• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Fix suggestion for rock impact to motor

M

meyerx

Husqvarna
Rock kicked up with extreme force and broke thru the stock plastic skid plate and damaged case that
the oil filter cover bolts screw into.
Noticed it during an oil change. Replaced the oil/filter and put everything back together. Rode it around
the neighborhood. It doesn't appear to leak..... But there are only a limited number of threads that
are getting purchase into the case. Since this is a frequently removed bolt, guessing it won't last long
as is.
2013 TXC 310R with 20 hours on it. Not sure i'm ready to split the motor open yet....unless that's
likely required. Any suggestions?? A few pics below.... Thx!
Resampled_2013-06-09_10-44-22_432.jpgResampled_2013-06-09_11-03-07_32.jpg
 
Honestly I would probably runn it like that until like you said, the threads strip out, if that ever happens (it may not) it's not like there is a large amount of stress on that bolt. The o-ring does the majority of the sealing work. But it could be fixed by tig
 
I would put something to cover the hole, silicon, duct tape, whatever, to keep the dirt out of the threads that will deteriorate the threads over time if you get too much in there.
 
Yes, JB weld or "Right Stuff" might be a good temp fix. RS when set up is harder than silicone, but softer than JB. It won't crack, gas and oil won't hurt it and the color might blend better. It's messy shit, use latex gloves.
 
That sucks...

Isn't this just a side cover thing, not split the case thing.

Temporary - Do the epoxy metal thing. Maybe coat the back side of the cover plate and bolt with a light coating of grease and see if you can get the epoxy to hold to the broken flange but not stick to the other surfaces. If you turned the bolt a little back and forth while it's setting up you might end up with some new threads.

Permanent - buy a new side cover.

Side note - ditch the o-ring and get the Zip-Ty gasket. Use ThreeBond silicone gasket sealer on all surfaces. The o-ring gets flat from the heat and pressure and then when it does leak there tends to be the mistake of tighten the bolts, resulting in stripped threads...don't ask.

Good luck.
 
I wonder if you could hell-coil it to restore the threads, then replace the lost material with a good two part epoxy that has aluminum powder? Those bolts are only torqued to around 50 inch-pounds, but even with that, the remaining threads don't look like they would last long.
 
You don't have to split the cases, but you do need to take that side of the case off. Those cases are not easy to weld, they are made out of a very unique magnesium-aluminum-potmetal alloy. Even with magnesium alloy rod under a full argon atmosphere, I was unable to weld it. But I was able to braze it with aluminum rod and that's what I recommend.
 
You mean our high-bred Italian racin' machines are made of pot metal? :eek: Hopefully those Austrians (Indians?) will fix that.
 
Thanks for the responses and all the suggestions!
Think for the near term i'll try the greased bolt and JB weld approach....maybe even have a shortened helicoil placed where there's no case material left.
Never worked with JB weld before but seems to be a common theme on the suggestions.

KXcam22, whoa sounds like a bad scenario on the coolant loss. I like the sound of the rubber wedges to aid in the protection. Any place in particular where i might be
able to snag exactly what you used?
 
J.B. Weld**************************************** The stuff is incredible. Try using the putty version. Cut down the break mark so its fairly smooth. Then cut a few burs into it so that the putty sticks. You can either surround the bolt, of completly fill it in, and then re-tap it. I would have no question it is hard enough. The stuff works amazing for anything!
 
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