• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Electric Start is OK, but manual kick start is a no go?

Rizzkid

Rizzkid

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a 2012 TE310 which starts great with magic red button (electric start).

I wanted to try out the manual kick starter and I could not get it started. Go back to the red button and all is well.

Is there a special sequence? I tuned on key, primed injector (fuel) using the red button, then tried the kick starter with and without the black choke lever pulled. Cant do it!!!:excuseme:

I have other bikes, KX250 and the hard:confused: starting DR350s and I have no issues, so it is not my poor kicking technique.

Any ideas?????
 
Rizzkid - back before estarts and FI, there was a whole starting sequence that most 4 strokes required. Outside temps, whether or not the bike was enriched with fuel, and temp of the motor all play into it, and require different technique. I SWORE I was going to take back my 1st 4stroke to the dealer, but breaking it in COMPLETELY helped tremendously. Is your bike fully broken in? It's definitely different than 2stroke starting procedure though, but since you have the DR, you should be familiar with the basics. They are ALL different though.

Basically, you want your piston right at TDC or slightly past and you <might> want your throttle cracked a hair - (as least with carbed bikes I did) - then you kick. Long, smooth stroke. If the bike is hot, that complicates things, but basically it's the same drill. It takes awhile to "get it", and most 4 strokes have different "personalities" that require a different dance. Hot starts, decompression levers to help you get right up to and slightly past TDC, and an idle screw to open the carb up a tad - especially helpful if you HAVE a carb and your bike is hot and flooded (I know your 310 doesn't). Good luck with it. It takes awhile to get the hang of what your specific bike wants, and learn how she wants to be kicked. :D Sorry, I'm not familiar enough with the new 310's to know anything specific. Keep at it - you'll master it.
 
My 2010 TXC 250 likes this sequence:

Neutral gear, clutched in
Fuel pump on
One slow push down the lever to the peg and let it back up
Weight your foot until you hit resistance on the kicker and then give it a firm, swift kick

When I do that, it is usually a first or maybe second kick bike.

I was told to never crack the throttle on our EFI Huskies. Use the red (well its red on mine - on the clutch perch) cold start "enrichening lever" if the bike is cold.
 
Guys, thanks for the tips. I was able to start it by pulling in the clutch. The manual does not mention this. I do not understand why the clutch needs to be pulled in for kickstart and not for electric start?
 
WOW! thanks for the advice, had my TE250 since spring and have never been able to kick it. I gave up on it. After reading the advice here I thought I'd give it one more try, it started on the 3rd kick. I have never been able to kick start any bike (besides my kid's little Hondas) ever before. I had fun riding a dirt bike years ago as a teen, but never got one of my own because I could not start it by myself. Only bought my 1st bike a couple years ago because it had e-start. Thanks again.
 
Cool. Glad you guys figured it out! :cheers: Just brought home my new (to me) TE450, and my son asked if I kick started it when trying it out. I said "no, why should I it has the button" and he challenged me, so I did. Pulled in the comp release, found what seemed like TDC, and it fired up and purred like a kitten before the kickstart even hit the bottom of it's stroke. Cake. Easiest 450+ bike I've ever kicked over. Really very simple. Still stock mapping though. Need to work on that next.....

Cheers,

bp
 
Rizzkid said:
Guys, thanks for the tips. I was able to start it by pulling in the clutch. The manual does not mention this. I do not understand why the clutch needs to be pulled in for kickstart and not for electric start?
Click to expand...

I though the clutch was needed for safety purposes in the case where the bike was started in gear from a dead stop ...The disengaged clutch would prevent the bike from lurching forward ...

Someone else pointed out the case where the engine is running and the estart is engaged ... With the clutch engaged, the estart gears or whatever else in the engine might all mesh together at high speed and who knows what might happen then ...
 
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