DIY Power up?

[kingmoochr]

powered up today. only had 100 miles under my belt on the supermoto, but its definitely a lot smoother and sounds healthier. i have 4 extra resistors if someone doesn't have an electronics store near by...

 

[d k]

Hi.
Noob here.

Is it possible that adding the resistor changes to map B?

d

 

[jtemple]

I put mine in myself without any tuning and there were no ill effects. My dealer said tuning would help, but wasn't necessary.

 

[kingmoochr]

The consensus appears to be that the resistor automatically switches the ECU into another map. There is no way it could function properly if it were trying to use an O2 sensor that was no longer hooked up (as that would throw an error in any ECU using an O2) so either the dealer IS actually using an aftermarket tuner to adjust your bike, or they're blowing smoke. No manual ECU changes are required after installing the resistor.

 

[WhiteAndRed]

Just got 2011 TE630 3 days ago. Such a slick bike but obviously in need of some help with idle, off idle, surging issues. Bought the resistors the day before yesterday and am really ithing to do the power up but don't want to run into any warrenty issues before I get some miles on her to be sure the reliable (which it seems to be). Got about a 100 miles now. I was poking around the airbox (wow, now that's an airbox - lots going on in there) and trying to remove the tank.

The hose clamps that link the left and right side of the tank need to be removed (at least one of them) but they use those little permanent style clamps. Did everyone just pry those off and replace with regular clamps or am I missing something?

Then there's the charcoal canister. Looks like the top of the tank vents into it. So to get rid of it, do you just seal the tank top nipple with a vacuum cap? How will the tank breath as the gas is consumed? Non issue? Or does it need to breath? The one to the engine is a no brainer, just cap.

Thrilled with the new ride and just dyin to get it powered up, and let those ponies run free.

 

[kingmoochr]

I had normal reusable clamps on my crossover hose...so not sure there. The tank should be allowed to vent still, but it's just vapor, zip tie the hose to the downtube somewhere and you should be fine. Need to work on de-emissioning mine soon (wanted to wait until after the 1st service, so there weren't any questions from the dealer). Do the resistor, and if you have problems, just remove it. I ordered the plug from Husky to keep all oem parts in that regard, but I ran just the resistor until it arrived. There is no way to know if you reinstall the o2 before taking it in.

 

[WhiteAndRed]

Did the resistor PU. Nice pick up all over the powerband, especially the low end. I figured I'd have to adjust the idle down but it remained about the same. Is this normal?

Removed the airbox maze. Can hear the intake sound now. No biggie.

To remove the tank, I pryed off the permanent style hose clamp and replaced it with one of the clamps from the emssions canister which has a new home not on my bike. I also used one of the hoses from the canister and routed it over the front fairing for use as a vent. Thinking it's not a great place and will prolly rerout soon.

Next weekend. Exhaust. The exhaust still gets damn hot.

 

[CJBROWN]

For what its worth, I used the same power up components (those mentioned by Jtemple) that were installed in my 2008 TE510 directly to my 2011 TE630 before I ever started it from the dealer and it runs perfect. In addition, on 630 USA models you must remove the plastic air restrictor stuck behind the foam air cleaner. IMO waiting till its broke in only harms the engine by running it excessively lean during the phase when the engine easily builds heat.

This is my take on the subject.

Picked up a new 630 yesterday and didn't even start it till I did the PU, airbox baffle removal, canister-ectomy, and re-routed the tank vent. Reset the idle from 2200 to 1750. It runs like a clock. A whole 12 miles on it now!

It starts and idles perfectly, no surges, no backfires, no hesitations, no flat spots. It just runs perfectly all they way up. And it rips!

 

[jtemple]

This is my take on the subject.

Picked up a new 630 yesterday and didn't even start it till I did the PU, airbox baffle removal, canister-ectomy, and re-routed the tank vent. Reset the idle from 2200 to 1750. It runs like a clock. A whole 12 miles on it now!

It starts and idles perfectly, no surges, no backfires, no hesitations, no flat spots. It just runs perfectly all they way up. And it rips!

Once you ride it some and loosen the engine up a little, it'll be perfect!

 

[motranqui]

Hi folks

This is my first post apart from the “introduce yourself” one. I beg you forgive me because of my poor skills on writing in English. I’ll do my best, anyway.



I’m looking for a second hand TE 630. So far I’ve tested two units (one from 2010 and the other one from 2012) and was terrified with performance… you know, when I close the throttle and I’m on the gas again, the bike first has hesitation… and suddenly jerked around… crackle, surges. I’ve read a lot of threads in this forum about this issue and, thanks to that, now I can figure out where the problems come from (both bikes had the O2 sensor plugged…)

I’ve got a TE 310 from 2010, which is “full power” setting, and it runs really good. So I’m familiarize with p/u kit, open airbox and exhaust issues (mine is, of course without o2 sensor, without snorkel and without dbkiller)

As I wouldn’t need that my TE630 bike runs like the best one in the Word , I was wondering if I put the p/u kit plus open up the air box plus replace the stock can by a more open one (or just “decatting) will be enough to have a good performance -balance bike… as may be re-mapping is not required (Husqvarna’s factory B map could be good enough.)

