• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Dumb 2st questions...

Troy F Collins;28511 said:
Yes..that looks like whats going to happen....and the quality or durability???....must be addressing the fit and weld issues with the spanny...
Click to expand...
the new proper-fitting exhaust has more midrange power (and the quality is much better), the new exhaust valves add to this. also, there are new brackets that connect the cylinder head with the frame (the old ones are likely to break).

Joe Chod;28512 said:
The bore shape/size of the PV's in the cylinder is what it is and can't be changed (well it can but not without re-working the cylinder part) What I mean, the new PV HAS to fit into that space.
Click to expand...
the new exhaust valves are slightly longer, in order to compensate supplyer bad quality. however, the valves do not totally open anymore, but this is just a cosmetic issue.

PC.;28537 said:
Do Husky smokers have this same setup?
Click to expand...
on the 125 you can change the spring without much efforts. on the 250/300, no.

r
 
Thanks Rasputin.
I gather from the Bavaria and Lombardy your list as location you are with BMW and or Husqvarna. I congratulate the engineers there for taking the time to really look into this especially as the 2 stroke seems to be dying in some areas. Is the PV longer on the valve part or the stem part? The stem was strenghtened and changed in the past (made thicker) Can you provide any detail on the cylinder porting itself? Pisture would be great.

Joe
 
rasputin;28554 said:
the new proper-fitting exhaust has more midrange power (and the quality is much better), the new exhaust valves add to this. also, there are new brackets that connect the cylinder head with the frame (the old ones are likely to break).


the new exhaust valves are slightly longer, in order to compensate supplyer bad quality. however, the valves do not totally open anymore, but this is just a cosmetic issue.


on the 125 you can change the spring without much efforts. on the 250/300, no.

r
Click to expand...


Welcome to cafe husky....and we graciously appreciate your input
:thumbsup:


Also good input Joe :notworthy:
 
rasputin;28554 said:
the new proper-fitting exhaust has more midrange power (and the quality is much better), the new exhaust valves add to this. also, there are new brackets that connect the cylinder head with the frame (the old ones are likely to break).


the new exhaust valves are slightly longer, in order to compensate supplyer bad quality. however, the valves do not totally open anymore, but this is just a cosmetic issue.


on the 125 you can change the spring without much efforts. on the 250/300, no.

r
Click to expand...

Are we blessed with Great people in the know or what****************************************:D :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I would love to post the update pics I have ..but its on a word document and I cant link it...but the photos show an unpainted like an FMF F pipe updated.. that goes UNDER the shock reservoir..the change up cyl. head brackets are hand rolled metal...not machined like previous....and the silent block or isolator is larger and of different shape....


it also mentions that the barrel must come off to R+R the PV's......but the kit doesnt list a base gask as part of the update

I dont see why the Cylinder must come off...??????

Ok .....just checked...there is not enough room at the frame downtube.....
 
Troy F Collins;28607 said:
I would love to post the update pics I have ..but its on a word document and I cant link it...
Click to expand...

You could attach it to a post. If it contains other things you do not want to share delete those parts and 'save as' to a different file name.

Or right click the pic in the word doc then copy/paste into MS paint (assuming it is a PC and not a Mac) then save the pic that way.
 
Here is the PERFORMANCE UPGRADE sent to us. Hope it's OK I post
this...:D If not I'll take it down...

PERFORMANCEUPGRADE-1.jpg
 
HuskyDude;28621 said:
Here is the PERFORMANCE UPGRADE sent to us. Hope it's OK I post
this...:D If not I'll take it down...

PERFORMANCEUPGRADE-1.jpg
Click to expand...

Hey Dave let us know if smoke starts billowing from your PC and or the lights start flickering....:D

Thanks a bunch Dave !!!
 
Joe Chod;28558 said:
I gather from the Bavaria and Lombardy your list as location you are with BMW and or Husqvarna.
Click to expand...
bmw: no. i come from this other "car city" in bavaria.

Is the PV longer on the valve part or the stem part?
Click to expand...
the valve part is longer (only the lower "port" side, of course), so that the port is lower when the valve is closed.

r
 
How did i miss all this info. So...

