250-500cc first ride report Kearney wr300

[windsurf]

Hi,

Just checked mine, it's done about 500 miles and it's about the same 155 - 160. The cable still doesn't look right with that steel 90o bend, std cable has a much larger radius probably helping reduce the friction. Also std cable goes BEHIND bars not infront so it can move freely when bars are turned.

 

[Rob578]

I've posted this a couple of times. I checked mine with the stock head and it was 135#. Checked it with the factory race head and it was 165#
I understand a stock YZ250 is around 180#

 

[Pinittowinit]

i know in the pics the cable looks taught, but its not. i can move the bars back and forth with no binding anywhere. I am going to order a new clutch cable anyway because of the bend. i agree the metal bend is most likely causing a bit more resistance than normal.

sorry i missed your post Rob578 about the compression. i appreciate you posting it again. lol does your bike have the domed piston too? im going to call Wyatt and get educated. ill tell ya what he says.

 

[PC.]

You got 155psi at sea level with the domed piston? I'd think that's a little low.
Also, did they put the WR ignition back on it or does it have the CR ignition? Maybe the timing is off or maybe that mod motor doesn't like the weaker WR ignition

 

[Pinittowinit]

Stock ign. But they have the cr one too. So I'm buying that but not gonna put it on until the bike is dialed in. Nice call on sea level!!

 

[PC.]

If and when you inquire about the CR ignition would you please ask is they have another for sale?
I'd love one for my 300 as well!!!

Since this was a pro caliber race bike I wonder if the porting and head work shifted the power up top. And maybe it needs the hot CR igntion to run properly. At the very least I'd check and see if teh timing is correct. Retarded timing will make for a very soft bottom end

 

[Pinittowinit]

Will do PC. Just got off the horn with Wyatt and he said 155 is good. Wyatt is one cool kat. He also said the domed head with the GG piston should be slightly higher than the flat top and husky race head. And you can't run a flat top in the cut head. And can use GG with a stock or husky race head.

 

[Pinittowinit]

second ride report

the tires made the WORLD of difference!!! super stoked and got the suspension dialed in ok. over all very happy. the 14/49 gearing is too high. gonna go a bit lower. 13 maybe or 51 52. bit too fast in 1st gear for the super tight stuff i rode this morning. never got higher than second. the carb is a bit closer but i still have some fine tuning to do there. now on to the good stuff. my dumb ass decided i was going to jump this river bed. i was crossing it at a 90 degree angle. i had to drop in and pin it to jump this rock to clear a gap and land ontop of another rock to get out. the first attempt didnt go so well and took 20 minutes to get out of the damm thing. the second attempt went even worse. haha took quite a while to push it out of the mountian to a road where we could get the truck in. eh part of riding.

halls has it in stock so im all good.

 

[R_Little]

here are the pics. is the cable routed correctly?is the arm the stock size?

i got her some new shoes today!! should have her dialed in this weekend. thanks im super excited, and i know it needs a little adjustment to suit me. afterall im not sure Glenn can keep up. haha

Dude, that is NOT the right routing. In fact I'm not sure that is the right cable.

The cable is suposed to come down the front down tubes. You'll most likely see an empty cable guide for it there.

My Wr250 has a SWEEETE Hebo hydro clutch that Fred Hoess sold a few years back.
I is an adapted Hebo Universal unit. It looks like the new Gas Gas 250f with the Yamaha engine has the same set up and you may be able to buy it from GoFasters.

 

[Pinittowinit]

Yeah I know it's not correct. I actually fixed it to the proper way however since it's not the correct cable I routed it differently. A oem cable is on order. I also lubed it with sone graphite grease. Smooth as butter but can be a tad better. Once the new cable comes in I will return the routing back to the stock location. I was looking at the hydro clutch but now I wont need it. The pull isn't that bad.

 

[raisrx251]

How in the World did you hit that rock and how far in the air was the bike when it came down. That is some serious side damage and have never seen one rip like that. From the pic it looks like it got your pipe also. Ouch, you need the P3 Pipe guard to go along with that skid plate.

 

[Pinittowinit]

I do good work!! Haha the bike wasn't but a few feet, but it came down on it's side right on top of this point of a rock. The pipe got a tiny nick but I'm not worried. I have a new. Spare one. I'm having a custom cage built next week. I can't ride for shit, but damm good at hitting stuff. Lol that skid plate is beefy. They do good work. Look right above the p3 sticker you can see where I tagged it too.

 

[Pinittowinit]

Update**************************************** Got the Ohlins ttx on and man is that a sweet shock. I made no adjustments to it. It was Glenn's shock and I guess we are the same weight. The bike is a pure pleasure to ride. I don't have the cr ign installed yet. Working on getting the hydro clutch setup. My hand locks up and I can't pull the clutch in. I'm talking in serious tight trails where the clutch isn't disengaged. I have to work it for several minutes at a time. Other than that I'm still chasing the jetting. I put the pwk on from the get go. Started with the red clip 3. 42 pilot 170main. The main was way fat so dropped it to 168 for now. I was getting a slight off idle hang but it was lazy too. I leaned the clip and really cleaned it up, however the hang got worse. I briefly tried a 45. No fix so I went back to the 42. Last night I was thinking about it and since I was getting the slight hang on the red 3 and needed to lean it to clean up the bottom. I changed out the red for the blue and left in clip 2. So I will find out today if my thinking is on track. I love this tank!!