As I have the small TE310, I don’t mind if TE630 don’t get the best of it, but on the other hand, I want a smooth and lineal bike for enjoy long trails without having to worry about a “weird motor performance”

As most of you think, I also believe that plugging the p/u kits tunes the ECU from mode A to mode B (racing)… and so it demands an open air box plus an “open” exhaust (what makes both thing runs the motor cooler and so better) But maybe, if by doing this, bike runs good enough, I would not need to “split hairs” going on JD jetting, IBeat or similar…



What do you think?



Another questions that I´d laike to make are:

• Are there any remarkable differences between 2010 and 2011 models?
• What do you mean by IMO? (I found it in a lot of threads and I have no idea of the meaning)
• What exhaust would you recommend me that increase performance but being street- legal. I’m not really concern about saving weight. It wouldn’t be too much expensive…
• As in Spain we have to pass every two years “periodic performance-eco & safety inspections”, Dou you think that by plugging again the O2 sensor, ECU will return to “A” mode”

Looking for input from all you pro's that have already been through one. Thanks a lot for your answers.

 

[Homerb]

IMO = In My Opinion

 

[rancher1]

Plugging in the O2 sensor and removing the lambda plug will revert to the "A" mode. There is not much difference between the years of 630s.

 

[rancher1]

I would also consider the 2008-2009 TE610s as well, they are very good bikes as well.

 

[motranqui]

OK, thanks. I also consider 2008-2009 TE610, but because of the SMR thread I go more for a 630. Also 630 seems a Little bit more "road oriented" that TE610, and as I have the TE310, I prefere the first option.

 

[DYNOBOB]

There is no A map and B map in the ecu. The PU resistor returns a voltage value to the ecu that causes it to fuel in its richer ranges. However, I have dyno'd two different 630's and can tell you for certain that the PU kit alone does not enrich enough at high rpm/high load, if you don't want to eventually cause damage to rod bearings or head gasket you need to add ~18-20% more fuel at high rpm. You can add the fuel several different ways. The bikes are actually a little rich at lower rpm and only slightly lean in the midrange w/ the PU kit.

Good luck in your search, they are great bikes!

.

 

[motranqui]

Thank you, DinoBob (by the way, what a lovely little child on the bike! )



So I’m afraid the easiest way to get the bike runs properly, without having to go with IBeat , etc, y by exchanging the stock exhaust for the arrow ones, that include a new “full power” ECU

Am I right?

Anyway there is something that I don’t understand. As far as I know, I thought that the amount of fuel going into the cylinder was really important (as the fuel is mixed with the oil that lubricates the inner parts of the cylinder, bearings, etc.) in two- stroke engines while in four- stroke engines, having several oil pumps that make that work, was not important at all ... regarding to engine lubrication
May be I'm wrong...

 

[DYNOBOB]

You are right, the amount of fuel has nothing to do with lubrication on a four stroke.

I don't have first hand knowledge of the Arrow exhaust/ecu results but would assume that if they went to the trouble to offer the product that it was thoroughly developed on a dyno/sniffer. If it was my bike I'd still seek out a dyno and verify it is making clean pulls to redline. I don't know if it's possible to adjust fueling with the Arrows ecu. I think iBeat is the best all around option for our bikes, you can adjust fueling and pull error codes with out relying on a dealer.

.

 

[motranqui]

Thank you, Dynobob. I'm a bit of slow on "understanding" all the options for “setting the bike correctly” as it’s a bit hard for a no native English speaker to understand all the information (there's a lot of slang, words like “IMO” or “You might want to PM him on ADV also” and so on, as well as technical words that make me get lost quite a lot of times! )



Anyway, step by step… a lot of hours reading… I just get this info from the thread
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te630-dyno-results-and-thoughts.24763/page-9

"We already had iBeat. If you don't buy it, make sure you can find it to use it to set TPS and CO's at least once or twice.

What has worked great for us on the TE 630's.

Make the gear ratio 3.0

Cut open the air box lid (behind the protection of the side cover) as much as possible, leaving the rubber grommet in place of course, no snorkel, no way. I zip tie the side panels on to btw. Check and secure the air box vent hose with a drilled in cotter key and check and bottom out the air box in to the air boot while your there. (Mine needed attention)

Get the p/u cap and plug installed.

Ditch the stock exhaust. The FMF Power Core 4 is the best (and maybe only choice now) for a single exhaust imo. After completing the items above, the FMF was the best improvement power wise, I made for the 630's.

Get the things above done and get your bike on iBeat and set the CO's to DYNOBOB's stated 108-108-116 or 110-110-120 and you will be much happier with your 630.

I tried the stock exhaust with the cats cut out and the awesome WINGS Ti twin exhausts. The stock twin pipe set up will always be heaver then a single system and the twins will dump all that heat under your shock and battery box. Weight and heat not good for an off road bike. Twins on a Supermoto sure.

The general consensus is setting the CO's with iBeat to the proper setting for the mods done is the way to go. Don't spend your money on a piggy back item like a JD tuner or Power Commander. Guys with a piggyback have removed them after using DYNOBOB's recommend settings. Put that money towards a single exhaust, imo.

I recently rode my 630 on some s/t, with a fresh Kenda K270 rear tire. I was thoroughly impressed. I cleared a long and snotty hill climb on the 630 just as if I was on the 510. The power and delivery felt the same between the two bike. I thought I would have to rev the 630 higher because of the gearing, but it was perfect, maybe even better then the 510. The 3.0 gearing with the above mods is perfect for the 630 imo. I will not be changing the gearing. It will throttle wheelie in 2nd gear, with traction of course.

XLEnduroMan, Nov 14, 2014 House Keeping “