• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc eg 144 jetting

skid

Husqvarna
A Class
08 cr 125

Remember ... its an 08 don't get it confused with the 09/10's jetting numbers ....

anyway ....

I rode on an easy mx track at 60 degrees. I believe it has a 35 pilot and the needle is in the #3 slot, screw was out 1.5 to 2 turns. 410 main was in for the first part of the ride.

Everything I have read about 144's says you end up having to lean out the bike some. in 125 trim I was running the 35 or 32.5 pilot, a 390 or 400 main, needle in the 3 slot at 55 degrees when I popped the top end last fall when I put the fmf pipe on. I had checked the plug during that ride and it was a dry gray I honestly though it did not look bad .. maybe a bit lean. it popped on a short 6th wfo run.

So I'm out running around on the 144 and decide i should check the plug. It doesn't look bad a nice dry gray maybe a bit lean ...hmmm it looks the same as it did when I popped it last fall. oh oh .... I thought 144's are suppose to go leaner??? I pull the 410 and put in a 420. I ride around some more .. come in ... the bike did not sound or feel any different and the plug did not look any different. same dry gray kind of lean look it had back in the fall as a 125 and a few minutes before with the 410 in. Shouldn't there be a noticable difference in the plug going from a 410 to a 420. I could always tell a difference on my 300 when I went up or down a size on the main. I've got a 430 and 440 on order and plan to pop in the 40 pilot jet. but this is going in the wrong direction from what i've read??? Possible air leak some where??

thought please

btw I'll post a real ride report when I get it sorted and some real riding done ... but fwiw, I went with a more bottom and mid woods set up ... definitely got more bottom not tons but if I get it sorted ..... gotta think it will be nice
 
Skid,

When I made the 144 switch the jetting I was running before was too rich. But you need to remember the bike ran so bad before that I don't know if the comparison is any good. Anyway the difference will be subtle at best. I can tell you that EG does not re-grind the bottom side of the power valves to bring them up to where a 144 should be. When I re-ground the pv's to about a 2mm width paralleling the top the bottom thru mid really woke up.

Walt
 
I just took my new 144 out for a break in ride.
I left the same 32.5 60/3 400 jets in it. It carbed fine. I felt a definite increase in low/mid power but the top seems about the same. No bog just a broader/smooth power band. Now the bike with clutch into a 2nd gear wheelie with way less drama.
Oh, I got the pump gas head mod too.

I did notice Wallybean is correct, the lower edge of the PV is left untouched by Eric Gorr.

I do notice the off idle response is still rather weak.

Maybe a little adjustment down there will help.

Any recomendations?

Thanks
 
Grind it so that you parallel the top side and make the sealing surface ~2mm wide. I used a black marks-a-lot and painted everything I wanted to remove. Wrap the pv with a shop rag and snug it into a vice. Go easy with the die grinder, the aluminum they use for these is very soft. Grind your new surface at about 60 degrees to the sealing surface. When you have the shape you want then use a sanding bit and smooth the surface.

Do not touch the sealing surface. EG has already ground this to the right tolerance and you don't want to mess that up. You will notice an immediate doubling of low end power. :thumbsup: Quicker response too.

Walt

In the one pic you will see I painted the sealing surface to make it easier to see what I am leaving.
 

Attachments

  • power valve 018.jpg
    power valve 018.jpg
    45.8 KB · Views: 30
  • power valve 023.jpg
    power valve 023.jpg
    38.8 KB · Views: 30
  • power valve 031.jpg
    power valve 031.jpg
    41.1 KB · Views: 28
R little looking at those numbers I gott a assume you have an 08 or older cr .... did you check the plug?? whats it look like. what oil ratio are you running? I'm running 32/1 93 pump gas

your jetting is what i was running when I blew up my 125 with a new fmf pipe at 55 degrees.
 
Back
Top