 

[steadydirt]

A very fast clutch pull fix is to drill another cable end location more near to the lever bolt hole.
Make sure you open up the slit for the cable to have a straight pull. Eliminates arm pump.

I think he is trying to reduce the clutch lever pull. Reducing the arm length by moving the cable closer to the pivot will increase the clutch lever pressure.
I have a 2010 300 a honestly dont think the pull is excessive. Our local area is mainly tight woods type riding with lots of steep technical rocky tree root sections and it is rare that you need to clutch the bike up them. Surely if you have to ride the clutch that much it might be worthwhile dropping a tooth on the front sprocket? One of the great things about theses bikes is the incredible bottom end torque making it almost impossible to stall them even without slipping the clutch.

 

[steadydirt]

A very fast clutch pull fix is to drill another cable end location more near to the lever bolt hole.
Make sure you open up the slit for the cable to have a straight pull. Eliminates arm pump.

I think he is trying to reduce the clutch lever pull. Reducing the arm length by moving the

cable closer to the pivot will increase the clutch lever pressure.
I have a 2010 300 a honestly dont think the pull is excessive. Our local area is mainly tight woods type riding with lots of steep technical rocky tree root sections and it is rare that you need to clutch the bike up them. Surely if you have to ride the clutch that much it might be worthwhile dropping a tooth on the front sprocket? One of the great things about theses bikes is the incredible bottom end torque making it almost impossible to stall them even without slipping the clutch.

Sorry you are incorrect.
Drilling the new cable end location more near the bolt/fulcrum increases the leverage of the lever. Surprised someone does not sell them but it is an easy DIY.

 

[Rob578]

Update**************************************** Got the Ohlins ttx on and man is that a sweet shock. I made no adjustments to it. It was Glenn's shock and I guess we are the same weight. The bike is a pure pleasure to ride. I don't have the cr ign installed yet. Working on getting the hydro clutch setup. My hand locks up and I can't pull the clutch in. I'm talking in serious tight trails where the clutch isn't disengaged. I have to work it for several minutes at a time. Other than that I'm still chasing the jetting. I put the pwk on from the get go. Started with the red clip 3. 42 pilot 170main. The main was way fat so dropped it to 168 for now. I was getting a slight off idle hang but it was lazy too. I leaned the clip and really cleaned it up, however the hang got worse. I briefly tried a 45. No fix so I went back to the 42. Last night I was thinking about it and since I was getting the slight hang on the red 3 and needed to lean it to clean up the bottom. I changed out the red for the blue and left in clip 2. So I will find out today if my thinking is on track. I love this tank!!

What kind of fuel are you running? I'm using VP C12 with a 165MJ and a 42PJ. Tad rich on the bottom but good everywhere else. I'll have to search the jetting database, i don't remember the last needle combo, I've tried them all I think

 

[Pinittowinit]

I'm running 92 pump. I just got off the phone with JD and he said that carb needs a 45. He had several options
1) run the 42 blue clip 2. If still hanging (2)
(2) 45 blue clip 2 from there I can go 48 red clip 2. Many different combos to fine tune. Since it's a high comp engine I'm gonna have to be fatter than normal obviously. If I can't clean it up I'm gonna run race gas and start over on the jetting but I'm not getting any pinging at all, so I don't think I need to boost the octane due to pre detonation

 

[windsurf]

Sorry you are incorrect.
Drilling the new cable end location more near the bolt/fulcrum increases the leverage of the lever. Surprised someone does not sell them but it is an easy DIY.

No Sorry you are'nt right with that one. The closer the cable is to the fulcrum point the heavier the the clutch lever is. To reduce pull on the lever the arm length has to be longer for greater leverage. A simple analogy is using a longer spanner gives more leverage than a short one. The down side of a longer arm is that adjustment has to be exact for the clutch to both engage properly and disengage when the lever is pulled as the travel of the pushrod is reduced.

 

[Boomer]

No Sorry you are'nt right with that one. The closer the cable is to the fulcrum point the heavier the the clutch lever is. To reduce pull on the lever the arm length has to be longer for greater leverage. A simple analogy is using a longer spanner gives more leverage than a short one. The down side of a longer arm is that adjustment has to be exact for the clutch to both engage properly and disengage when the lever is pulled as the travel of the pushrod is reduced.

No offence winsurf but SteadyDirt is right. By moving the cable further away from the fulcrum you are actually increasing the "Work" (Load * Distance) and effectively reducing the leverage. The problem with the spanner analogy you used is that the fulcrum is also the load point (or clost to it) , but that is not the case for a clutch lever. The further you move the load point away from the fulcrum the more effort is required. By moving the cable away from the fulcrum you are increasing the cable pull distance, and reducing the leverage making it harder. A good analogy for this is a nut cracker. It gets more diffcult if you position the nut further away from the hinge.

 

[Pinittowinit]

I started new thread, but I think I might be sucking air from the crank seal on the ign side. I assume the hole on the bottom of the cover is for drainage. Would it be ok to seal the hole to see if my idle hang issue gies away. If it does l change the seal