• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Finally Joined The Fold - New Te630. Need Setup Advise

Hey Jtemple,

Did you clean the clutch side screens every oil change?

I did both sets of the screens (left and right side) and found nothing @ 600 miles. I have a 1.5k now and just did the left side screen and filter and again nothing. I was planing on doing the clutch side screen @ 3k when i do the valves again.
 
Hey Jtemple,

Did you clean the clutch side screens every oil change?

I did both sets of the screens (left and right side) and found nothing @ 600 miles. I have a 1.5k now and just did the left side screen and filter and again nothing. I was planing on doing the clutch side screen @ 3k when i do the valves again.
I have pulled the clutch cover 4-5 times, mostly chasing down a leak, and checked that screen every time. It has been spotless each time.

I clean the left side screen at every oil change and there's always a little something in there.
 
I have pulled the clutch cover 4-5 times, mostly chasing down a leak, and checked that screen every time. It has been spotless each time.

Based on you saying this before and others collaborating I have never pulled my clutch cover screen yet. Not sure if the dealer did it at 500 mile oil change but I doubt it. Oil change I did at 2,500 miles found the left side screens with a good bit of stuff so thinking maybe they didn't clean those either at 500 miles. Second oil change I did at 5,000 miles and left side screens had almost nothing on them. I plan to check my clutch cover screen at next oil change for peace of mind.

_
 
Based on you saying this before and others collaborating I have never pulled my clutch cover screen yet. Not sure if the dealer did it at 500 mile oil change but I doubt it. Oil change I did at 2,500 miles found the left side screens with a good bit of stuff so thinking maybe they didn't clean those either at 500 miles. Second oil change I did at 5,000 miles and left side screens had almost nothing on them. I plan to check my clutch cover screen at next oil change for peace of mind.

_
I'd just check the right side once or twice for peace of mind. I have been in there several times. With 9000 miles on the odometer, I have yet to find a thing in there. At this point, if I started seeing chunks in there, I'd start wondering if something was wrong.
 
I'm knew to this site and new to Husky.
I'm a former KTM 620 Rally then KTM 640 Enduro guy.
2 blown LC4's and I'm about to buy a 630...should I?

It has less than 100 miles on it and it already had a recent oil change to silicon.
The owner attempted to do the manual resistor thing and failed so he bought the dongle and pluged it in.
Strangely, he thinks it didn't make a difference. Could he have fried something on his first attempt?

He also put one of those Kabookie-ass lowering links on it.
Unfortunately, he maxed it out and had to cut into the swingarm to make it fit.
He did have the hole capped off and welded by a "profession".

Done so far:
Emissions have been removed.
Front sprocket change
FMF titanium
Kabookie crap installed
Swingarm cut
Extended warranty transferable until 2015

SO...SHOULD I BUY IT (PLANNING ON IT)?
 

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If the bike fits your riding style and needs then yes, it's still the best dualsport ever made.
How much?

REALLY old thread here. :busted:
 
Sounds like a hell of a find, GeekVenture. Like CJ I'm curious- how much?

Don't know what to tell you about the swingarm butchery. I gotta admit that would mildly concern me, but then again I'm not an engineer nor a metallurgist. Given where it was trimmed and that it looks well done I'd imagine it's strong/safe but, even in the worst case scenario (and if the price of the bike is right), then you could always replace the swingarm. Keep reading this forum...you'll quickly learn what he faults/weak areas of the 630 are and only you can decide if it's the bike for you (you'll find the list reasonable and issues addressable...you'll also see that the 630 is a hugely loved/respected DS.)
 
Wow...this is an old thread :eek:

Apparently it still works :applause:

So...I'm going to get the 630 tomorrow. First stop is the Husky dealer near the owner. The owner mentioned that he didn't like a sound the motor was making so we are going to get it checked out. He seems to think it's a loose timing chain, but the local deal told him the there is an auto adjuster for that.

Nevertheless, I'm excited and nervous all at the same time. This bike will have to do everything from grocery shopping to commuting 50 miles back and forth to work 5 days a week. So it looks like I'm going to be the guinea pig guy who finds out if this motor can put some miles in like the Rotax motor in the G650X (friends high mile bike).

I will also be camping off the bike up in Mendocino National Forest. We like going up there, setting up camp at Lake Pillsbury, then bombing down to Penny Pines for some amazing trail riding.

JPEG%25252520Image%25252520%252525283489%25252529.jpg
 
I guess you can't edit your post once submitted...?
I wanted to say thanks for the info on the swingarm sale!
As for the price...6K

So...I was wondering what you all thought about the bike having the FMF titanium exhaust installed with the PU kit...but the mapping on the computer is still stock. Is that going to harm the engine? My thinking is that since the PU kit removes the O2 sensor, the bike can't adjust it's air/gas mixture therefore the potential for harming the engine from it being too rich or too lean is possible. Should I be worried about this?

Sorry about the big picture...I should have attached it instead.
 
I really would not worry about it with less than 100 miles on the bike especially if the previous owner was not banging it off the rev limiter every ride.
 
I wanted to say thanks for the info on the swingarm sale!
As for the price...6K

So...I was wondering what you all thought about the bike having the FMF titanium exhaust installed with the PU kit...but the mapping on the computer is still stock. Is that going to harm the engine? My thinking is that since the PU kit removes the O2 sensor, the bike can't adjust it's air/gas mixture therefore the potential for harming the engine from it being too rich or too lean is possible. Should I be worried about this?


Removing the 02 and plugging the harness puts the ecu into full race/rich mode. It's still not enough though so you need a iBeat cable and the program to set it up. Thread elsewhere here.

And yes, in hard charging it can overheat the motor, won't wear it out in a short time though.

If it really only has a hundred miles it's probly worth it then. I would offer at least $500 less and make them buy a new swingarm if it has really been cut.
 
Looks like you found the cable already. The program iBeat is available for download from JTemple or I think it comes with the cable. Check on Dynobobs tuning thread, he has the settings pretty much dialed based on your setup. The software on laptop connects to the bike's ECU and adjusts the mixture at three throttle positions.

I'm pretty sure it's been established that the iBeat is the simplest, least cost, and most effective method of setting up the EFI on these. IIRC the add-on modules offer more settings across the throttle range but not really necessary to make them run right, are more complicated, more prone to failure, and cost a lot more.

I put 5K miles on mine before setting up the ecu with iBeat and now wish I had done it much sooner. It just runs so much better, way more top end, starts easier, runs cooler. Of course that all makes the motor last longer as well.
 
BARGAIN!!

Johngil's is gonna come up soon as well, but not that cheap. TE630 with about the same miles.
 
Doesn't the Bazzaz learn based on what you present it as what you will be doing? Then it recommends a map setting optimal for that presented condition?

If so...this seems most like what it's original O2 sensing, continually adjusting design intended!? Granted your still have to manually upload the newly recommended program. :doh:
 
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