• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

ELECTREX after market ignition

speedyauto

speedyauto

Husqvarna
A Class
ELECTREX after market ignition-- worth every dollar.
Well hello to you all, it's been awhile.
To those that dont know my project I have a 2007 250WR Husky frame with either a AE430 engine or an 85 Husky CR500 engine that gets fitted depending on how I feel.
Now the dilema I was having was that I've never been able to start the 500 using the kick start (lots of swearing & sweat) but it would push start easily.
So I read a few reports on here & bought an ELECTREX ignition, fitting was pretty straight forward.
So the scene is this, really cold night, the fuel in the carby was 4 months old, pushed the kick start thru twice for priming & then on the 1st kick it fired into life (scared the crap out of me as I didn't think it would start). I had to shut it down quickly as 10pm at night the neighbours might get annoyed.

So I put it back together & go riding, 1st kick every time, my jetting needs fixing but being able to start this bike so easily, such as after a rear brake stall while still rolling with my left foot, I kicked it & it fired, this amazing.

THANKYOU ELECTREX.
PS- if you're having trouble starting your toy don't think twice about this product, just buy it.
 
I can second that. I have fit 4 of this units and they are all working fantastic. Great starting and no kickback.

I plan I trying an external rotor for a 430 to compare low end flywheel grunt in the corners.
 
I bought one and tried to get a reply from them about the item, I found it better to contact the guy who makes them in Belgium he helped me with the problem which turned out they sent me the wrong one for my CR400 Husky but never got the right one off them so I don't have a lot of good things to say about them.
 
I got an internal rotor (don't know which model it is, I just gave them the motor year & size & crank shaft size) & I have to agree with Euro bikes, I sent an email last week for a couple of questions & still no reply after 2 follow up prompts.
Really poor customer back up but I love that it starts easy.
 
HPI is the company that make them, after I year trying to get reply from ELECTREX while I was building this bike I serial emailed them just to see weather I could piss them off enough to get a reply, finally I did but they would not swap the internal rotor for a external one which I asked for to start with. The internal rotor has no flywheel weight for a 400 which kept stalling in the corners, weights can be added but that was more money again . So no big fan of this company.
 
I have one on my 1984 CR250 think its great. The bike consistantly starts. Nothing worse than a poor starting mx bike. Beautiful big juicy spark!

As to problems with the company themselves? Why not buy from HVA factory? then you have a much better chance of getting the correct unit for your bike and better company service too****************************************! :banana: I will be fitting my other bike with one over the winter......
 
We work closely and have a good working relationship with Electrex and feed back any issues that customers have with the systems we sell. Most of the units are actually made in their workshops in the UK - I was there last month.

We have found one issue recently with the need for keeping both of the keyways on the external rotor system - to cover crankshaft variants.

The one system that does come from HPI has no keyway, and whilst this is not really essential, I for one would prefer that they had one to save time re-setting the ignition after a re-build.

I machine them in for my personal bikes, but it is not easy!

Andy
 
Breaching a keyway on an inside tapered diameter isn't easy.

The tapered shaft is a tee shaped milling machine cutter to cut a woodruff key..
 
Since there is no keyway on the output shaft on the tranny that's a precise fit. The mating of the two angles has to be spot on. I would trust the flywheel with no key. I understand the reassembly with a key for location is faster.

On the old jeeps with the tapered axles and keys. I would lap the hub on the axle with lapping compound to clean up the taper on both parts. Once I get a good lapped surface I would wash it clean install the key and tighten it up. If a poor fit was assembled then the hub would turn back and forth making the key round in time. When I was rebuilding machines I found many round keys that where once square from being poorly fitted in the beginning. Or not tightened up enough.

I never had a problem with a husqvarna tapered shaft.
 
We just fitted a Electrex Ignition to my friends 86 400 WR. Try to start it and back fired and kicked back. What are timing setting others have used?
 
I have found with both Electrex and Power Dynamo that a little bit more retard than stock is called for.
The 78 390WR was stock at 2.2mm BTDC, I run this at 1.9mm BTDC and it is perfect. The 390 Auto is at 1.65mm BTDC. I could retard them a little more too.
I am guessing this is because they have a built in advance curve. Whereas the old Motoplat was fixed.

I no longer use Electrex in mine. Just Power Dynamo (MZB).
 
Hi Andy quick question so at TDC just move the stator plate to the little scribe circle that you have the arrow with? So should not go 3 like 3 mm btc? Also I see you have a different fly wheel nut. I was using the original. Thanks for the help.
 

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I installed over 14 units so far. Maybe more. Just use your standard Btc.for your model I always set back just a hair so on 430 2.2 would be normal so I set at 2.1 just to allow a bit of leyway and i found just a bit to much advance on 430 they run hot.

This is for air cooled 81 82 not water cooled
 
GaryM what do you use for a fly wheel nut? Andy's flywheel nut is different then stock.
 

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In answer to Photoguy,

No. The white mark at the top of the crankcase (Top Dead) is 18 degrees away (equal to 2.2/2.4mm) from the white mark to its left - the one on the adjustable stator plate (pointer).

The little 'dot' that I have centre punched is only a reminder as to which of the 2 broached keyways is the one to use (usually the left one but this may vary bike to bike) if I ever have to remove the flywheel. We put a new ignition nut in each kit before we send them out (if I remember****************************************)

If you were to run the bike and put a strobe on it, the strobe would illuminate the FA mark on the flywheel in line with the white mark on the stator plate pointer.

Yes, it is that simple****************************************

Andy.
 
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