• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

DIY Power up?

Dc.allen

Dc.allen

Husqvarna
Bike is a SMS630 and I want to do the Lambda delete.

I've got the block off plug for the exhaust. What parts would I need to make my own plug to replace the Lambda sensor plug?


Thanks
--DANIEL--
 
Here's a breakdown of the OEM parts you need and their prices.

The Oxygen Sensor Connector contains a jumper inside it with a resistor. I'm not sure of the resistor value.

Personally, the cost savings isn't worth the hassle for me. I just bought the parts instead.

Oxygen Sensor Plug, P/N 8000A7724, $22.50

Gasket, O2 Sensor Plug, P/N 8000A7749, $1.25

Oxygen Sensor Connector, P/N 8000A6750, $16.95
 
Dc.allen said:
Bike is a SMS630 and I want to do the Lambda delete.

I've got the block off plug for the exhaust. What parts would I need to make my own plug to replace the Lambda sensor plug?

Thanks
--DANIEL--
Click to expand...
According to the dealer who did my SM630 Lamda delete, there is some required calibration of the ECU using diagnostic tools over and above the hardware changes.
 
HuskyBrutha said:
According to the dealer who did my SM630 Lamda delete, there is some required calibration of the ECU using diagnostic tools over and above the hardware changes.
Click to expand...


There's the topic again --> "Dealers switching 630 ECUs to 'B' mode."

I'm only harping on this subject because I'm hoping to find some truth to it. However, my gut reaction is that Dealers might be prone to blowing a little harmless sunshine in order to make an extra buck or two. The 'power-up' is so simple. (Having done it on both a TE310 and a SM630.) It's hard to imagine that Dealers can charge anything for a 630 power-up. Unless.... They've got some mysterious special equipment that switches the ECU from mild to wild. If that were really the case, I'm sure that lots of people would like to know --- Where do I mail my ECU!!!??

In all seriousness, I hope that my gut turns out to be wrong. If it were true, wouldn't there be some documentation released to the dealers? Certainly someone on this forum would have access to that information. It would be really big news.
 
I did mine just by installing the parts. You're probably talking about some iBeat tweaks. My dealer said they would help, but weren't necessary.
 
jtemple said:
Here's a breakdown of the OEM parts you need and their prices.

The Oxygen Sensor Connector contains a jumper inside it with a resistor. I'm not sure of the resistor value.

Personally, the cost savings isn't worth the hassle for me. I just bought the parts instead.

Oxygen Sensor Plug, P/N 8000A7724, $22.50

Gasket, O2 Sensor Plug, P/N 8000A7749, $1.25

Oxygen Sensor Connector, P/N 8000A6750, $16.95
Click to expand...

Exact info I was looking for.
 
I did the DIY route on my 610:

Radio Shack pack of resistors $.99
Oil drain plug from Napa $2.99

I already had the electrical tape to keep the resistor in place.
 
Bike is a SMS630 and I want to do the Lambda delete.

I've got the block off plug for the exhaust. What parts would I need to make my own plug to replace the Lambda sensor plug?
Click to expand...

DC, the resistor size you need is a 2.2k ohm (2200 ohm) .25watt.



Power on regardless
biggrin.gif
 
jtemple said:
I did mine just by installing the parts. You're probably talking about some iBeat tweaks. My dealer said they would help, but weren't necessary.
Click to expand...

I did the same thing with o.k. results but my bike never ran "correctly". I just completed my tune up with a FI tuner and I cannot believe the difference. Stay tuned for my thread on tuning my SM 630.
 
husky666 said:
I did the same thing with o.k. results but my bike never ran "correctly". I just completed my tune up with a FI tuner and I cannot believe the difference. Stay tuned for my thread on tuning my SM 630.
Click to expand...
What FI tuner? iBeat? Did you do it yourself? I don't have a dealer anywhere nearby. Whatever I do, I'm on my own.
 
I added the 2.2k ohm resistor the other day to test out what the difference was....wow, the bike is so much smoother and stronger everywhere.

After I picked it up from the dealer after the first service (where they told me they would take it out of "break in mode"...probably just a way to get me to do my first service there) I was coming back and was pretty disappointed with the pickup when on the highway and wanting to speed up from around 90km to 110km and it would just choke.
I figured I have nothing to lose trying the PU mod. After doing it I am amazed at how much better it picks up.

My only concern is that the power increase makes me wonder if it is going to be doing anything to the longevity of the engine, I guess I just can't believe the difference in the feel of the bike.
 
For what its worth, I used the same power up components (those mentioned by Jtemple) that were installed in my 2008 TE510 directly to my 2011 TE630 before I ever started it from the dealer and it runs perfect. In addition, on 630 USA models you must remove the plastic air restrictor stuck behind the foam air cleaner. IMO waiting till its broke in only harms the engine by running it excessively lean during the phase when the engine easily builds heat.
 
Fast1 said:
In addition, on 630 USA models you must remove the plastic air restrictor stuck behind the foam air cleaner. IMO waiting till its broke in only harms the engine by running it excessively lean during the phase when the engine easily builds heat.
Click to expand...
I completely agree.
 
jtemple said:
I completely agree.
Click to expand...

Took out the airbox restrictor tonight, do you guys think that when offroading through water this would help in keeping out the water at all? If not, is/was there any purpose to this?

Fast1, you mentioned that in the USA models you need to remove this....Do they not have this plate in the Aus, EU models?
 
lowpr0fi1e said:
Took out the airbox restrictor tonight, do you guys think that when offroading through water this would help in keeping out the water at all? If not, is/was there any purpose to this?
Click to expand...
Emissions is my guess. It probably cuts down intake noise and slows airflow to reduce exhaust emissions.
 
lowpr0fi1e said:
Took out the airbox restrictor tonight, do you guys think that when offroading through water this would help in keeping out the water at all? If not, is/was there any purpose to this?

Fast1, you mentioned that in the USA models you need to remove this....Do they not have this plate in the Aus, EU models?
Click to expand...

For clarity, I would only recommend removing this (air box restrictor) while installing the power up components that richen the fuel metering. If you have not installed the power up components leave the air restrictor in place.
 
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