• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Deja vu. WRK250 back to how it was in 1999

CastorCalogne

CastorCalogne

Husqvarna
B Class
1989 WRK250PITA

After spending many hours searching the interwebs for parts and many all nighters communicating and hanging out for positive replies, I've made some good progress.

Have to give a few shout outs:
1- Andy at HVA-Factory for having some rare spares to future proof my bike and for being great to deal with.
2- R&D Husqvarna Australia for having a NOS rubber inlet boot! Stefan was as surprised as I was that it was still sitting there collecting dust!
3- Andre at Enduroklassiker for plastics.
4- EBay for the little crap things like radiator silent rubber mounts.
5- John at Sale Honda for general aftermarket and consumables and customer service.
6- Pavel at wemoto Aus and Adam at JT UK for sprockets. Current Afam and JT importers couldn't be bothered with my part numbers.
7- Massive shout out to Ron X suspension in Traralgon Victoria. He had a pair of adjustable WP4054 forks he bought new in 1990 that saw a 6 day event on a CR500R only. Fitted my axle clamps and serviced the forks seals, oil and fitted my springs. Also tested my shock which is gtg. No extra charge ! He gave me this deal alot cheaper than rebuilding my old well used set !

On the hunt now for expansion chambers. OEM part # is c-h-59100.

As others from Aus will know, parts here aren't as readily available for old smokers like this. Postage kills bargains overseas!

Thread is worthless without pics right?

Might as well start with the blank canvas.

Before (7 years in a barn collecting rat shit and dust)
IMG_20150819_110733637.jpg

Today decided why go half arsed now. _20150919_220856.JPG
 
Hey Shawbagga, where do I start. I rebuilt this bike in 1999 mechanically. Lathed up all new wearing bushes plus spares ;) allllllll new bearings inside n out. Engine freshen up. Metalic ceramic coated piston and chamber. Stripped and powder coated. Sweeeeeeeet ! Brap !

Then crunch fcukitkickstart-idler-gearshaft-pos design !!! The idler gear shaft on the pre mid 90's is a poor design. Held into about a 6mm wall of cast ally by a pussy bolt. The gear loosely rides on a little roller bearing...gear sits off center/line, kick it over and idler gear pushes the clutch basket cog but she ain't turning shit!

Nope, just snaps some case away. Soooo lucky me had aircraft welders, machinists and NDI techs on hand (for beer) and modified it. Shaft still doesn't butt into outer casing but a larger SS interference fit sleave onto the new shaft, dry ice and a heat gun later seated into freshly ally solid welded in casing CNC machined in center...done deal. Larger load bearing surface. No more cracked case. GTG!

Until in year 2008 I over torqued my front axle clamps and hit a grass covered ditch in the middle of a paddock. Almost cried. Parked her in the shed until a month ago I got the urge to buy a Honda CR500 to road register. I'm still keen on the CR but remembered the dirty old biatch in the shed. Now my hating on the WRK has turned to an addiction!

I think I will just lay all the NOS parts I've sourced on the floor for a group photo. It's been a mission and cost 1/3 of a liver on www.ebodybay.com but worth it.

Here's today's work: removed the old rubber. 1994 Mefo Barrum rear aged hard like parmesan cheese!

Good old WD40 and 85kg on one heel bead breaker job. The rim was corroded (chalky). Blended all that out and treated it. Its my neck so will use them (no one else rides this bike). Here's the fugly mess I found

IMG_20150922_131712332.jpg

Sometimes I refuse to pay ripoff merchant prices for parts so I made my chain sliders out of agricultural poly pipe from a cardboard mock up and a dremel. Gtg.IMG_20150824_200758680.jpg IMG_20150824_204806567_HDR.jpg

Today I enlarged the hole in the rear brake lever to take a 15mm OD bearing since the 14mm is an odd size. Bought x2 little sealed bearings from a pushbike shop to sit side by side to do the job.

Trials and tribulations of rebuilding I guess. No way I'm looking for NOS original bearings from OS :p

Should have frame in to painter after blasting tomorrow. Going 2pac this time. I can touch it up myself in future.

Beer O'Clock !
 
The only parts I can think of needing now are new nuts n bolts in a few places, braided front brake line soon. Waiting on two new Pirelli Scorpion Pro's, some bearings, rear sprockets and front brake pads.