- The powervalves are not long enough / supplier issue

- The pipe does in fact get a tuning change for more mid not just a redirect so it can stop rubbing a hole in the shock res. Interesting as i think it got dropped for the "new" bulletin kit (the pipe)
 
this is prob a stupid question but i went the local dirt bike shop to buy a new spark plug i showed them the manual and it calls for a ngk br9eg and they gave me a ngk b8es should or can i use it?
 
If it calls for a resistor type plug (the "R" in your BR9eg plug) you should use a resistor type plug (not the standard type that they sold you) or ignition performance could suffer noticeably. Also, they sold you a plug that was one step hotter than what your manual called for. That may not be a terrible thing all by itself, but running too hot a plug can cause overheating and engine damage, so best to run what you are supposed to.
 
Dirtdame;32676 said:
If it calls for a resistor type plug (the "R" in your BR9 plug) you should use a resistor type plug or ignition performance could suffer noticeably. Also, they sold you a plug that was one step hotter than what your manual called for. That may not be a terrible thing all by itself, but running too hot a plug can cause overheating and engine damage, so best to run what you are supposed to.
Click to expand...

Exactly....


Also the electrode design is different from an EG to an ES

I would request the same part number as what you were running....
 
Okay, here's a couple dumb 2st questions.

The manual for my '08 CR125 says to run 24:1 for the first several hours before switching to 32:1 for good. These seem to be much more oily mix ratios than are in style these days. (40:1 seems popular, and my buddy's KTM 200 calls for 50:1). I plan on switching away from the 24:1 after this weekend's enduro. Should I go to the recommended 32:1 or some other ratio? I'm using Sunoco 93 pump gas with Maxima Super M synthetic blend. Runs awesome with stock jetting at the 24:1, but I'm thinking about changing my username to "Spoogebob Blackswingarm."

My next dumb 2st question is whether there's any benefit to running a carburetor vent line filter? The chief benefit for 4st bikes is preventing titanium valve wear. Any benefit for the smokers?

And the final dumb 2st question for the day is whether it's necessary to run one of the carb vent lines up to the steering head to prevent fuel starvation in water crossings? I had to do that for my TE, but does it matter with the CR?
 
dfeckel;33032 said:
Okay, here's a couple dumb 2st questions.

The manual for my '08 CR125 says to run 24:1 for the first several hours before switching to 32:1 for good. These seem to be much more oily mix ratios than are in style these days. (40:1 seems popular, and my buddy's KTM 200 calls for 50:1). I plan on switching away from the 24:1 after this weekend's enduro. Should I go to the recommended 32:1 or some other ratio? I'm using Sunoco 93 pump gas with Maxima Super M synthetic blend. Runs awesome with stock jetting at the 24:1, but I'm thinking about changing my username to "Spoogebob Blackswingarm."

My next dumb 2st question is whether there's any benefit to running a carburetor vent line filter? The chief benefit for 4st bikes is preventing titanium valve wear. Any benefit for the smokers?

And the final dumb 2st question for the day is whether it's necessary to run one of the carb vent lines up to the steering head to prevent fuel starvation in water crossings? I had to do that for my TE, but does it matter with the CR?
Click to expand...

I've run 40:1 in my 125, but I'm going to switch to 50:1, which I run in my 250's. Run both top vent lines up into air box to prevent stalling in deep water. Use a carb filter to prvent dirt from getting in vent line and then carb. I learned my lesson at Curley Fern enduro a few years ago..... I had vent lines in airbox, but no filter. A few grains of sand got in carb and were jamming slide open, no fun. I've use a small Rx bottle zip tied in the airbox with a piece of foam in it and holes drilled for a filter.
 
For me, it's 32:1 for the '09 CR 125 and 50:1 for the '09 WR 300... just like the owner's manuals calls for. Both bikes run like scalded dogs, no spooge and minimal smoke. I have a hard time understanding why folks choose to run a leaner oil mix than the OEM recommends.
 
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