125-200cc First ride 09 WR 125 and the bog

[Used Piston]

I fanally just got the chance to ride my new 09 WR 125 that I purchased in January, sad but true. I read a lot about this bike and made the final decision based on what I read here at Cafe Husky.

Over the last couple months I took the time to dissasemble most of the bike to do the suggested mods, grease all the bearings (glad I did as Husky doesn't spend money on grease) locktite and antiseize where required.

I ride in an area that starts at sea level and mostly tight gnarly single track with lots of tight elevation changes. This bike is magic everywhere except the tight corners with the steep uphill after it. I could not pull the hills even in first because of the bog. most of the trails are first - third gear.

I weight 215 with gear. This is my first 125 since a 74 Elsinore, 5th Husky since 92, and third 2 stroke. The others where WR250s. I guess I am an intermediate rider 50 years.

My jetting is 4.0 slide, 6DEY 15-74 needle bottom clip, 32.5 pilot, 80 starter, 470 main and I do have all the stock carb jets and slide/needle. 32 to 1 mixture. 12/50 gearing. I have the power valve spring kit and currently am running the orange spring and the silver small spring which gives initial openning at 5000 and full open at 6800.

We have one long steady fast 1/4 mile uphill that if I keep the bike singing, I can pull 4th and maybe 5th. I noticed when I was in between the 5000 IO and 6800 FO (mid throttle) in third gear on the hill I could not pull any more rpm and the engine felt like it was lean. I raised the needle to the bottom clip but it still feels lean.

I admit that I am not used to fanning the clutch but something feels off as I can't just chug up the steep gnarly hills as some of you describe being able to do. My 250s where tractors and screamed up top.

I know the answer is here.

Thanks, JB

 

[Troy F Collins]

I would try smaller main......and needle in the middle..I know you say it seems lean..but smaller main was best result I got

I got best results with 450 main.....but I am at 3800ft.....

 

[water racer]

There seems to be some inconsistencies in these bikes somewhere, as some people swear by the 32.5 pilot, and mine won't pull with anything smaller than a 45 pilot. I know there are differences in air, temp. and elevation, but that is a big difference. I don't have the answer.
Mine now will chug up anything.
GP

 

[WoodsChick]

My jetting is 4.0 slide, 6DEY 15-74 needle bottom clip, 32.5 pilot, 80 starter, 470 main and I do have all the stock carb jets and slide/needle. 32 to 1 mixture. 12/50 gearing.

Hi, JB-

Is the 4.0 slide the one that came on your bike? Mine had a 5.0 slide in it when I got it, along with the same needle you have. It is my understanding that the 5.0 slide was part of the upgrade package along with the needle and starter jet. I got a box of jets and stuff that were in my bike from the factory and the 4.0 slide was in it. Perhaps the cutaway on the 4.0 slide is too small to pull a 32.5 pilot? I am running a 35 pilot, 430 main, clip at 5, and 40:1 mixture. I'm not happy with this set-up, the needle needs more taper, but with the white/silver springs I am able to get good bottom and mid power with no bog...only a hint of a stumble for a split second off the mid. Overall it is still running too rich, but will chug up stuff no problem...



WoodsChick

 

[Used Piston]

Hi WoodsChick,

Mine had the 5.0 also. but the kit contained the 4.0 and all the other jets except for the 32.5 pilot. It also contained different power valves that I changed out. Did you get those?

JB

 

[NWRider]

Don't some of them need the power valve adjusted to remove the bog? I thought I saw a thread with picures and directions.

 

[rockdancer]

You may find small improvements but I think we have to remember it is only a 125 you are pretty big and you have to adapt a different riding style which takes a while to master

 

[pvduke]

I ride in an area that starts at sea level and mostly tight gnarly single track with lots of tight elevation changes. most of the trails are first - third gear.
I weight 215 with gear.

My jetting is 4.0 slide, 6DEY 15-74 needle bottom clip, 32.5 pilot, 80 starter, 470 main and I do have all the stock carb jets and slide/needle. 32 to 1 mixture. 12/50 gearing. I have the power valve spring kit and currently am running the orange spring and the silver small spring which gives initial openning at 5000 and full open at 6800.

We have one long steady fast 1/4 mile uphill that if I keep the bike singing, I can pull 4th and maybe 5th. I noticed when I was in between the 5000 IO and 6800 FO (mid throttle) in third gear on the hill I could not pull any more rpm and the engine felt like it was lean. I raised the needle to the bottom clip but it still feels lean.



Thanks, JB

your jetting/set up is all screwed up. too much going on at once.
also- did you get copies of the updates the dealer did as far as PV and hoses and engine stay? make sure the PV's are the updated ones before going any further.
put the springs/pv settings back to stock. (you can go back to the wally springs after your baseline is established)
put the clip back in the middle or #4. never at the bottom, that's en emergency position. if you are running #5 position you should go up one size main, at least.
also- visually verify and measure the needles- use the thinner of the two, it's richer.
use a 480 main to start.
back your ratio down to 40:1 max.
start over and read your plug.

also- if it wont pull a hill stop! and go back to the truck. no use bruning up a motor if it wont work. my bike makes enough power to loop out on hills.

