OK, so I overcame my intuition and responded to Dirt Rider Mag's request for Wr 300 tweaks. Here's my response...
Just got the Sept. issue and read the Husky 300 article. You asked for owner recommended tweaks so I thought I'd offer a few of my own. But first, I'll offer my opinion about your praise for the KTM 300. I've ridden the KTM 300 numerous times as two of my riding buddies own them. BOTH of my friends have removed E-start from their bikes due to the common problem of the starter hardware self-destructing after it is used more than a few times! It's a well-known issue. You only need to go to KTMTalk forum to validate the fact that the E-start on the KTM 300 is DISMAL at best. In light of the KTM E-start debacle, I find it hard to believe that anyone in the media would use E-start as a criteria for praising KTM 300's.
The Husky 300 will suck the orange plastic off the KTM at WOT (I think you acknowledged that in the article but it was open for interpretation).
I agree with your assessment of the stiff clutch. It's cable and it's got a harder pull than most hydraulics. Point taken.
I also agree with your vibration comments. Although, after many hours of "bonding" with my machine I have grown to accept it as a tolerable trait... A trait that is MUCH overcome by the sensation of sucking orange plastic off KTM's at WOT.
OK... then there's my past experience with KTM's I've owned (and raced) within the past two years. '08 144 SX with melting pistons (see KTMTalk) and '08 KTM 250 SXF's with exploding connecting rods (see KTM's list of factory recalls)....
Whew!
Now for the Husky tweaks:
The "stumpy" kick starter is vastly improved by moving it forward (clockwise) one or two splines till it leans forward about like this (yes, it will rest on the pipe):
Once the kicker is in this position, you can adjust your kicking "style" to a more backward (horizontal) motion by positioning yourself in a more forward (chest over the handlebars) position.
It also helps to advance the piston to TDC prior to kicking. My bike starts in one or two kicks using this method hot or cold, every time. Nice when compared to the 15 to 20 kicks it took to get my
KTM 250 SXF and Honda CRF 250R fired. Compared to those "cranky crankers", the WR 300's "stumpy" kicker is a GODSEND!
The stock jetting on my bike was a bit rich off-idle and through mid. I solved this by changing the pilot from a 35 to a 32.5 and dropping the stock needle one clip (one clip leaner). Obviously, like all brands,
jetting is going to be dependent on your conditions.
I'm still trying to figure out your comments about the brakes. Must be the fact that you guys measure everything in terms of "balls to the wall" "hell bent for leather" extreme conditions. I can understand that.
The brakes on my 300 are perfect for my style of riding, but it also seems obvious that some of your brake issues were due to oil on the front rotor due to a leaking fork seal... a phenomenon I've NEVER seen
mentioned in the Husky forums I visit daily. You must have gotten a test mule from a previously abusive magazine test staff, or a rare new Husky with a factory defect.
The suspension settings seem to be a matter of personal preference. I've got the Zokes and the Sachs dialed out a few clicks softer than the stock settings of both compression and rebound. The Sachs
fast damp (large red knob) is set all the way out (stock). These settings serve my 5' 9.5", 190 lb body well for tight single trails as well as wide open fire roads.
Thanks for giving Husqvarna the attention it deserves.
Regards,
Krieg