• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

False neutrals - difficult shifting

Freaky

Freaky

Husqvarna
AA Class
I seem to be finding an awful lot of false neutrals lately, along with difficult up shifting when clutchless shifting. Usually I roll off the throttle slightly and knock it up a gear but at the moment it may take two or three attempts before it goes in, then occasionally it will jump back out into a false neutral, any one had this on their X-lite?
 
Try lowering your oil weight. The Mobil 1 0w40 synthetic is what my next oil change will be. At the moment, I just changed mine again with shell rotella 5w40 synthetic. The shifting is so much better. I would recommend looking at Tinkens threads about oil requirements. Don't buy anymore high priced motorcycle oil. Walmart and the gallon jugs is the way to go with as many oil changes that are needed.
 
Isn't there a thread about a screw that comes loose inside the motor? Could be a different model but I thought I read that somewhere here.
 
Freaky said:
I seem to be finding an awful lot of false neutrals lately, along with difficult up shifting when clutchless shifting. Usually I roll off the throttle slightly and knock it up a gear but at the moment it may take two or three attempts before it goes in, then occasionally it will jump back out into a false neutral, any one had this on their X-lite?
Click to expand...
Not to sound sarcastic but these things are made with a clutch for a reason. Lots of things can get damaged form frequent clutchless shifts. Wouldn't even be able to tell you where to start looking, maybe for gear teeth in the oil. Maybe you will have to start using the clutch! I am no pro rider but I am the fastest of our bunch and I only ever do the odd clutchless shift by accident. I.e. for the potential damage you can do with clutchless shifts and the time you save (fractions of a second) isn't worth it.
 
I've managed to find false neutral a few times. For example: changing up from 3-4th, I have found myself between the gears for a moment of free rev before it engages. I put it down to my ocassional lazy gear change technique.
 
Have found the false neutrals and has popped out gear, since changed oil to 5w-40 have not had this happened yet. But have not done 100 km yet so still early days.
 
Ok, thanks for the input guys, really appreciate the feedback. I'll try 0/40 oil before I ride again, it is a bit cold here and thinking back I never had this issue before winter when it was much warmer.
Mike, I know what you're saying about new boots, less flex in the ankle etc. Before I rode last time I lowered the lever one spline just in case I wasn't getting full movement but still the same.
Duggoey, with regard to clutchless gear changes I can appreciate what you're saying, using the clutch would be kinder on the bike but I've ridden like this for many years and many bikes, only really use the clutch to start off then its shifted through the box without, they are designed to be used this way. If I were trail riding then I would use it more but in a race it's far quicker and easier to shift without the clutch.
 
Freaky said:
Ok, thanks for the input guys, really appreciate the feedback. I'll try 0/40 oil before I ride again, it is a bit cold here and thinking back I never had this issue before winter when it was much warmer.
Mike, I know what you're saying about new boots, less flex in the ankle etc. Before I rode last time I lowered the lever one spline just in case I wasn't getting full movement but still the same.
Duggoey, with regard to clutchless gear changes I can appreciate what you're saying, using the clutch would be kinder on the bike but I've ridden like this for many years and many bikes, only really use the clutch to start off then its shifted through the box without, they are designed to be used this way. If I were trail riding then I would use it more but in a race it's far quicker and easier to shift without the clutch.
Click to expand...
I guess I'm just paranoid about it. I know they CAN take it but I feel you get more trouble than you get in speed improvements. I'd rather use the clutch and not deal with the stress.
 
The 5w40 was working great but as it is 35+℃ hear went to a Castrol 10w40, was great on the trail today happy.:thumbsup:
 
A quite shift without the clutch is far less likely to cause damage than a "CLACK" shift with the clutch. It's all about technique.
 
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