125's use way bigger jets than 500's or 250's. little motors work harder to stay at the front. they need that fuel to make that power.

 

[Motosportz]

your jetting/set up is all screwed up. too much going on at once.
also- did you get copies of the updates the dealer did as far as PV and hoses and engine stay? make sure the PV's are the updated ones before going any further.
put the springs/pv settings back to stock. (you can go back to the wally springs after your baseline is established)
put the clip back in the middle or #4. never at the bottom, that's en emergency position. if you are running #5 position you should go up one size main, at least.
also- visually verify and measure the needles- use the thinner of the two, it's richer.
use a 480 main to start.
back your ratio down to 40:1 max.
start over and read your plug.

also- if it wont pull a hill stop! and go back to the truck. no use bruning up a motor if it wont work. my bike makes enough power to loop out on hills.

125's use way bigger jets than 500's or 250's. little motors work harder to stay at the front. they need that fuel to make that power.

Agree. Go back to the stock PV spring and get your jetting correct and then play with the springs. Personally i feel the PWK make a huge difference, wished i would have just got one from day one. I had my Mikuni working real good but the PWK works better and works good all the time. The Mikuni seemed like it would work great one day and big bog the next. Very temperamental. My bike runs very strong now.

- You do have the updated power valves in right?

the other thing several of us have noticed is adjusting the linkage arm for the PV seems to cure a lot of the mid bog. In the picture below slide the bolt in the slot (right bolt) up in the slot nearly all the way and see what that gains you.

 

[Beefeaters up]

Excellent post Mr. Duke. And Motosportz is VERY correct concerning the Mikuni. Impossible to find consistency.

 

[pvduke]

thank beefers...just noticed it was my 666th post!

:devil:

 

[WoodsChick]

Hi WoodsChick,

Mine had the 5.0 also. but the kit contained the 4.0 and all the other jets except for the 32.5 pilot. It also contained different power valves that I changed out. Did you get those?

JB

Yes, my dealer installed all the upgraded parts before I picked up the bike. He told me the 4.0 was the one he took out and replaced with the 5.0 that came with the kit

My carb had the 5.0 slide, 40 pilot, 470 main, and the kit needle w/clip in middle position. This set-up had a humongous bog in the middle.



WoodsChick

 

[jsleeper]

Yes, my dealer installed all the upgraded parts before I picked up the bike. He told me the 4.0 was the one he took out and replaced with the 5.0 that came with the kit

My carb had the 5.0 slide, 40 pilot, 470 main, and the kit needle w/clip in middle position. This set-up had a humongous bog in the middle.



WoodsChick

Same here: my bike had a 45p, 3rd clip and 460 main and had a huge bog. It also would not start with the 45p after being warmed up. I dropped to a 35p and it idled but was still very rich on the bottom. I raised the needle to the 4th clip and dropped the pilot to the 32.5 and things got better. I had and still have a ton of spooge coming out of the pipe (even with several hours of aggressive riding). So, dropped to 450 main.

The best results I have had on the bike are 32.5 pilot, 5th clip, and 450/460 main. And the linkage adjusted.

However, with the weather changing the bog is returning...I am going to try one more time with the Mikuni, then I am buying the PWK.

I really think the Mikuni needs another needle. The bike feels really lean in the middle, and if the needle is lowered the bike will cut-out and bog when the throttle is wicked from about 1/4-3/4.

JS

 

[WoodsChick]

Same here: my bike had a 45p, 3rd clip and 460 main and had a huge bog. It also would not start with the 45p after being warmed up. I dropped to a 35p and it idled but was still very rich on the bottom. I raised the needle to the 4th clip and dropped the pilot to the 32.5 and things got better. I had and still have a ton of spooge coming out of the pipe (even with several hours of aggressive riding). So, dropped to 450 main.

The best results I have had on the bike are 32.5 pilot, 5th clip, and 450/460 main. And the linkage adjusted.

However, with the weather changing the bog is returning...I am going to try one more time with the Mikuni, then I am buying the PWK.

I really think the Mikuni needs another needle. The bike feels really lean in the middle, and if the needle is lowered the bike will cut-out and bog when the throttle is wicked from about 1/4-3/4.
JS

Exactly! That's why you gotta run it rich! I called Sudco to ask about a different needle...one with more taper...and he said we're outta luck. I might call Yamaha and ask if they offer different needles for their YZ125's which run the TMX 38. Yeah, I know...I can buy a whole `nother PWK...but I already have one. I might just call JD and see if I can't get a jet/needle kit for it.



WoodsChick

 

[Troy F Collins]

Exactly! That's why you gotta run it rich! I called Sudco to ask about a different needle...one with more taper...and he said we're outta luck. I might call Yamaha and ask if they offer different needles for their YZ125's which run the TMX 38. Yeah, I know...I can buy a whole `nother PWK...but I already have one. I might just call JD and see if I can't get a jet/needle kit for it.



