+ rpm in order to start charging. This is why when you jump start a vehicle, you must run your engine well above idle to charge the other vehicle's battery prior to starting. So at idle, you're running on battery power. Once you start going again, your battery will charge back up. Also, your battery is 12 volts, but in order to charge, the charge voltage must break barrier voltage and be 13.6 volts or higher. Most stators or alternators charge at 14.4 volts.

 

[Pinittowinit]

So what do I do? If it drops below 12.6 it can ruin the batt. That's only a few minutes of fan action. That's why I want to switch over to dc. What are my options here?

 

[Tinken]

Don't discharge it below 10 volts. I wouldn't run the fan unless the engine was on, but if you ever do, make sure you charge the battery back up.

 

[Pinittowinit]

Can't I convert over to dc and eliminate this issue?

 

[ghte]

I had an 06 450 I ran the ice coolant and even in snotty first gear environment in an Australian summer ie +100 and toting my 250 llbs my bike never over heated. Change your coolant every 12 months, make sure your radiator is flushed at coolant change over-I use white vinegar. Maybe a water pump impeller upgrade. On my 310 the fan very rearly kicks in.

 

[Tinken]

If you use zip-ty's coolant, you never have to change it

 

[Pinittowinit]

Oh it doesn't overheat. I run waterwetter and the RR waterpump. Just thought it would be nice to have sitting in traffic. I'm trying to be sweet to my girl. I guess I'll just go around traffic from now on

 

[Tinken]

Can't I convert over to dc and eliminate this issue?

I'm not sure what you are asking here, both your battery and your stator put out dc. You should be fine how you had it hooked up before, though for extended periods of stopping, like at signals, you might want to rev the engine up slightly to generate more voltage.

Btw, where did you get the fan?

 

[Xcuvator]

There should be AC and DC output available from the alternater. The idea is to use AC for as much as possible because to make the DC 7+% is lost in the rectifier. As I recall the wiring diagram identifies the wire color for AC/DC output.
Are you sure you are powering the fan with AC?

 

[Pinittowinit]

I'm running the fan directly from the batt.

 

[Tinken]

How about a circuit that only allows the fan to run if voltage is above a certain level?

Here's some ideas:

http://www.powerwerx.com/fuses-circuit-protection/dc-low-voltage-disconnect-lvd.html <----Like this one the most

http://www.dcpwr.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=145 <-----I like this one
http://jasonkits.bigcartel.com/product/deluxe-wind-turbine-solar-charge-controller <--- This one is like the DCPWR without the fuse and case.

http://specialtyconcepts.com/bs.html

http://www.electronics-lab.com/blog/?p=19759
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/2161369KitInstructions.pdf

http://www.gorum.ca/lvdisc.html

 

[Xcuvator]

I'm running the fan directly from the batt.

If you aren't using the lights the occaisional use of the fan should not be any kind of problem if your battery is doing its job. I suspect you old battery was not up to spec.
BTW your battery supplies DC current.

 

[Ruffus]

If you aren't using the lights the occaisional use of the fan should not be any kind of problem if your battery is doing its job. I suspect you old battery was not up to spec.
BTW your battery supplies DC current.

The lighting circuit (headlight-tail & brake light) on 06 bikes is run off of the AC. Horn, signals, starter etc. is DC

 

[Pinittowinit]

O

The lighting circuit (headlight-tail & brake light) on 06 bikes is run off of the AC. Horn, signals, starter etc. is DC

Only the headlight is AC. Tail is DC