• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

De-catting a std 09 610

BiG DoM said:
Going good. I have just to do a few spot welds and then button it all up.

I have a few observation regarding Blazes very good illustrated tutorial on this - It is best to cut the end piece at the second ridge (see pic) in order to release the perforated cap and then the steel wool just pulls out, rather than trying to cut into it etc to extract the crap first (I started this way...)! One could probably do this cut straight off.

I also found an internal pipe reducer of perfect size in a Remus endpiece/baffle removed from a Hexicone. I have used this in the core instead of a 'funnel' to locate and terminate the end-cap. This also allows for it to be angled a bit to accomodate the angle of the exit pipe in the end-cap.

I have also circumcised 90mm in length ... this makes it about the same length as the LVX3 and also pulls it back from the indicators (which are probably going to go anyway as have one of those nice integrated units like yours from Schlowy).

Will post pics when all done.View attachment 12928View attachment 12929View attachment 12930View attachment 12931View attachment 12932
Click to expand...

Looks like you having FUN Dom -- great stuff -------
 
I thought about shortening them too and then decided to keep it simple and just reassemble. Looks good though. You'll love it.
 
Just put the pipe on - looks great and sounds fantastic, if slightly on the loud side :rolleyes: The decatted pipe weighed in at just over 2 kg (5lb) and the gutted internals weighed 1.9kg (4lb) - significant weight loss. Now to do the PU and test.
 
Thanks - got that link bookmarked already :D - also got two of the resistors (one spare)... I also have a lamda plug (in fact two) that came with some BMW Remus headers which should work as I am sure are standard size. I have also sourced a JD Jetting PC in new condition for good price ... so all coming together. :applause:

alanB said:
Nice!

Here's a link of a DIY PU job http://www.supermotojunkie.com/show...ower-Up-Kit-Lambda-Bypass-Fuel-Injected-610SM

Apparently the brass plug for the lambda sensor is the same as a sump plug from some car (read that some where, cant remember which car), if you are looking for one.

Look forward to seeing some photo's and your assesment of the difference!
Click to expand...
 
Blazes said:
The Rest --------
Break out tail piece inner by using a sharp screwdriver or chissel -- after you have cut it to the sizes shown on the picture...........





Materials used --about 30 dollars mostly labour --sounds awesome and not to loud and looks original as the standard
Hope this could help those who want to tackle it themselves ---not that difficult at all --just need to follow the steps and you can do it in a few hours --
Click to expand...

I know it's old but imageshack is crapped and pics are gone, is it possible to reupload;

Thank you.
 
Looks like his latest posts are from June this year, so maybe he still has them.
If you continue through the thread there is more description and more photos, I'm pretty sure mine are still up.

This is an easy mod that pays huge dividends in flow and temp, nice mellow sound. I'm still running my dual cans with the gun-sight end caps - love 'em!

Let us know if you need more help with it.


EDIT:
CJBROWN said:
Found it here: http://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/1137/index.html
They also sell on ebay. $13.95 per foot, stainless perf pipe.
Click to expand...

Looks like this link still works too. Was great stuff to work with.
I just folded the ends in around the end pieces, wrapped in fiberglass matt and wired, and reassembled by riveting it together. 7K miles and working just great.
 
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