• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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125-200cc Dumb dyna ring question on a 125...

racemx904

racemx904

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Maybe its not as much a dyna ring question as am I a total retard...

Went to install this thing yesterday....

couldnt get "freeplay" in the lever...

Middle adjuster all the way together(tight).....adjuster on the lever is all the way loose...

what gives?

I will probably have more questions but this is it for now...did my clutch cable shrink? LOL

Now that I am thinking..is there a ball bearing on each end or just the clutch side of the push rod?

could it have got screwed up a little bit or something

guess I need to order a new one...
 
3 steel and fibers on bottom then the ring and 2 and 2 on top....
How many washers did you have to use?
Mine had one washer on top of the thrust washer stock....
When i put the pressure plate on should it push the clutch arm in?

I know I am probably just totally missing something stupid...too tired gonna try tomorrow...lol
 
OK
sounds like maybe you should be riding some thing orange (just kidding)
Using the steel plates that came in it. Stock stell no work
3 fiber and 3 steel. fiber first in. flat side of steels must face dyna ring. ( look for the groove toward the inner edge) then dyana ring and then last 2 steel and fibers. outermost is a fiber. not done yet...you must change the washer on the clutch lifter to the one included in the kit.
there is only 1 ball bearing and yes it is on the outer end of the pushrod. then comes the "tophat" lifter and then the needle bearing and last the washer you swap out the stocker with the one that comes in the kit.

Remember the tighter the cable...the bigger the gap as it is a cable clutch.
 
Didnt notice any differences in the steels...so on the bottom steels flat side up...top steels flat side down...

I put the ring in with the screws up....

The kit I got from troffer was used it has like 3 thin(maybe .5mm) washers and 2-3 thicker(1mm)...the one that was on it was about 1mm...

little question...when I put the pressure plate on..should it move the clutch arm?

hmmm...dang rookies...I install a Z start pro in a hour...I feel dumb not getting this...lol
 
racemx904 said:
Didnt notice any differences in the steels...so on the bottom steels flat side up...top steels flat side down...

I put the ring in with the screws up....

The kit I got from troffer was used it has like 3 thin(maybe .5mm) washers and 2-3 thicker(1mm)...the one that was on it was about 1mm...

little question...when I put the pressure plate on..should it move the clutch arm?

hmmm...dang rookies...I install a Z start pro in a hour...I feel dumb not getting this...lol
Click to expand...
Ha! Dont feel bad. Im in the same boat. I bought one used as well from Cruz. It came with some instructions but nothing like the Rekluse instructions. Cruz offered to help with set up which I am going to eventually take him up on. Mine also had different washers included. Instructions said to add an extra washer instead of swap one out. I think as long as the installed gap is correct it doesnt matter. I just dont know what the gap should be. We will will get it figured out!
 
I installed a Dynaring in my RM250 last year. If I remember correctly I needed to add an extra thrust washer ontop of the supplied thrust washer. The final adjustment was not at the lever but where the 2 cable sleeves join, a little ways down from the lever where 2 8mm wrench`s are required. The Dynaring works awesome. Good luck.
 
well...I sat down in front of the bike...looking at the instructions...the light bulb finally went off in my head...

guess where there isnt "play" like on a Honda....

anyhow it is solved...I think...didnt get to ride it...but I am pretty positive...

Thanks Cafehusky
 
racemx904 said:
well...I sat down in front of the bike...looking at the instructions...the light bulb finally went off in my head...

guess where there isnt "play" like on a Honda....

anyhow it is solved...I think...didnt get to ride it...but I am pretty positive...

Thanks Cafehusky
Click to expand...
Let me know how you make out when you ride it. I might have a question or two!
 
hey no prob....the instructions leave a little to be desired...but it was easy after I removed my head outta my butt...
 
I guess I have another question....

Should the Dyna Ring act like a Z start pro?

right now it is like a Z Start that is dragging..if I sit with clutch out it starts to move...
 
racemx904 said:
I guess I have another question....

Should the Dyna Ring act like a Z start pro?

right now it is like a Z Start that is dragging..if I sit with clutch out it starts to move...
Click to expand...
Yes I have a Z- start pro in my WR300 and a Dynaring in my RM250.. they both want to move forward in gear clutch out on their own, it should take just a little bit of effort to hold them back. It's not like you have to pull back on your handle bars to stop the bike from taking off. They just have a little lurch to them.
 
I cant come to a complete stop like my Z start...although it was on a TE250....maybe a little more tweaking is required...I could slow down to go around a real tight 180 in 3rd gear..no clutch and just gas it out...it didnt come right on the pipe but did very good....so I see promise....just not sure if i need another washer since I am getting kinda far out on the adjuster....
 
racemx904 said:
I cant come to a complete stop like my Z start...although it was on a TE250....maybe a little more tweaking is required...I could slow down to go around a real tight 180 in 3rd gear..no clutch and just gas it out...it didnt come right on the pipe but did very good....so I see promise....just not sure if i need another washer since I am getting kinda far out on the adjuster....
Click to expand...

I was messing around with mine yesterday. I installed only two screws / springs in the ring when I first tried it and I had the same result as you did. I couldnt put the bike in gear without it moving and stalling. Idle up or down it didnt matter. I went back in and added two more screws / springs and the result was much better. I can now put the bike in gear once its warmed up and it "surges" or "pulses" but doesnt stall. It starts to move as soon as I crack the throttle. The only issue I could see is when I pull in the clutch and rev the bike it begins to move at about half throttle. According top the directions the bike should only move closer to full throttle. Keep in mind that this is with brand new fibers and springs. I dont know if the new parts are just dragging as they break in or not. I have ALL of the cable slack out so I can not adjust it any more. I would like to try a .5MM washer added on top of the three already on the bearing. I currently have two 1MM (one is stock) and one .5MM. I dont have any more washers which came with the clutch so I have to poke around the garage. I did notice that three of the five small springs for the ring are shorter than the two newer ones. I wonder if there are replacement parts out there???
 
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