Everything else is here.
 
For sure OMGewd & NCSTEVE. That's the plan. Also sort of like my training wheels before buying anything new and all fancy with a disc rear brake :D

I haven't ridden much since 2001 so getting some style back will a bit of work.

*Update: Good and bad news.

Front rim is cracked and both have deep intergranular corrosion. Spokes were less than safe also. F%@# was my first thought, then mmmm new rims and powder coated hubs to go with the new Pirellis and Tubliss set up!

One thing I doubt this site will do is painfully remind me of dollars vs sense :D To anyone who thinks I should've just bought a 15+ years newer bike... no shit Sherlock!
I'm joking but you would be correct. I'm not counting $ just how many days I have left to try n get it going for Stratford first weekend of October.

Frame is at local painters for 2pac now.
Engine is getting soda blasted for me to surface finish.
Local sign writers are making my decals.

Doubt I'll finish on time but will give it a crack.

I am keen to get to all Vinduro meets but not yet in the know. One thing I've learnt is the majority seem to be for pre 1985 bikes. I thought the point was to just get out and ride our old clunkers for fun. So I may just end up trail riding here in Gippsland mostly.

_20150923_191413.JPG _20150923_191510.JPG
 

Attachments

  • _20150923_191413.JPG
    _20150923_191413.JPG
    172.5 KB · Views: 0
Cheers ohmygewd. I spoke to the VERI president and a few others around. I'm welcome to ride sweep on the lame strict pre 85 days. I'm going to just rock up to all more to meet n greet. Surely no one will care if I join in, buy their hamburgers-beer-raffle tickets and don't act like a dick?
I'd be happy to donate a live deer to raffle off. I just want to ride and know that if I snap myself someone will scrape me up off the deck :D it will happen.

I've sent my wheels to John Titman (great last name for school days ha-ha).

Decided to just get new silver Takasago Excel rims, powder coat my hubs and brake plate, new spokes made up. They will also drill the holes to suit the Neutech Tubliss setup.

I saw new 2nd hand black rims going for $129 ea and was tempted but prefer silver. Just waiting on the quote call that means selling another 10 fallow deer or a cow :p

* Might as well put it out there: I have a deer farm and have plenty to sell for meat... or trophy if people are lazy ;) Either I butcher or you byo rifle and do it yourself. PM if interested.
Not expensive.

I usually trade prime young meet deer for lambs, tyres, work, tools, car parts or what ever favours I need. No I don't accept hand shandies !
 
Castor, your like an old duck trying to be a young tart...your bike is a 26yo, might have sat around for 15years doing sweet FA but she still looked better than some bikes that l have seen which are 15yo's!!!
 
ohmygewd said:
Castor, your like an old duck trying to be a young tart...your bike is a 26yo, might have sat around for 15years doing sweet FA but she still looked better than some bikes that l have seen which are 15yo's!!!
Click to expand...

Ducky footy knee, ducky back, ducky shoulder...loosing my feathers. When I was a spring chicken I chased old ducks. Damn you may be right.

Not buying a sports car just yet.

*For anyone who has a WRK that wants the rad shroud decals I'm getting some made up. If they turn out OK I'll make sure I get the electronic file. You can have any of your sticker makers knock out copies from it.
 
Tips on exhaust neck dent removal? Can they be blown out using air pressure and heat also or is the metal too thick in a tight radius to do it that way?

Would tack welding a rod to slide hammer it out + heat be better?

Seen heaps of examples online of usual chamber dent removal but the neck not so common I guess.

_20151002_233306.JPG IMG_20151002_233118896.jpg
 
fella does mine(in WA however) for $150 & they come up a treat. works look too(blue seams). if ya get stuck & cant find anyone to fix it or cant do yaself send it to him. he does perform miracles;)
 
Personally tackking a slide hammer on to remove dents is a bad idea if you manage to get a good tack you could split the metal hamnering it out, then if thats gone well you have to grind your tack off without damaging your pipe.

Not the easiest especially round that goose neck, the pressure and heat method works well but for the neck i would only use oxyacetylene all others arent hot enough.
 
Looks like there is some surface rust under the paint. You might wanna strip it off and make sure the integrity of the metal is there before going much further.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top