250-500cc Dragging clutch is dragging me down...

[giantjoe]

First off, I love my bike! (2010 WR300) I don't know how many comments I've gotten this year along the lines of "when did you get so fast?", and "are you planning on racing this year?". I'm fighting the pumpkin patrol and trying to let them see that a bike that's thousands of dollars cheaper can compete with the all powerful XC.

Here's my issue. My bike does not start in gear, I have a Rekluse, have messed with the cable slack, rechecked my clutch pack and Rekluse installation, everything is as it should be. I've tried a couple different oils, still no success. After doing some searching I came across this post...

I did and he told me what to do. Food for thought but if you are having clutch drag issues you can adjust the rod length by removing the clutch cover and losing the jam nut. Clockwise makes the rod longer thus opening the clutch a bit more which should eliminate drag.

What is this guy talking about? Anyone done it? Where is this nut, if you give me some hints I'll do a video of it since it seems the clutch drag is a common problem on the 250/300.

 

[giantjoe]

I guess I lied, it will start in gear, but you gotta give it some throttle, and it regularly stalls while idling. (not a low idle problem)

 

[PowerKord]

One thing that you can do which does help is to install a Terminator clutch cable by Motion Pro. You probably have to call Motion Pro and have them make you one, but they get it done quickly. I was having a lot clutch drag problems on my 250 and had tried different oils and adjusting the stock cable. Dirtdame mentioned using the Motion Pro cable. The cable housing is much stiffer than stock and transfers energy more efficiently to the clutch actuator arm. It helped my bike a lot, less creeping, stalling, usually starts in gear no problem.

 

[giantjoe]

Is this what I'm looking for or is it custom?

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/10-0150/

 

[PowerKord]

No that's not the one. The one you want is "longitudinally wound" rather than coil wound. I think it is a standard cable for Motion Pro, but not for the newer Huskies. If you call them just tell them what bike you have and you want the "longitudinally wound" option.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/01-0474/

 

[giantjoe]

A couple more answers related to this...

Shorten your stock cable about 3 inches. Zip Ty Racing or Tys Dad Terry at Terry Cable can do it for you.Makes a big difference

Went for a nice long loop today. The clutch was not perfect, but noticeably better. It was smoother and actually could be engaged a little ways from the grip, instead of right at it. Now I don't get that creeping effect when I have the clutch pulled in, in tight technical situations. I can have the front brake applied while turning a tricky almost full lock, downhill turn in rocks without having the bike get pushed or stalling. The new cable makes it easier to find neutral too(although that isn't perfect, just better).

The cable is built by MotionPro. You have to call them directly to have it made. They make a standard OEM style of cable for the WRs (listed as a 10-0150), so you have to ask for the Terminator or longitudinally wound housing version. It takes close to two weeks to get the cable after you order it. The cable costs 46.00 plus shipping. It is very heavy duty and thick compared to the stock one. It was a well spent investment for this particular bike. My stock cable is now an emergency spare, although I doubt that I will ever need it.

I'd say "mission accomplished"!

 

[PowerKord]

Yep, that's the one Dirtdame mentioned. Ask for 10-0150 LW.

 

[ohmygewd]

I'd go Venhill featherlight teflon coated clutch cable and a ezy pull lever...makes a world of difference on my 360 and hardly lube the thing!!!
http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_&_Ca...008-11/H01-3-017F_HUSQVARNA_CLUTCH_CABLE.html

Also, play with the cable adjuster from the clutch basket side, l have barely little play and suffer very little clutch creep for a 12 year bike with oem clutch plates.

 

[454x]

First off, I love my bike! (2010 WR300) I don't know how many comments I've gotten this year along the lines of "when did you get so fast?", and "are you planning on racing this year?". I'm fighting the pumpkin patrol and trying to let them see that a bike that's thousands of dollars cheaper can compete with the all powerful XC.

Here's my issue. My bike does not start in gear, I have a Rekluse, have messed with the cable slack, rechecked my clutch pack and Rekluse installation, everything is as it should be. I've tried a couple different oils, still no success. After doing some searching I came across this post...



What is this guy talking about? Anyone done it? Where is this nut, if you give me some hints I'll do a video of it since it seems the clutch drag is a common problem on the 250/300.

What REKLUSE are you running? Clutch pull should be a non issue with the Z-START PRO .I wouldn't think the auto clutch would drag.Checked your clearance's lately?I have the EXP and mine starts in gear no problem.

 

[giantjoe]

Yes, Z-Start Pro. I just pulled it last week to change the engagement point. It's all snug and happy. Perhaps a call or email to Rekluse is in order...

 

[giantjoe]

Update: I emailed Rekluse, and they said perhaps my clutch center nut was too tight. I pulled everything apart and adjusted it to spec and started reassembling. In the process I lost one of the tiny little washers needed to hold in the friction disks. RAGE! So I pulled it all apart and installed the stock clutch again. After doing so, I remembered the post about the little jam nut and lengthening the rod, and checked what he could have possibly meant.

Figured it out. I lengthened the rod by a half turn and proceeded to reassemble. Started the bike up, adjusted the clutch, and no drag whatsoever. Let's see what happens after my ride tomorrow... (I guess I'll have to call Rekluse for a new washer as well )

 

[Dirtdame]

Make sure that the little nut has at least a quarter turn before the rod bottoms out. If there's no freeplay, the clutch might slip when the engine gets hot.

 

[giantjoe]

Update:
At the beginning of the ride it seems to be fine, but as time goes on, it gets to creeping again. I just ordered a Motion Pro cable. :fingerscrossed

 

[giantjoe]

More updates... Still not solved. I purchased the Motion Pro cable and it helped, although it's still not perfect. I figured it was a waste of money to have the Rekluse just sitting on my shelf so I reinstalled it. It does idle now, but not on downhills. I talked with one of my friends about this and he said there's nothing wrong with your clutch...

He suggested the stalling during downhills had nothing to do with the clutch at all, but rather the relative float position while going downhill. He figured the bike was flooding itself because of the float position (while going downhill) in the bowl.He suggested setting the air screw by warming up the bike well, then adjusting the air screw until the idle was at it's highest point, then adjust the idle to suit. This alone may solve the problem.

If the bike is indeed flooding itself during downhill excursions, adding throttle helps to add air and prevent the stall, if the air screw is adjusted it may well compensate for this richer condition. If there is no result after the air screw adjustment, then setting the float a little lower in the bowl would also help the situation. I'm going to try this before the next ride and see if it helps.

 

[razornpc]

yeah, mine drags terrible.

if its in gear and i stall it i usually have to find neutral and it will fire right up. if its hot and i really kick it hard it might start but like i said its usually going to need to be put back into neutral.

new stock cable and lever and perch.

 

[Chef]

When put the rekluse in my cr250, I realized I needed a more reliable and adjustable idle, I switched to a pwk and things were better.