WoodsChick

Yes Yamaha has many different needles for the TMX......think this was covered before in these threads....


http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2842&highlight=wr125+jetting

 

[zanol]

I think the carb is the only bad part of that great bike. Mine have personality too

 

[Kevin_TE250]

I think the carb is the only bad part of that great bike. Mine have personality too

agreed... Walt told me about the PWK and I didn't listen right away... I can't keep mine lean enough ... I keep dropping the pilot over and over.. will be down to a 15 in no time...

Saving my pennies for a PWK... One thing Walt says is true ... "THE TMX ISN'T WORTH THE SCRAP YOU'D GET FOR ALUMINUM RECYCLING"

 

[wallybean]

If you try to find optional needles for the yamaha yz 125 tmx, you will find that there are only one or two currently available. Best option is find an appropriate circular file for the tmx and install the pwk airstriker. I have been all over the map trying to get the tmx to consistantly carburate cleanly. I have tried the larger pilot/needle in the 3rd or 4th groove and a larger main, with the result of too rich on the bottom and at the top and a bog in the middle. I too had the best luck with the 32.5 pilot, needle in the 4th or 5th slot and a 450 main. It actually pulled the most consistantly with a 440 main, 4th slot, #4 slide and a 30 pilot but it makes me very nervous being that lean.

Enter the PWK JD kit from Kelly last weekend. Other than dropping the clip one slot on the blue needle it ripped right out of the box no issues anywhere. Actually scared the crap out of me it was hitting so hard at fairly low rev's(5000)(too soft inner spring). By far the best the 144 has ever run and this is what I expected when I installed the bigger bore.

Take home for me is that everytime I try to work with the TMX carbs, I end up with a money drain and very inconsistant results. Cut your losses early and just pull the trigger on the PWK. Wish Husky would join the rest of the world and just use the Keihin out of the crate.

Story of a frustrated TMX Hater,
Walt

 

[jsleeper]

If you try to find optional needles for the yamaha yz 125 tmx, you will find that there are only one or two currently available. Best option is find an appropriate circular file for the tmx and install the pwk airstriker. I have been all over the map trying to get the tmx to consistantly carburate cleanly. I have tried the larger pilot/needle in the 3rd or 4th groove and a larger main, with the result of too rich on the bottom and at the top and a bog in the middle. I too had the best luck with the 32.5 pilot, needle in the 4th or 5th slot and a 450 main. It actually pulled the most consistantly with a 440 main, 4th slot, #4 slide and a 30 pilot but it makes me very nervous being that lean.

Enter the PWK JD kit from Kelly last weekend. Other than dropping the clip one slot on the blue needle it ripped right out of the box no issues anywhere. Actually scared the crap out of me it was hitting so hard at fairly low rev's(5000)(too soft inner spring). By far the best the 144 has ever run and this is what I expected when I installed the bigger bore.

Take home for me is that everytime I try to work with the TMX carbs, I end up with a money drain and very inconsistant results. Cut your losses early and just pull the trigger on the PWK. Wish Husky would join the rest of the world and just use the Keihin out of the crate.

Story of a frustrated TMX Hater,
Walt

I have a 5-step plan:

1) one more ride to try and dial in the TMX

if that does not work (which it will not), then

2) order the PWK

if that is not enough, then

3) 144 kit

and

4) take Walt up on his offer to grind the PV

finally,

5) let the bike sit all summer during Red sticker season (just as it is running good), and buy the new WR250/300 that will be out December.....I hope!!! Start over again with the new bike.


JS

 

[Used Piston]

Agree. Go back to the stock PV spring and get your jetting correct and then play with the springs. Personally i feel the PWK make a huge difference, wished i would have just got one from day one. I had my Mikuni working real good but the PWK works better and works good all the time. The Mikuni seemed like it would work great one day and big bog the next. Very temperamental. My bike runs very strong now.

- You do have the updated power valves in right?

the other thing several of us have noticed is adjusting the linkage arm for the PV seems to cure a lot of the mid bog. In the picture below slide the bolt in the slot (right bolt) up in the slot nearly all the way and see what that gains you.

I have time tomorrow to play with the bike and will put the spring back to stock. I was wondering about the position of the linkage arm adjustment when I put in the kit power valves.

The jetting felt spot on when I hit the trail. I had tried the clip in the middle, too lean and in the 5th position too rich but it felt like it wanted to be there when I was climbing the big long hill and I think the RPM spread with the PV spring combo had a lot to do with it.

I am not against trying another carb but I may also work on my needle taper before I give up as I have a friend that makes his own needles. He may just tell me to go with the PWK.

I should clarify that the bike worked great in most of my riding where I was able to keep it on the boil. It was the very tight 1st gear corner into a steep up hill that gave me trouble. I needed it to chug, if I had fanned the clutch, I think I would have spun or launched the bike out from under me.

JB